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Matching hands on slopers
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sorryfingers


Oct 20, 2006, 2:51 PM
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Matching hands on slopers
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I was working on a campus problem with one good bucket hold about under a really good sloper (maybe more of a shelf then a sloper) and noticed that when I reached the sloper with one hand I couldn't seem to let go of the lower hand and match without totally falling off the problem Looking back at some other routes I've tried, this seems to be a regular problem for me.

I was wondering if anyone could help me out with
a) What my problem is (ie: grip strength?, finger strength (this seems unlikely since it's a really big hold), gravity momentarily increasing it's pull on me, me being a sissy...)
b) How to solve said problem.


cjsimpso


Oct 20, 2006, 3:43 PM
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Did you make that ID solely to ask this question?

I think the two-word answer would be "contact strength." But the two-word answer doesn't do much good without seeing the hold, the move, and the climber.


musicman1586


Oct 20, 2006, 4:14 PM
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Use your feet, there's this wonderful thing called technique out there, learn it, it's far more valuable than strength.


overlord


Oct 21, 2006, 12:45 AM
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you are probably too weak or have poor technique. dont worry about it, youll improve.


sungam


Oct 21, 2006, 3:46 AM
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Technique, not just foot position, as you said you were campusing, but body position. when you grab a sloper you are using friction to hold you on.
If you done any mechanics/kinematics work with friction you will know that:
μF is directly proportional with the angle from the normal of the downward componant of weight.
Basically what this means is the you want to be under the sloper as much as possible, so try to stop yourself swinging out, and use you core/shoulders to keep you under that sloper.
Also, sometimes shouting at you hand to stay on like "STICK ON THERE YA WEE SHITTY BASTARD!" helps, too. But this may be too advanced for you.

-Magnus


Partner devkrev


Oct 21, 2006, 5:08 AM
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In reply to:
"STICK ON THERE YA WEE s--- BASTARD!" helps, too. But this may be too advanced for you.


Following that old saying "If you're screaming, you're breathing"?


dev


sungam


Oct 21, 2006, 8:53 AM
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Possibly.
I have to say I am commonly guilty of holding my breath on crux sequances, so shouting actually helps sometimes, but sometimesd I just grunt.

-Magnus


cruz_bustamante


Nov 2, 2006, 6:47 PM
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quit now, before it's too late. Seriously.

But if you can't, then Franklin Endo Chalk (that pure uncut gold) kind-of works.

I was high on the Flyin' Woody, gripping tight to a horrible sloper with one hand (midsummer even), the other hand all crimped up on the tiniest non-hold ever seen, while my only foot was threatening to vibrate its way off the tiny nubbin I was on when I knew I needed chalk. I exhaled a quarter breath, turned to look over my shoulder at my single Misty Mountain pad two stories below me, and trusted that crimper with my life for long enough to chalk up my sweaty palm real white like. As soon as I pulled it out of the bag I slapped that sloper as hard as I could, like I was spanking highknee, and gradually pulled myself up, bit by slow bit, until I was eye level with the finishing hold. My heart was racing, adrenal glands pumping full bore, and mind buzzing with the forgetfullness of overexertion as I stood up and looked around. If only you could have seen what I saw then.


gunksjunky88


Nov 14, 2006, 8:49 PM
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Re: [sorryfingers] Matching hands on slopers [In reply to]
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technique is by far the most valuble aspect of climbing.


sorryfingers


Nov 14, 2006, 9:45 PM
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In retrospect, this was a stupid question.
The easy answer was to ask some of those characters I hang out with around the bouldering wall, which I did. Thanks for the responses (useful and less so). In my defense, I only seem to post stuff on this site when I'm all burned out on computer homework and everything's a little fuzzy. Like now!


sorryfingers


Nov 14, 2006, 9:51 PM
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Re: [sungam] Matching hands on slopers [In reply to]
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If you done any mechanics/kinematics work with friction you will know that:
μF is directly proportional with the angle from the normal of the downward componant of weight.
In reply to:

Thanks, Magnus, yes I have taken a fair amount of mechanics/kinematics, but there are several ugly looking related letter grades that mean I probably don't understand it all that well.

I guess that just leaves yelling.


cjsimpso


Nov 14, 2006, 9:55 PM
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Yelling, and having your "mind buzzing with the forgetfullness of overexertion" or whatever the fuck that guy was talking about.


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