Forums: Climbing Information: Climbing History & Trivia:
Acronym for good gear placement
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Climbing History & Trivia

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


anniemarea


Oct 21, 2006, 3:11 PM
Post #1 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 21, 2006
Posts: 4

Acronym for good gear placement
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am looking for and acronym for good gear placement; something that may include solid rock, surface area, direction of pull, etc...


tradrenn


Oct 21, 2006, 3:33 PM
Post #2 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bomber.


zuegma


Oct 21, 2006, 3:47 PM
Post #3 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 8, 2006
Posts: 125

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

K.I.S.S.


oldfart


Oct 21, 2006, 4:08 PM
Post #4 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 6, 2004
Posts: 76

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Y
G
B
S
M


anniemarea


Oct 21, 2006, 4:40 PM
Post #5 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 21, 2006
Posts: 4

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not helpful boys, but thanks for trying.


oldfart


Oct 21, 2006, 4:54 PM
Post #6 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 6, 2004
Posts: 76

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Maybe you could have two acronyms, a long one for easy climbs, and a shorter one for the hard ones.

For the truly epic stuff, you could use a mnemonic, but that's sponsored pro level.


cintune


Oct 21, 2006, 6:48 PM
Post #7 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1293

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

CYA


dfoote07


Oct 21, 2006, 7:00 PM
Post #8 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 2, 2006
Posts: 50

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

STARRS

S- Size of Crack
T- Type of Crack - constricting, parallel, etc..
A- Angle - of gear placement
R- Rock Quality
R- Removablity of the piece
S- Surface area and contact

It has work well for me...

Derek


Partner blazesod


Oct 21, 2006, 8:24 PM
Post #9 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2002
Posts: 247

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not sure about gear placement but for anchors isn't it: Ernest?

E- Equalized
R- Redundant (no single point of failure)
N- No
E- Extension (shock loading)
S- Strong or Sound
T- Timely


ja1484


Oct 21, 2006, 9:21 PM
Post #10 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 10, 2006
Posts: 1935

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Not sure about gear placement but for anchors isn't it: Ernest?

E- Equalized
R- Redundant (no single point of failure)
N- No
E- Extension (shock loading)
S- Strong or Sound
T- Timely



I prefer John Long's SRENE:

Strong
Redundant
Equalized
No
Extension


Timely certainly doesn't hurt, but if you need a few extra minutes to get it right, I can deal.


chossmonkey


Oct 21, 2006, 9:45 PM
Post #11 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You would likely need at least four different acronyms for the major anchor types: active, passive, natural, and fixed.


They are all evaluated differently.


jt512


Oct 22, 2006, 8:31 PM
Post #12 of 31 (5960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21891

Re: Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

All good acronyms start with the acronym and work backwards. With that in mind, I nominate FATTRADBASTARD. Now, you need only relate the letters to terms dealing with gear placements.

HTH (Ok, that's an exception)

Jay


richmond


Dec 9, 2006, 11:54 PM
Post #13 of 31 (5415 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 6, 2006
Posts: 18

Re: [jt512] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

here's mine:

BFT or BFR

big fucking tree or big fucking rock


deadhorse


Feb 1, 2007, 11:57 PM
Post #14 of 31 (5169 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 241

Re: [richmond] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

DESS?
things to take into account
Direction of fall
Ease of removal
Stability
Strength


mikitta


Mar 6, 2007, 2:03 PM
Post #15 of 31 (5051 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 301

Re: [deadhorse] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Or you could DRESS it :)

Direction (of force)
Redundancy (of back up)
Ease (of placement and removal)
Stability (of placement)
Strength (when considering potential stresses)

God Bless,
mik


zeke_sf


Mar 6, 2007, 2:33 PM
Post #16 of 31 (5023 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [jt512] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
HTH (Ok, that's an exception)

Jay

What does that stand for? Hope This Holds? That's what I'm always thinking, anyway.


(This post was edited by zeke_sf on Mar 6, 2007, 2:35 PM)


ihategrigris


Mar 6, 2007, 2:49 PM
Post #17 of 31 (5008 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 6, 2005
Posts: 757

Re: [zeke_sf] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

S - Stable: how suceptable is it to walking, moving, jiggeriing out of place?
L - Load: Is the piece oriented and set correctly to handle the anticipated load.
I - Intent: what is the purpose of the piece, what will it function in your overall safety system.
C - Contact: How good is the surface contact, lobe contact etc.
K - Clean: Is it easy/obvious for your second to clean. How likely is it to get jammed and lost.

That's slick!


rockguide


May 17, 2007, 5:06 AM
Post #18 of 31 (4728 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1358

Re: [ihategrigris] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

S olid rock
A ngle of pull
F it
E xtra forces/leverage

And two more that may help.

S ize of the piece (larger is generally better except for tricams)
T ype (simpler is often better)


airdo


May 17, 2007, 5:33 AM
Post #19 of 31 (4712 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 27, 2004
Posts: 39

Re: [rockguide] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

DR MAS

D - direction of pull
R - removability

M - maximum surface area
A - appropriate size
S - solid rock quality

I must also admit that I work for a rock climbing school called MAS so this is the anronym we use while teach gear placement. http://www.mtadventure.com


(This post was edited by airdo on May 17, 2007, 5:59 AM)


dynosore


May 17, 2007, 6:45 AM
Post #20 of 31 (4665 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1761

Re: [airdo] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Holds bodyweight when I rest on this 5.8 testpiece
All-directional
Maximum surface area in contact with rock


tradrenn


May 17, 2007, 7:04 PM
Post #21 of 31 (4596 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: [dynosore] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

NOT ALIEN

Laugh


tanner


May 17, 2007, 7:24 PM
Post #22 of 31 (4575 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2002
Posts: 491

Re: [tradrenn] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 Two important rules

#1 Don't F*ck up and Die.
#2 If in violation of rule #1 don't take anyone else with you.


evanwish


May 31, 2007, 11:50 PM
Post #23 of 31 (4351 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2007
Posts: 1040

Re: [airdo] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

wow there have been some good ones mentioned (i should remember those!)

the one i use for anchors, not necessarily the placements themselves, is;

SERNE

S=solid
E=equalized
R=redundent
NE=non extention (if one placement blows)


I hope this helps


fulton


Jun 1, 2007, 5:07 AM
Post #24 of 31 (4305 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 210

Re: [anniemarea] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Annie, if you have time to remember acronyms when placing gear, you should be trying harder routes.


Partner j_ung


Jun 1, 2007, 6:15 AM
Post #25 of 31 (4270 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687

Re: [jt512] Acronym for good gear placement [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
All good acronyms start with the acronym and work backwards. With that in mind, I nominate FATTRADBASTARD. Now, you need only relate the letters to terms dealing with gear placements.

HTH (Ok, that's an exception)

Jay

I can't tell you how many clients have come to me with a word they wanted acronymmed. I've lost count over the years. Mad One company wanted an acronym for the word COMPLIANCE. No lie. I refused to do it and my boss talked them down off the literary ledge.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Jun 1, 2007, 6:16 AM)

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Climbing History & Trivia

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook