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microbarn


Oct 19, 2006, 12:01 PM
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Hangboard Training
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There is an insane number of people that ask about hangboard workouts, but an amazingly small amount of profitable discussion that I can find. I would like to group everything I did find into one place. After searching for a while here is my abbreviated summary. I hope that it helps others and is useful. I tried to give all the opinions that I found on topic.

In every thread and topic people have cautioned about overuse of the hangboard. Many people are of the opinion that they should be called injuryboards instead of hangboards. Pretty much everyone said to warm up and cool down atleast 10 minutes before and after. Some people suggested more is better. I would like to add this link from nicros on injury prevention:
http://www.nicros.com/...iding%20injury.shtml

Metolius was the most helpful website overall:
Basic uses for some common holds
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...20Brochure%20Std.pdf
General training guide: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...ingguidesgeneral.htm
three board specific workouts that could be modified:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...-pureforce-train.htm
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...-simulator-train.htm
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto-trainrockring.htm
Their 10 minute guide:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto-10min.htm
advanced training guide:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto-advancedrr.htm

8a.nu had a hard to find hangboard workout that many recommend
http://www.8a.nu/...s/hangboarding.shtml
It is very specific without a lot of talk about why. So, it may be harder to figure out what to change for your needs.

Horst as always is a good source for training information:
http://www.nicros.com/...ard_training_1.shtml

A great article that mentions some hangboard workouts done by rockprodigy is here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...es/index.php?id=2140

A collection of recommendations from various posters and various threads follows. (Yes, this is similar to the tradgirl.com layout.) I tried to not take them out of context. I also did not put them in any kind of order. If you are curious about the context, all the comments came from these threads:
http://rockclimbing.com/...&topic_view=&start=0
http://rockclimbing.com/....php?p=941284#941284
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...topic=10217&forum=36
http://rockclimbing.com/....php?p=263438#263438
http://rockclimbing.com/....php?p=909819#909819
http://rockclimbing.com/...hp?p=1226525#1226525
http://rockclimbing.com/...hp?p=1011072#1011072


In reply to:
once you're down to the smaller holds...
* start doing all the exercises while wearing your rack, if you dont have a rack, buy some cheapo 5lb weights and use a draw to clip them to your hareness.
* start moving between all the holds, like walk down the holds to the small ones then walk up.
* make tiny dynos up each set of holds
* one handed pullups?
* can you make tiny one handed dynos between all the holds?

and the worst thing evar: strap tiny weights to your feet for l-hangs! eek
In reply to:
try turning around slowly... that is, you let go one hand, turn around slowly, you grab below the hand which is already grabbing and change the top hand to the other side, making a 180... also, try grabing the smallest slopper-pockets-whatever and resist your weight as long as you can.
In reply to:
DO NOT:
-use weights
-use a crimp grip on anything
-use mono or shallow 2 finger pockets
EVER!!

you will be just ASKING for an injury. hangboard routines are tough enough on ur body as is.

my 2 sugestions:

1)do campus-dynos between different holds. basically campus, but with both hands at once. gets really hard if u have pinches and pockets.

2)lock off pullups - pull up half way, lock off for 3 seconds, pull up all the way, lock off 3 sec, down half way, lock off 3 sec, hang 3 sec, repeat.

practicing front levers and leg raises helps core body tension.
In reply to:
and i have exactly opposite advice to offer than xanx:

do NOT campus or do any types of moves on hangboard. why do you think its called HANGboard??? because its desogned for hanging not campusing. CAMPUS board is for campusing. holds on a hangboard are either to small to grip while dynoing with fuul weight or to negative. in the former case you risk tearing tendons, in the latter slipping off the holds, tearing skin and really dirtaing the board.

and YES, you can add weight, but wait a bit first, make a workout and add a bit of weight when you feel the workout is no longer effective. you can also reduce weight by means of rubber bands or counterweight/pulley system if you think your workload is too big (like when training for one arm pullup).

negative reps and pullups alsp work.
In reply to:
I have to agree with Overlord, xanx has no clue what he's talking about. First thing he says is not to use extra weight, crimps or shallow pockets because it'll lead to injury... then goes on to say to start campusing instead. Campusing will lead to injury long before doing crimps or using weights ever will.

