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tradgirl
Sep 24, 2001, 11:39 PM
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Registered: May 10, 2001
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So I am wondering...I climb on average twice a week. Usually once inside and once outside. I have found that after almost 2 years of climbing, I have hit a plateau where I can't seem to get past a really tough 5.9 bordering on a 5.10......Any suggestions? (Other than climb more, because if I could I would) Would it be beneficial to work a problem til I drop dead?
Laurie
[ This Message was edited by: tradgirl on 2001-09-24 23:40 ]
[ This Message was edited by: tradgirl on 2001-09-24 23:43 ]
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compclimber
Sep 25, 2001, 12:24 AM
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Look into some technique explicit climbing routines and then as you build footwork start to do more strenght training.
Also try doing a route that maybe takes like 5-6 trys untill you can redpoint it. Just dont get locked into a route because it has a bigger number than what you have previously done. Look for some thing that caters to your climbing style....and go for it.
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jds100
Sep 25, 2001, 11:11 AM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2001
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If you're training for climbing, then you probably need to adjust that routine. If you're not training for climbing, and that means in the climbing gym as well as a conventional gym, then you'd probably benefit from training.
Check the training forums here, and the few training books. A great site on trainig is at www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/index.html.
You'll need to develop a routine for your time in the climbing gym, to maximize the relatively small opportunity (one day per week inside) you have to work toward improvement. The routine will allow you to observe progress in strength and technique, after a little time, by getting better at performing the same activity (routine). You can do hangboard work, campus board work (maybe), traversing (definitely!), boulder problems, along with climbing roped routes. Make your time have structure and purpose. Commit to sticking to a development routine for at least 6 weeks, and don't get distracted, or discouraged. You'll read about what to expect and when, so don't expect improvement too quickly. That's the purpose of committing to the routine for a number of weeks: the goal is the "timeframe", not the "improvement". The gains in technique and strength will come as a result of the commitment. Stick with the timeframe (6 weeks, 8 weeks, etc.); don't stop because you see some improvement and you think that's what you were looking for. Stay with it the whole time, making small adjustments as needed to keep it hard and interesting, but still within the routine framework. Good luck.
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wigglestick
Sep 25, 2001, 11:19 AM
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I have always followed the principal of building a pryamid. In order to push through to the next level you have to have a solid foundation in the lower grades. For example just because you climbed a 5.11 does not mean that you are on the verge of climbing a 5.12. You need to build the foundation first. You need to climb a bunch of routes at the lower levels to prepare you for the bigger numbers. every 5.12 ascent is built on a bunch of 5.11 ascents and each of those are built on a bunch of 5.10 climbs and so on. You can't just start working a really hard route and think that if you try it enough you will eventually get it.
5.15
5.14 5.14 5.14
5.13 5.13 5.13 5.13 5.13
5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12
5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11
etc.
etc.
I hope that helps
[ This Message was edited by: wigglestick on 2001-09-25 11:22 ]
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paulc
Sep 25, 2001, 12:19 PM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2001
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Hey TG;
Lots of good advice for you here.
I think that if I was you I would climb a little more. I find that it is hard to improve if I don't get climbing at least 3 times per week, preferably 4. That may seem like a lot but it really does make a difference. There are people at my gym who climb 1-2 times per week for 1-2 hours and they are still working 10s after years (and if they are cool with that then good for them. The people that are climbing 11's and 12's tend to get climbing at least 3 times per week.
The other thing to think about is that a good workout depending on your technique level ( if you are climbing 10 ish then your technique prob. can use some help, take a good movement course like someone else suggested) is a hangboard or system board. This is only recommended if your technique is pretty good though, you will get more gains out of good technique at your level than monster power.
You may also want to look into some of the mental aspect of getting your head in shape to succeed.
If you are interested in more specific advice give a shout.
Paul
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jds100
Sep 25, 2001, 4:46 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2001
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Yes! Absolutely!
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