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Weird quick-draw travel on lead
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aelita


Sep 9, 2002, 11:03 AM
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Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 123

Weird quick-draw travel on lead
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I am not sure if I can explain this adequatly, but I am puzzled, help!
I was leading a route that was pretty tough for me yesterday, struggling almost bolt-to-bolt. All the quickdraws were already on the route left by my friend who led it first. So I clipped the third draw, rested a bit on the small ledge and headed for the crux, had some problems and hung on the draw for a couple of minutes. Finally I figured the move out got up to the next draw and clipped, moved fast through this section (it was pumpy), clipped the next draw and asked my partner to take. Then after the rest went through the second minor crux and finished the climb... hooked into the anchors and looked down... now for the puzzle -

the third bolt was empty - no draw on it.
the forth bolt had... two draws - one clipped through the bolt with rope going through it, and one sitting on the rope, stopped by the draw from falling down... essentially the draw from the third bolt was hanging on the draw and the forth bolt as if it was clipped to the rop and then dropped from above!

I was going through the crux when I clipped the rope through the draw on the fourth bolt. I KNOW I clipped the third bolt - I hung on it. I was moving relatively fast, but the moves were precarious and I think I would have felt it if the rope got any weird unexpected tension on it (I WOULD have fallen).

Theoretically, this only makes sense if I z-clipped the fourth bolt and then, somehow, magically, the quickdraw on the third bolt got unclipped from the bolt,so it ended up above the fourth bolt when my belayer picked up slack... All equipment was intact.

How could this happened? anyone experienced this before?

Thanks!

[Edited when I'd worked out I must have z-clipped... stil confused though ]

[ This Message was edited by: aelita on 2002-09-09 11:25 ]


jt512


Sep 9, 2002, 11:51 AM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
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Weird quick-draw travel on lead [In reply to]
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When you hung from the third bolted, you unclipped from the draw from the bolt (I've inadvertantly done this myself). Thus, it is a good thing you didn't fall before clipping the fourth bolt! That draw remained clipped to your rope, you clipped the fourth bolt with a different draw, and clipped your rope into the draw below the draw that you dragged up with you from the third bolt. Thus when you climbed above the fourth bolt the draw that was originally on the third bolt remained clipped to the rope above the draw on the fourth bolt.

-Jay


aelita


Sep 9, 2002, 12:03 PM
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Weird quick-draw travel on lead [In reply to]
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Thanks Jay... that actually makes a lot more sense... although I am not sure which scenario is scaring me more right now...


overlord


Sep 9, 2002, 12:10 PM
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Weird quick-draw travel on lead [In reply to]
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what do you mean you hung on the draw. did your belayer hold you by rope or did you clip the draw to your belay loop???? if it was the secont, jay is probably right. man dont do it again!!

CLIMB ON


aelita


Sep 9, 2002, 12:27 PM
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uhhh I meant my belayer took and I hung on the rope, not the draw itself, sorry for being unclear. Jay has to be right though, otherwise its some kind of voodoo magic, which I sure as hell don't want as part of my leading routes


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