Adding weight is the standard way to increase strength. Once you reach a maximum number of reps or can hang for a certain amount of time the only way to improve is to increase the reps/time OR add weight.

Xanx, make sure you're not talking out of your a$$ when you try to give advice.
You can always work toward a front lever.
In reply to:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=5006

this is a one arm lever.

front lever is basicly the same, just with both hands on the support, body horizontal. watch some gymnast doing it on the rings, or on single bar.
In reply to:
I can't tell you how many people I've heard of, who've hurt themselves on a hangboard (aka the injuryboard). Its also the most useless training instrument outside of grip exercisers for actually improving your climbing.

The only people who I can see gaining any sort of benefit from an injuryboard are those you meet all three of the following criterion.

1) You have no local climbable rock.
2) You have no local climbing gym or access to a woodie.
3) You have been climbing long enough (several years) to know what sort of excercises will cause you injury.

Ask for a gym membership for Christmas instead.
In reply to:
I've got a basic hangboard from Franklyn, does the job nicely and was only $49 Canadian (MEC all the way!). Here's our usual workout:



1) Stretch stretch stretch!

2) Pull ups on slopers, 5-10

3) Leg raises, get's hands warm and awesome stomach workout 10 reps, 2-3 sets

4) One arm dead hangs, sloper, timed

5) One arm dead hangs, "middle sloper", it's not as slopey, has a groove, timed

6) Two arm dead hangs from side pinches, timed

7) Three finger pocket dead hangs, with diving belt (20lbs), timed

Two finger pocket dead hangs, timed

9) Shallow two finger pocket, dead hangs, timed

10) More pull ups...and more stretching



Works nicely, keep a record of your workouts and you can have times to beat. Great working out with a partner though, really pushes you. I've noticed my contact strength and finger grip growing pretty fast when I do this regularly.

Mike...

In reply to:
i usually go on the board for bout 45 mins at a time. first i do my warm up work out:

1) 10 second hang on slopers

2) 5 pull ups on jugs

3) 30 second dead hang on medium edges

4) 15 second bent arm hang on medium edges

5) 15 second l-hang from jugs

6) 3 offset pull ups, jug and 2 finger pocket (both sides)

7) 10 pull ups on 3 finger pockets

15 second dead hang on deep 2 finger pockets

9) 2 minute hang on large edges

10) 20 second dead hang on small edges

11) pull ups to failure on jugs



i do that, then a little break and onto my other schedule:

1) 6 pull ups on jugs

2) 45 second dead hang on medium edges

3) 30 second dead hang on slopers

4) 5 pull ups on large edges

5) 10 offset pull ups on jug and small edges (both sides)

6) 45 second dead hang on medium 2 finger pockets

7) 30 second dead hang on small edges

10 pull ups on 3 finger pockets

9) 20 second L hang from 2 finger pockets

10) pull ups to failure on jugs and 3 finger pocket.

5 minute break, than to both plans again.
In reply to:
Uh...........Doing 300+ pull ups a week is not going to help your contact stregnth that much if at all. It will however help your shoulders. I usually don't really do that many pull ups on my hangboard. They call it a hangboard for a reason sucka'



Try these to get ya pumped. You can't do this but a few times a week, or at least I can't cause I get blown and get all freaked out about popping a tendon or something. Nothing like getting a climbing injury by doing something other than climbing.



If you are a beginner I would do this work out and you pretty much need to follw it to the minute.



