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flick
Oct 30, 2006, 5:58 PM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2006
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need a partner for stone mountain sunday 11/5. My girlfriend and I are traveling from cincy to NC for the weekend and wanted to climb stone mountain on sunday, but I need someone to swap leads with. If interested email me at flick2614@yahoo.com
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mattyp
Oct 30, 2006, 6:15 PM
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I am so freaking jealous! I wish I could go with y'all, but i'm stuck in a war. Sorry.
Anyway, Bump
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jager
Oct 31, 2006, 8:07 PM
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My partner and I may be up there this weekend. Not sure as of yet. I'll let you know. I have led a 5.8 (U Slot) and 5.9 (White Way) up to the tree ledge, but have only led the great arch from the tree ledge up. Started out on Great White Way last time, got to the second bolt, but just wasn't feeling it, so I backed off and climbed the arch.
Have you climbed stone before?
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flick
Oct 31, 2006, 9:23 PM
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never climbed @stone before
we planned on climbing the arch, but I'm not sure of leading any of the routes to the tree ledge.
I've lead 5.6's but there was plenty of pro all the way, I don't think I would be comfortable on runout 7's, but leading the arch itself is no problem.
Let me know
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nc_trad_climber
Nov 1, 2006, 2:34 AM
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If I was in town this weekend I would definately join you. I love Stone. Your best bet for getting to the tree ledge are U-Slot and Block Route. Dirty Crack is also not that bad. Do not let the easy rating of the Entrace Crack fool you. The run out section at the top can really grip you out if you are not used to it. From the tree ledge you definately want to hit both the Great Arch and No Alternative. I have not climbed the Pulpit, but its next on my list. Have fun.
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goober
Nov 1, 2006, 3:49 AM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2003
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Flick,
Stone is probably a bad place if you aren't comfortable with runout slab. Moores might be a better alternative. There are plenty of routes with BIG holds and plenty of gear at Moores.
If you do go to Stone and climb the Arch, there are several reasonable starts to it. The easiest start is over by "U-slot" but unlisted in any guidebook. Climb up the left facing dihedral of "U-slot" a body length or so, then move up and right (generally following a subtle ramp) on pretty easy terrain to the upper part of "Crystal Lizard". Follow this to the tree ledge. This pitch is probably only about 5.4 or so. However the classic way to get to the ledge is to climb the off width crack "Entrance Crack". It would protect with the new # 5 Camelot, or just look hard for the small vertical crack on the edge of the wide crack about half way up the wide section. There are numerous old chopped bolt studs there to mark the placement (tcu, or red alien). This pitch is actually 5.6 or harder, not 5.4 as the guidebooks suggest.
Have fun, Stone is an awesome place.
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goober
Nov 1, 2006, 3:50 AM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2003
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Flick,
Stone is probably a bad place if you aren't comfortable with runout slab. Moores might be a better alternative. There are plenty of routes with BIG holds and plenty of gear at Moores.
If you do go to Stone and climb the Arch, there are several reasonable starts to it. The easiest start is over by "U-slot" but unlisted in any guidebook. Climb up the left facing dihedral of "U-slot" a body length or so, then move up and right (generally following a subtle ramp) on pretty easy terrain to the upper part of "Crystal Lizard". Follow this to the tree ledge. This pitch is probably only about 5.4 or so. However the classic way to get to the ledge is to climb the off width crack "Entrance Crack". It would protect with the new # 5 Camelot, or just look hard for the small vertical crack on the edge of the wide crack about half way up the wide section. There are numerous old chopped bolt studs there to mark the placement (tcu, or red alien). This pitch is actually 5.6 or harder, not 5.4 as the guidebooks suggest.
Have fun, Stone is an awesome place.
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jager
Nov 1, 2006, 2:16 PM
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Registered: May 25, 2006
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In reply to: never climbed @stone before we planned on climbing the arch, but I'm not sure of leading any of the routes to the tree ledge. I've lead 5.6's but there was plenty of pro all the way, I don't think I would be comfortable on runout 7's, but leading the arch itself is no problem. Let me know
Cool, If I do end up at stone this weekend (which I hope I do), I can get you to the tree ledge no problem. Yeah both the U-Slot (gear) and White Way (bolts) are runout. It's not a big deal for me. All of the bolted routes @ stone, like White Way, only have bolts to protect the cruxes, so atleast you can easily spot the hard stuff from a far.
The first bolt on White Way is around 35+ ft off of the ground. I scared my belayer a little bit when I tied in and started climbing without being on belay, but there was nothing he could do until I clipped that bolt and by that time I was on belay. There were really only two quick 5.9 moves on that climb the rest was cake.
On Uslot there is some pro to start out, then its runout for 40 or so feet to the roof, where bomber pro awaits, then its runout for another 50 feet to the double anchor. The only hard part on Uslot is pulling the little roof (through the uslot), but I place a bomber yellow link cam right at the crux, so its no big deal. This is a great intro to stone slab climbing. It was my first lead at stone and my first time on slab. Trust those feet.
Will you guys be camping at Stone? I'm going to try and camp sat night, thats what we did two weeks ago. I'll shoot you a PM today or tomorrow when my partner figures out what he can do.
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jager
Nov 1, 2006, 3:30 PM
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Registered: May 25, 2006
Posts: 21
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We'll be there, email sent!
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