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shootershowers
Oct 16, 2006, 7:04 PM
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Registered: Jul 4, 2006
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I'm heading down to the Red for the first time this weekend for an impromptu trip with some sport climbing buddies of mine (they were my friends before they became sport climbers).
anybody have any cool suggestions for trad lines in the 5.7 to 5.10a range. don't be afraid to send more suggestions on the 5.7 end of that seeing as i've only sent one 5.10a on trad.
thanks in advance for any replies.
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crankmas
Oct 16, 2006, 7:23 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2004
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Long Wall, Fortress, Wall of Denial, Purple Valley plus numerous others, you won't regret bringing a rack to the Red. Go to redriverclimbing.com for an excellent online guide or purchase the new hardcopy guide at the local businesses on arrival
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gothcopter
Oct 16, 2006, 8:47 PM
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I thought Shock and Awe (5.8) at Muir Valley was pretty fun. If you go there, be sure to fill out a release from their website and check out the rules and such.
I never got a chance to climb it, but Roadside Attraction (5.7) at Roadside Crag looked pretty sweet, and seems to be well-liked. Oh yeah, and I think there might be some sport routes at the Red, too...
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charley
Oct 16, 2006, 9:16 PM
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There is a red haired teacher that climbs at kendall cliffs, who told me there is a lot of moderate trad there. She didn't tell me the route names. If you go to redriverclimbing.com as suggested you can find the names of routes that are trad in the grades you want.
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unreleasedenergy
Oct 16, 2006, 9:24 PM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2006
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Jungle beat 5.9+ is a must climb, its at Military wall,
Foxfire 5.7 is also a must do, its at Eagle buttress
both are fantastic
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whiskeybullets
Oct 17, 2006, 12:18 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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A warning, many five star trad lines at the Red are adventure style. I prefer cragging, so my list is biased towards more accessible and clean climbs.
Rock Wars 10a @ Longwall
Autumn 9 @ Longwall
The Shining 8 @ Global Village
Casual Viewing 7 @ at Global Village
Five Finger Discount 8 @ Roadside
Road Side Attraction 7 @ Roadside
Crusing Lane 10a @ Funk Rock
Right Of Passage 9 @ Funk Rock
Headstone Surfer 10a/b @ Funk Rock
Arachnid 8 @ Tower Rock
Africa 8 @ Tower Rock
Bed time for Bonzo 6 @ Fortress
Party Time 8 @ Fortress
Road Side Attraction, Bed Time for Bonzo (2nd Pitch/ View from the Top) and Arachnid are my three personal favorite trad climbs (from the previous list) in the Red with The Shining a close fourth. Although The Shining is really really short (~35ft), which bothers many people.
The RedRiverClimbing.com website has a search-able route database that has fields for filtering climbs by both grade and "star quality". That's likely your best ticket to finding good lines you want to climb.
Oh, the best easy trad area is the Fortress. The best unobstructed view in the red is from Into The Purple Valley. The best climb I've been on in the Red is Crack Attack, which is 9+, but it's my project, so I left it off the list so you won't be on it when I go back to work it this weekend :wink: .
Regarding a previous post, Jungle Beat is an adventure climb that I would not reccomend if you are climbing with partners inexperienced in trad climbing (read traverses and hanging gear belays). It takes about 5 hours to do three pitches. Foxfire is better, but still adventure climbing. That being said, they are Five star multipitch (3 each i think) trad climbs that many locals love.
-Matt
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shootershowers
Oct 17, 2006, 11:40 PM
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Registered: Jul 4, 2006
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AWESOME response guys, thanks a lot!
Keep em comming.
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bootlegger
Oct 18, 2006, 12:40 AM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2005
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Lots and lots and lots of trad in the Red. Echoing some of the above, but maybe in a little different way:
If you want easy approach and lots of good sport climbing also, go to Roadside Crag and do Roadside Attraction (2-pitch 5.7), Five Finger Discount (a harder than it looks 5.8 single pitch) and Motha (a 5.6 pocket style single pitch). These are all within about 50 ft of each other. Then move on to all sorts of sport routes to the right of there.
For clean, moderate trad, go to Fortress Wall. Do Party Time (2 pitch 5.7) and Bedtime for Bonzo (2-pitch 5.6) for great views at the top. Snake is a nice 5.8 single pitch there, and Blue Runner is a nice 5.9 single pitch (but be solid at 5.9, the crux is hard to protect from hitting a ledge if you fall). Nothing but trad at Fortress, and lots of it. The harder stuff is on the "second tier" above the first big ledge system. Wear a brain bucket -lots of loose rock on that ledge system.
If you go to Tower Rock to do Arachnid (5.8) and Africa (5.9), both classics, take the time also to do Caver's route. Very easy (5.4 or so), 4 pitches to handle rope drag, very runout, all chimney (except for the start and the "cave" you have to get down on your belly and wiggle through), and a fabulous topout view. Nothing at Tower Rock but trad routes.
For a little more "adventure", try Lower Small Wall. Good Tang (a 5.7 2 or 3 pitch that climbs like a 5.8 with two overhangs to navigate) is one of the best I've been on and the topout is fabulous. Dicey at Best (5.8+, most people do the first pitch only) is a classic but a sandbag - watch out. Caterpillar Crack/Double Caves Crack is another 5.6 type 2 or 3 pitch route to the top. Nothing at Lower Small but trad routes.
I haven't done Rock Wars or Autumn at Long Wall, but they're known as classics.
Roadside Attraction, Party Time, Good Tang and Bedtime for Bonzo are some of my favorite routes in the Red.
The online guide, redriverclimbing.com, is superb. Have fun!!
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tradrenn
Oct 18, 2006, 1:43 AM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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:lol:
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