* 5 min sequence

Min Type of hold Exercise Sec/Rep

1 Jug Hanging 15 sec

2 Medium Edge Hanging 8 sec

3 Jug Pull-up 6 rep

4 Medium Edge Hanging 8 sec

5 Small Edge Hanging 6 sec



8 min sequence

Min Type of hold Exercise Sec/Rep

1 Jug Hanging 15-20 sec

2 Jug Pull-up 6 rep

3 Medium Edge Pull-up 4 rep

4 Medium Edge Hanging 15 sec

5 Rest Rest Rest

6 Medium Edge Hanging 15 sec

7 Small Edge Hanging 8 sec

8 Medium Edge Hanging As long as

possible



These are intermediate. I think these are the most effective exercises and times/sequences. The idea in the following sequences are to push your body to expect certain prolonged stress and begin to learn, what I call the "pump tolerance." First, if you are able to hold yourself on a edge, with no feet, for a period of time, then when all the wall you can hold that same edge with better control and hold it much easier. The second is to learn what a pump tolerance. The idea behind this is to get the worst pump you can possible get. When at the wall and you get a okay pump, you will understand there are worst pumps and you might actually stop complaining and continue climbing. Don't start these roght off or you could do some serious damage.

*New Words: Drops-Pull-up as fast as possible, launch one hand up into the air and then drop back down. When I say three each, do three Drops per arm Negs-Do a pull-up as fast as possible, and then slowly go down. Take at least 10 seconds to go down.

10 min sequence

Min Type of hold Exercise Sec/Rep

1 Jug Hanging 30 sec

2 Medium Edge Pull-up 6 rep

3 Small Edge Hanging 12 sec

4 Pocket Pull-up 6 rep

5 Medium Edge Hanging 20 sec

6 Medium Edge Hanging 20 sec

7 Jug Pull-up 10 rep

8 Small Edge Hanging 12 rep

9 Medium Edge Hanging 18 rep

10 Small Edge Hanging As long as

possible

15 min sequence

Min Type of hold Exercise Sec/Rep

1 Jug Drops 5 rep

2 Medium Edge Drops 2 rep

3 Small Edge Negs 5 rep

4 Pocket Pull-up 5 rep

5 Medium Edge Hanging 20 sec

6 Jug Pull-up 10 rep

7 Medium Edge Hanging 20 sec

8 Small Edge Hanging 20 sec

9 Medium Edge Pull-up 5 rep

10 Jug Hanging 40 sec

11 Medium Edge Hanging 25 sec

12 Medium Edge Hanging 25 sec

13 Small Edge Pull-up 5 rep

14 Small Edge Hanging 20 sec

15 Jug Hanging 1 min



To end these I usually hang on the smallest hold untill I am totally blasted.

If these don't get you pumped then I have the 20 and 30 sequences if you want them but I can only do those about once a week maybe twice. If you need the long ones chances are you don't really need a hangboard or you a freak.

GET RIPPED



well my little lists up there didn't really come out as expected. The numbers represent the "minute" in the exercise sequence. if you are on #4, then it is the 4th minute in a 5 10 or 15 workout. directly following that it the type of hold to use (i.e. jug, crimp, whatever) and following that is the exercise and it's duration or reps. If you are on #5 and it has five reps the you do the reps and us the rest of the minute to rest and start the next exercise on the follwing minute, get it. It helps to have a stopwatch taped to the wall or an oven timer around to keep accurate time.
In reply to:
well, i do series of hanging on holds with opposing weight, so i only ose about 50-60% of my max strenght. then do 12-16 series of 50sec hanging with 50sec rest. itll blast your foreams.
In reply to:
Try this:

-Do a pullup

-Lower to about 30 degrees

-Hold for 7 Seconds

-Lower the rest of the way

-Do a pullup

-Lower to 90 degrees

-Hold for 7 seconds

-Lower the rest of the way

-Do a pull up

-Lower to 120 degrees

-Hold for 7 seconds

-Lower the rest of the way

Repeat. Keep doing this until you are satisfied or until you can't anymore.

