|
estwing
Sep 10, 2002, 4:02 PM
Post #1 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 344
|
Hi, I am soon going to invest in some hexes, I have conflicting advice about whether to get them wired or on spectra.
I am told that wired hexes are easier to place and more durable, but that they are more prone to walking out of the placement. Also that they don't cam as well.
For the hexes on spectra ie. WC rockcentricks, I have heard that the slings are too long, and that they are difficult to place.
Anybody have an opinion?(Ha,ha,ha)
Thanks,
Sam
|
|
|
|
|
wlderdude
Sep 10, 2002, 4:17 PM
Post #2 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
|
slung, not swaged.
Sounds like what 007 would say when ordering hexes.
My biggest concern is that hexes STAY IN THE ROCK and soft products do that better than cable. It is not that they can walk the way cams do, but get sprung out. In parralell cracks, they work because you are pullin just on the side with the cable/string. Pushing on the cable can dislodge it. That's why they are easier to clean. You can not push with sluings, just pull.
I don't really think it makes a huge difference, but I feel safer with soft products.
Admittedly, I have never used the steel cable variety. I just see them popping out and that scares me. Piece of mind if nothing else.
Plus, anoter dynamic link can't hurt.
[ This Message was edited by: wlderdude on 2002-09-10 09:26 ]
|
|
|
|
|
davebbq
Sep 10, 2002, 4:38 PM
Post #3 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2002
Posts: 16
|
I bought 3 hexs long time ago and I used 4mm kevlar ropes and a triple fisherman knot (triple is recommended with kevlar). The thing is that I almost never used them except when I needed my nut tool to be hit hard by something for removing a nut !!!
Faque c'est ça qu'y'é ça.
David
|
|
|
|
|
thrillseeker05
Sep 10, 2002, 4:46 PM
Post #4 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 14, 2002
Posts: 612
|
I also was told in the beginning that you don’t place hexes much or they are hard to place. But then I got some hexes and have placed them on almost every route. At least one. With a sling they can be bomb proof. It is all a preference and if you have the confidence and time to work one in real well. The sling would be best. Then it will never move. Just my opinion
|
|
|
|
|
mikedano
Sep 10, 2002, 4:47 PM
Post #5 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 2001
Posts: 388
|
I've got wired hexs, and I really like them.
Wired are noticably easier to place than slung--the biggest benefit. And I don't have trouble with them walking because it's easy to give them a good yank and "set" them in the rock, or just put a longer runner on them. Go wire.
|
|
|
|
|
tradguy
Sep 10, 2002, 7:45 PM
Post #6 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 526
|
Slung, all the way.
I own a full set of BD hexes that are about 6 years old. #1-#3 are on wires, #4-#11 are slung (by me) with 5.5 mm Spectra. I HATE the wired ones. I never use them. I quit carrying them on my lead rack a couple years ago. Don't even take them out of my apartment anymore. I might as well throw them away. They SUCK, SUCK, SUCK!! I think you get the picture. The problem is that with those small guys, the cable gets in the way of the camming action. Also, their size range is overlapped by the set of nuts, but they are not nearly as easy to place, so why even bother? #4-#11 have seen a decent amount of use. What I've found, though, is that #11 didn't get carried so much because of the weight, and while I always managed to find a place for it when I carried it, I never really missed it when I didn't.
When BD's patent expired, Metolius and Wild Country came out with their hexes, and BD started making theirs on wire. I've used both Metolius and BD wired hexes, and didn't care for them as much as my old slung hexes. The radical curves on the Metolius don't seem to fit places well at all, and the cables added very little in the way of helpful placements (because the heavy weight of the hex caused it to droop over anyway). Same deal with the wired BD's.
Wild Country "Rockcentrics" on the other hand, were available on Dyneema, and seemed really nice. I got a set (#3-#9 - equivalent in size to the #4-#10 BD's) and after using them for 5 months now, I absolutely love them. My old BD's don't come on trips anymore. The gentle curves of the WC's really seem to improve the placements, and I find the length of the slings to be perfect, and their supple nature really nice for handling. As a bonus, with the dyneema being so supple, you can get by just clipping a biner to the piece instead of a draw, and not have to worry about it wiggling out.
So, to summarize my small novel, I've used them all, and I think the Wild Country Rockcentrics slung on dyneema are the best, unless you want to be able to customize the length of the slings, in which case you'd want to stick with the old BD's and rig them yourself. Good luck!
P.S. I've actually weighed my hexes and cams and such (yes, anal, I know), so I'll check tonight at home and see if fleadawg's statement about weight is true!
[ This Message was edited by: tradguy on 2002-09-10 12:50 ]
|
|
|
|
|
tradguy
Sep 10, 2002, 8:41 PM
Post #7 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 526
|
Nice chart, fleadawg. Lots of good info there. One thing I really noticed, though, was the weigh vs range between the forged friends and the camalots.
One other nice thing about the #11 hex, though, is that it makes a nice hammer against your nut tool for getting out stuck gear!
|
|
|
|
|
fitz
Sep 11, 2002, 10:40 PM
Post #8 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 363
|
I like hexes, but I don't care for the wired variety. They are heavier, which defeats some of the purpose, and you effectively loose one of the camming positions (yes, you can passively cam a hex).
-jjf
|
|
|
|
|
toobigtoclimb
Sep 11, 2002, 11:09 PM
Post #9 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 426
|
I have slung (sewn webbing) hexes. I have to admit that, since cams arrived, my hexes sit in the very, very bottom of my gear bag and rarely come out to play. I used to use them quite often. Slung (cord or web) units are a little hard to fish into tighter placements but provide great flexibility for larger ones.
I once had a friend fall on a hex that was placed just off of the belay in a little roof crack. He took an excellent fall and I had the privelage of watching the hex through the whole thing. That thing did not move a milimeter. Nice.
And, as an added bonus, they make cool old-school clanking noises on your rack.
|
|
|
|
|
tradguy
Sep 12, 2002, 1:53 PM
Post #10 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 526
|
Yes, the clanking noise is really nice. I'm surprised that you would quit using the hexes though, since they're such bomber placements (as you've noted yourself). Maybe I just have a tendency to look for hex placements, but I seem to find lots of spots where there is a crack the widens as it goes up, which is perfect for hexes, but rather crap for cams (since the cams can walk up and open all the way). Sometimes I will leave the biggest of my hexes in my pack, but unless I know the climb is finger crack or thinner the whole way, I will always bring some of them.
|
|
|
|
|
tradguy
Sep 12, 2002, 3:36 PM
Post #11 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 526
|
Alot of hard trad routes do have easier sections, or a nice semi-restful stance here or there, where you can chill out for a second and throw in a hex, and save your cams for the pumpy parts. I know I've placed hexes on easier 5.10's before, but not sure above that.
To be honest, though, if I'm racking up for a hard line, the big hexes get dropped quick unless I KNOW there's a placement for them.
|
|
|
|
|
fitz
Sep 12, 2002, 4:48 PM
Post #12 of 12
(2314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 363
|
I'm with Tradguy, I don't use #10 and #11 much anymore, but I've definately used #7-#9 on routes up to 11a/b.
Great for belay stations, so you can go lighter on the cams, and, when the weather turns foul, cheaper to bail on. Part of it may just be personal experience and preference.
-jjf
|
|
|
|
|
|