Remember to lower slowly as it is not the pull up that builds strength but the lowering

Also go to the metolius website i believe they might have some hangboard training info there. Peace
In reply to:
In reply to:
FRENCHIES
start hanging on something easy
step 1: pull all the way up and lock off hold for 5 seconds
step 2: come all the way back down then pull half way up and hold for 5 seconds
step 3: all the way back down and hang for 5 seconds
step 4: repeat

don't do these the day before climbing you'll be burnt out

I was taught to do them this way(same thing, a bit harder I reckon):
1. go all the way up
2. all the way down
3. all the way back up and hold for 5 sec
4. all the way down
5. all the way up
6. back down to a 90 degree and hold for 5 sec
7. all the way down
8. all the way back up
9. down to a 120ish degree angle and hold for 5 seconds
10. and all the way down.
11. Repeat.

Don't do those the day before climbing or you'll be burnt out 8^)
In reply to:
Usually people pick grips and hang on them as long as possible with or without extra weight. Does anybody have any other "systems"?

I myself run in to a wall in three months if I keep doing the above even when changing hang times and adding weights etc. I have a loooong backround in weightlifting so progressive overload is not a stranger to me. Anyway static strentgh training seemed to be a bit of a b----... until:

Last April I started to break a set into smaller peaces. Instead of hanging straight as long as I could I did 5-10 sec hangs with 5-10 pauses as long as I usually could.

I normally make the sessions either strength oriented (shorter hangs with more weight for example 5 x 5 secs x 30 kgs/ 10sec pauses) or more power endurance oriented (longer hangs with shorter pauses for example 5 x 10 secs x 10kgs/5 sec pauses).

I usually do the hangboard (not excactly but just a few wooden rungs) workout 2-4 hours after bouldering. I do around 6-10 sets of hangs. Normally I do one session half crimps only and the next three finger openhanded ones.

This way I have been going progressively without a setback or even a plateau for 8 months what is absolutely great!

So far the best set has been hangs from a 2 cm edge 6 x 5 sec x 30 kgs /5 sec pauses. I weigh 85 kgs (187 lbs) myself.
In reply to:
Hey jto, I generally do hangboard workouts in a similar fashion to yourself. I usually do repeaters i.e. 5 max intensity hangs with 5 sec rest between then a two minute rest before changing holds. I cycle through pinches, 2 finger pockets (all combinations), small edge, med edge, 3 finger pocket. I add as much weight as it takes to fail in less than 10 secs. Once I have gone through all the grip types I rest for approx 10 mins and do it again.

Once I get strong enough I will drop the weight and just do one arm work though, much more climbing specific.

I then usually finish up with some weighted pullups, one arm lock offs and front levers.

I only ever do a max of 2 sessions a week for three weeks before moving on to something else, HIT or campusing. It is much better to change things up regularly so as to stay motivated and shock the body thus increasing the training effect.
In reply to:
interesting. I too sometimes vary the holds from set to set. anyway I seem to get better results when concentrating on only 1-2 hold types a session. this might also prevent me from injuries as I donīt stress the same grip that often.

how many 5sec reps with 5 sec pauses can you do in a row if all are absolute maximums (you couldnīt hang 6 secs)? thatīs a very quick recovery, mate.

I can hang on my basic edge (2cm) about 15 secs with 30kilos but 30 secs in a six rep set. all the reps canīt be absolute maxes at least for me or I burn out in two or three reps.

usually I stop the set when I canīt hang 5 secs anymore. for strength I do 3-8 reps and for hypertrophy and power endurance sometimes as many as 20.

sometimes I do drop set ie. I hang the absolute max with a weight (around 5-15 secs), pause 5-15 secs, hang the max again, pause and maybe one more hang. all this is done with the same weight. example: 10secs x 35kgs --> 7 secs x 35kgs --> 3 secs x 35kgs /all pauses 10 secs.

another similar wold be that I drop the weight too to keep the reps longer. example: 10 secs x 35kgs --> 12 secs x 25kgs --> 10 secs x 15 kgs --> 14 secs x 5kgs/ all pauses 10 secs (enough to rip the weight off).

I could also do the same using different grips ie. 1,5cm edge --> 2cm edge --> 2,5cm edge. or three finger openhand pocket --> big sloper.

those special sets arenīt really power training methods but more like advanced bodybuilding brought to hangboards. I consider those special techniques quite useless for building general strength and power but in my hangboard workouts they really work. the reason might be that my forearms demand more volume done on higher intensity and lactic acid being around more.

to clarify (if someone is a bit confused of the terms I use):
- a rep is a time hanged before letting go of the hold
- a set is the total reps done in a row before a longer pause
- multiple sets make a workout
The Yoosak Workout:
In reply to:
(pronounced YOO-saw)

Picked this one up from a buddy at Perdue Univeristy a couple of years ago, tell me what you think:

All you need is a place to do pull ups (finger board, bar, door jam, where ever).
Do 1 pull up. Drop down and do 2 push ups.
Do 2 pull ups. Drop down and do 4 puch ups.
Do 3 pull ups. Drop down and do 6 push ups.

Basically, increase your pull ups by 1 each time, and follow up with doubling the number of push ups. Do this until you get to 5 pull ups and 10 puch ups, then go back down.

Great cardio, helps stave off the tendonitis by exercising the opposing muscles, and will definately build good arm strength. Helps to do this with a partner and to just keep moving back and forth (one is doing pull ups, the other pushups, then switch immediately).

Good follow up to this is what I have heard called football crunches. You lay on your back and have a partner stand at your head, facing your feet. Grab your partner's ankles (no comments from the peanut gallery!) and raise both legs as if to kick your partner in the chest. The standing partner pushes them back down as hard as they can. You, the person on the ground, attempt to stop your legs from touching the ground as close to the ground as possible and then kick up again. The standing partner can also push the legs together in different directions to work the obliques.

So this until it burns, then switch.

[Edited for spelling]
In reply to:
Basic pyramid scheme.

For a lot of climbers, 5 pullups/10 pushups won't be quite enough.

Experimentation will have to guide you here, but I feel that the max should be between 50% and 80% of the max number of pullups you can crank when fresh. On the "downward" side of the pyramid, each set should get you close to maximum. Play with it till you work out a good set of numbers. Then periodically add 1 or 2.

You can also modify this by staggering the excercises. So set up a few variations, such as pullups and lat rows for "pulling" muscles, and pushups and handstand pushups for "pushing" muscles. Then do the following:

Start with 5 pushup (or 10, whatever) and 1 pullup. Decrease pushups and increase pullups to 1 pushup and 5 pullups. Then switch to handstand pushups and pullups. Decrease pullups and increase h-pushups till you get to 1 pullup and 5 h-stand pushups. Then switch to lat rows.... etc. Continue the rotation until you get back to 5 pushups and 1 pullup.

This will waste you even more effectively than 12oz curls.


themadmilkman


Oct 19, 2006, 12:40 PM
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Great job gathering all that and putting it together. I'll come back and trophy it as soon as I get the chance. :D


overlord


Oct 20, 2006, 10:13 AM
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great sum up, but...

In reply to:
DO NOT:
-use weights
-use a crimp grip on anything
-use mono or shallow 2 finger pockets
EVER!!

you will be just ASKING for an injury. hangboard routines are tough enough on ur body as is.

my 2 sugestions:

1)do campus-dynos between different holds. basically campus, but with both hands at once. gets really hard if u have pinches and pockets.

2)lock off pullups - pull up half way, lock off for 3 seconds, pull up all the way, lock off 3 sec, down half way, lock off 3 sec, hang 3 sec, repeat.

practicing front levers and leg raises helps core body tension.

this is (mostly) a piece of rubbish. clearly the author has no idea what safe use of a hangboard is.

a) weights... you need to use them to increase the workload. if you do it carefully theyre perfectly safe.

b) cripms/monos/shallow pockets... again, if done carefully and when youre strong enough theres nothing wrong with them.

c) campusing/dynoing... THAT is a sure way to get injured on a hangboard. they are designed to be hanged on, not campused (thats what campus boards are for). while it does increase the workload (like adding weight), it is much more difficult to control and you can easily put too much strain on something (again, those holds are ment for hanging on (static positions) and not campusing (dynamic movement)) and we all know where that leads.

well, i posted this before and while it is quoted in the sumup, i just wanted to be sure that no one does anything stupid :P

and i vote for a sticky :wink:


microbarn


Oct 20, 2006, 10:41 AM
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Thanks for the compliments guys. I was hoping this would be useful to others. I went through 108 threads via the search function and found only this much on topic advice.

In reply to:
well, i posted this before and while it is quoted in the sumup, i just wanted to be sure that no one does anything stupid :P

Thanks for posting this, my PERSONAL opinion is that you are correct. I tried to keep my own opinion out of the first post. I just copied all the pertinent arguments without all the junk that happens in so many threads.

I just got a hangboard, and I hope to put some of this information to use. Anybody have any other feedback on some of the routines listed above? Any other training methods?


bill413


Oct 20, 2006, 11:20 AM
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A wonderful compendium. Trophy for your efforts!


overlord


Oct 21, 2006, 12:47 AM
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In reply to:
Thanks for posting this, my PERSONAL opinion is that you are correct. I tried to keep my own opinion out of the first post. I just copied all the pertinent arguments without all the junk that happens in so many threads.

i know, i just wanted to make sure. it wasnt meant as an attack or something. i really like the distilled thread. i think it will be really usefull.


kricir


Oct 21, 2006, 1:06 AM
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Well, I wont be running out of hangboard workout ideas any time soon!


overlord


Oct 22, 2006, 7:29 AM
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i just have to add one more thing that nobody has mentioned before.

keeping a journal is vital for effecient hangboard training. that way youll be able to monitor your progress and modify your excerise (change it when you reach a plateau, know how much weight you can add, stuff like that). while it is good if you keep the journal of all training, most other methods can be usefull without.

i use a spreadsheet into which i put number of reps, weight added, holds used, stuff like that. apart from monitoring progress (its pretty easy to get a measure, i usually use no. of reps and average weight added), its also usefull for monitoring the excercise in progress (you can easily see how many series you have done up to the point, plus you can compare the current workout with the previous one and modify if necessary).

anyway, its a simple tool, but its effects are really significant.


jonathanyang


Oct 22, 2006, 9:43 AM
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alright, what i'm about to say is based on my personal practice and opinion, so please do take it with a proper grain of salt if you disagree. i am not here to preach like i know it all because i don't, but just thought i'd share some of my experiences with you guys.

anyhoos, on to what i was here to say. basically, i just don't recommend anyone do more than hang on holds that are spaced less than shoulder-width apart. this includes pull-ups, frenchies, et al.

why i say this is because when we pull up, our hands naturally want to supinate due to the rotation of our shoulders. try pulling up on a hold (an edge would be the most obvious) that forces your hands to be less than shoulder width apart, the closer the better.

you will notice that as you pull up, your hands will tend to "open out", or supinate. this causes us to load out fingers differently, with less on the index, among a whole host of other issues pertaining to the wrists, elbows and to a smaller extend, the shoulders.

this is not to say that pulling up on a hangboard's holds that are spaced shoulder width apart or further is perfectly okay, but it does present slightly lesser issues because there would be less supination of the hands. it also feels less uncomfortable, and i guess one could say that "if it feels good, it can't be that bad."

the perfect scenario would be for the holds of a hangboard to be slightly turned out. a bird's eye view would be a hangboard which kinda looks something like this,

\ /
\ /
\ /

for what it's worth, what i do is i do pullups on the jugs and dead hangs only on the more specific holds (crimps, pockets, slopers, etc). one might argue that separating these two exercises won't be as "useful" or punishing as doing a set of pullups on a crimp, and one might be right. but i just prefer to err on the side of caution and comfort. :)

jonathan


jonathanyang


Oct 22, 2006, 9:45 AM
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my bird's eye view of the hangboard kinda came out wrong. i was gunning for more of a giant V shape, albeit less radical. more of a "gentle" V shape, if that even makes any sense at all. ;P


overlord


Oct 22, 2006, 12:14 PM
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well, i do seperate pullups from finger excercises (deadhangs), but thats mostly because its kinda hard to finish both excercises in the set efficiently (meaning you do your last pullup when you finish the deadhang).

i havent thought about supination in this context. ill have to give it a try and see what is happening.


moeh


Dec 7, 2006, 9:56 AM
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Hello people,

first, thanks, this is a very informative thread.

Last days I was thinking alot about a good hangboard workout. I can redpoint 5.11d and I compared my finger strength to some of my friends who already sent some 5.12d and they are much stronger. We did a maximum strength test how long someone can hang on a specific grip for 1-2 seconds. Especially in the open hand position (3 fingers, 1-2cm edge) these guys can hang on with 30-40kg more weight than me. So I thought, wtf? Is this the difference between 11d and 12d ? So I think I will have a good benefit if I become better in this position, also because the rocks here have a lot of short routes with pockets and slopers, where a lot of open hand strength is needed.

Now I read all the training plans about hangboarding and I read sth about strength training in general. Here where I live we have very short routes, about 10 meters, so I dont need any endurance. I just want to be able to do hard moves. But I dont know how to train, I mean how much intensity and how many repetitions. I know you can get strength either by hypertrophy (about 80% of max) or by max recruitment (90-100% of max) and its useful to change from one type to the other from time to time, to not get to an plateau. Is it correct what i'm saying?
But for example how to train hypertrophy, I read rockprodigys program and he is doing sth like 5-10x 5sec holding / 5sec break. But on other programs (8a.nu, metolius, moonclimbing.com) they have different times. Some have one hang every minute, some say at least 3 minutes rest.
Whats the best. Please tell me Smile


overlord


Dec 7, 2006, 10:28 AM
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ideally, you should train hypertrophy first and max recruitment afterwards.


and i also suggest not ignoring endurance/power enduranceWink


moeh


Dec 7, 2006, 1:45 PM
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why hypertrophy first and not max recruitment first ?

i think for me its enough to get endurance in routes, when the season starts again next year in april. until then i will only boulder indoor and do some hangboard. and i dont want any periodization.

Why is Ben Moon writing in his finger board training article on his homepage that you only should be able to hang on for maximum 8 seconds otherwise the hold is too easy. On the other hand Rockprodigy suggests 7x7seconds in one set. Why?


overlord


Dec 8, 2006, 2:23 AM
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moeh wrote:
why hypertrophy first and not max recruitment first ?

make the muscle big and then make the muslce strongWink

to explain further... offcourse you can do max recruitment first and then hypertrophy... but that way, youll max out your current muscle strength (lest assume you start with 100 fibers and recruit as much fibers as you possibly can, say 80), than add, say, 30 more fibers, of which 50% will already be 'recruited'. so youll end up with 130 fibers and 95 recruited (as compared to starting 100% fibers, 50% recruited).

but if you do hypertrophy first, youll first increase the fiber count by 30 and the consequent max recruitment will recruit from the whole pool of fibers, so if you reach 80% recruitment, that will be 80% of 130 which is 104 or about 10% better than the other regime.

the numbers are offcourse totally fictional and only used to illustrate a point. 'normal' persons can recruit about 60% of their fibers (according to PRC), but top climbers utilize allmost all.

you need to realize that max recruitment only works until there are unactive fibers. once you run out of them, you wont increase your strenght anymore. plus, strenght gains will be larger if you train a larger muscle.


moeh


Dec 8, 2006, 3:56 AM
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thanks for reply, sounds logical for me.

and for the hangboard programs: i will try out some in the next months and keep record to see what will work best.

do you think its counterproductive (ie for regeneration) to do some middle-hard bouldering or routes where you get a pump, after the hangboard workout ?

for example normally it looks like this:

-30 mins easy to middle bouldering for warmup, mainly concentrating on movement
-30 mins hangboard
and then you think is there any problem to boulder another 1-2 hours ? or should i only do the hangboard for maximum effects ?


overlord


Dec 8, 2006, 4:38 AM
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i dont see why it would be bad, unless you injure yourself. that is especially likely during the max recruitment phase because youre really putting some serious loads on your tendons.

but the other question is... will you be able to do 1h of bouldering after a serious HB session? i know i wouldnt and i think that if youre able to climb hard after a serious HB training, youre doing something wrong (need to add a bit of weight, increase the number of series or something).


dbrayack


Dec 8, 2006, 7:45 AM
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This is great, thanks!


serpico


Dec 8, 2006, 8:33 AM
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In reply to:
but if you do hypertrophy first, youll first increase the fiber count by 30 and the consequent max recruitment will recruit from the whole pool of fibers, so if you reach 80% recruitment, that will be 80% of 130 which is 104 or about 10% better than the other regime.
Muscle fibre count is genetically determined and doesn't change. Hypertrophy is muscle fibre thickening.


fluxus


Dec 8, 2006, 9:31 AM
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moeh wrote:
how to train hypertrophy, I read rockprodigys program and he is doing sth like 5-10x 5sec holding / 5sec break. But on other programs (8a.nu, metolius, moonclimbing.com) they have different times. Some have one hang every minute, some say at least 3 minutes rest.
Whats the best. Please tell me Smile

its easy, go with rockprodigy.


overlord


Dec 8, 2006, 11:45 AM
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serpico wrote:
In reply to:
but if you do hypertrophy first, youll first increase the fiber count by 30 and the consequent max recruitment will recruit from the whole pool of fibers, so if you reach 80% recruitment, that will be 80% of 130 which is 104 or about 10% better than the other regime.
Muscle fibre count is genetically determined and doesn't change. Hypertrophy is muscle fibre thickening.

yes, i know, but its easier to explain it this wayWink


microbarn


May 11, 2007, 1:05 PM
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more good advice. I thought I would continue to quote it here to keep things together.

jto wrote:
donīt hang loose Smile meaning: keep shoulders tensed down a bit so you donīt hang totally relaxed. this way the rotator cuff stays healthy.

to stimulate growth you have to add volume and/or add weights. basicly that and it goes with the hangboarding too. the muscles in the forearm are quite small so the hypertrophy is not as huge as in quads etc of course. also the static nature of hangboarding is not so good for hypertrophy as dynamic movement.

my best hyp program for hangboard only:
- do multiple (3-10) sets for one grip type.
- do the sets with reps = repeaters: for instance one set: 8x10secs hang @ 50 lbs/ 5 sec pauses, last rep is near or at failure.
- use 2-3 different grip types only in a workout.
- do vary your training regimen: hang times 5-15 secs, pauses 2-10 secs, weights, reps, sets grips etc.
- add overall volume. for instance if you started with the above "8x10secs hang @ 50 lbs/ 5 sec pauses", try to work your way maybe to "12x15secs hang @ 60 lbs/ 5 sec pauses"
- keep the reps in one set between 5 and 15 stressing either strength or endurance side of hypertrophic training

cheers :)

from
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1595288#1595288


desertwanderer81


Oct 12, 2007, 8:43 AM
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My workout!

Push myself doing random pullups and hangs as much as I can but stop before I injure myself!

I also like to spread it out during the day rather than all at once. Do a hang, a set of pullups on the the jugs, and anouther hang when I wake up and get home from work, and before I go to bed, etc.

Nothing set in stone, just whenever I see the board, etc. It's good stuff. Just don't injure youself.


Uncia


Oct 12, 2007, 9:53 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhWaJPEoJzQ

Video of a good hangboard workout.


microbarn


Nov 30, 2007, 4:16 AM
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from getsomeethics:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1743679#1743679
Attachments: hangboard.doc (37.0 KB)

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