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brent_e
Nov 6, 2006, 6:48 AM
Post #101 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: the best part was trying to fiddle in a #11 hex in the back of this wide crack. Can't do that at the creek, i'm sure!!! I think Super Crack was first done on hexes. I think there were about 3 of them used or were able to be. :lol:
that's pretty disgusting, really. But if you're strong, probably not all that bold. Sounds like a few climbers don't place at all on that route.
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brent_e
Nov 6, 2006, 6:50 AM
Post #102 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Brent and I are planning an ice trip. Watch out chossy, Brent might be planning this trip 'cause he thinks you're a girl. :twisted: Truthfully booger, brent is planning this trip with me because he is a girl and needs someone :robert: to show him how to get things done. Not that I've never backed off an ice route only to have Brent lead it.
:lol:
you'll eclipse me on ice quite quickly, methinks. Although it was nice for all those 5 minutes when i was better at you at something climbing! :lol:
what did you back off of?? Swaze??? The slush pile?!?!
That was kinda fun. I think rebecca was scared!!! :lol:
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brent_e
Nov 6, 2006, 6:53 AM
Post #103 of 3415
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In reply to: True what? Did you forget how to quote already? :P
In reply to: But my bad Chossposter for assuming someone with your huge amount of both quotes and posts would be able to read what was one post up. Especially in a thread that typically gets thirty posts a minute.
:lol:
man, red, you're like an old dog! and old dog that can't quote!
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redlegrangerone
Nov 6, 2006, 1:30 PM
Post #104 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: True what? Did you forget how to quote already? :P In reply to: But my bad Chossposter for assuming someone with your huge amount of both quotes and posts would be able to read what was one post up. Especially in a thread that typically gets thirty posts a minute. :lol: man, red, you're like an old dog! and old dog that can't quote!
Help!!!!!!!!!!! My quoter is broken and I can not get up.
You might be a Brent_e if you can quote really good, but do not climb.
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brent_e
Nov 6, 2006, 2:11 PM
Post #105 of 3415
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In reply to: Help!!!!!!!!!!! My quoter is broken and I can not get up. You might be a Brent_e if you can quote really good, but do not climb.
ahhhh c'mon.
I'll be climbing more than you come winter! :D
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redlegrangerone
Nov 6, 2006, 4:19 PM
Post #106 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: But we did not climb it because we only had 8 #1's and my partner did not want to run it out. Did you call him a sally and tell him what's there name did it with only 6? :lol: That works more often than not. Leap frogging or sliding works too.
All I need is a Chossmonkey and I never need a cam again.
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redlegrangerone
Nov 6, 2006, 4:27 PM
Post #107 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: Help!!!!!!!!!!! My quoter is broken and I can not get up. You might be a Brent_e if you can quote really good, but do not climb. ahhhh c'mon. I'll be climbing more than you come winter! :D
Maybe, but I doubt it. I will be on ice in two weeks. And the rock season never ends here. In fact the Stronghold is perfect now. :D
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brent_e
Nov 6, 2006, 4:31 PM
Post #108 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Help!!!!!!!!!!! My quoter is broken and I can not get up. You might be a Brent_e if you can quote really good, but do not climb. ahhhh c'mon. I'll be climbing more than you come winter! :D Maybe, but I doubt it. I will be on ice in two weeks. And the rock season never ends here. In fact the Stronghold is perfect now. :D
bastard!!!
I wish we had some "perfect" rock here. Most it is, well....limestone!
:lol:
but you just wait, Red. I'll get out a couple times a week when ice season occurs...which is likely in 2 months, sadly.
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redlegrangerone
Nov 6, 2006, 5:26 PM
Post #109 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Help!!!!!!!!!!! My quoter is broken and I can not get up. You might be a Brent_e if you can quote really good, but do not climb. ahhhh c'mon. I'll be climbing more than you come winter! :D Maybe, but I doubt it. I will be on ice in two weeks. And the rock season never ends here. In fact the Stronghold is perfect now. :D bastard!!! I wish we had some "perfect" rock here. Most it is, well....limestone! :lol: but you just wait, Red. I'll get out a couple times a week when ice season occurs...which is likely in 2 months, sadly.
Two months huh? That puts you at least another 20 climbing days behind me!!!!!!!!
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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chossmonkey
Nov 6, 2006, 6:45 PM
Post #110 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: the best part was trying to fiddle in a #11 hex in the back of this wide crack. Can't do that at the creek, i'm sure!!! I think Super Crack was first done on hexes. I think there were about 3 of them used or were able to be. :lol: that's pretty disgusting, really. But if you're strong, probably not all that bold. Sounds like a few climbers don't place at all on that route.
True, a run out while crack climbing isn't normally quite the same as a run out on a face route. But at the time it was a pretty hard route.
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chossmonkey
Nov 6, 2006, 6:54 PM
Post #111 of 3415
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In reply to: you'll eclipse me on ice quite quickly, methinks. Although it was nice for all those 5 minutes when i was better at you at something climbing! :lol: what did you back off of?? Swaze??? The slush pile?!?! That was kinda fun. I think rebecca was scared!!! :lol:
If you were willing to put in the time I'm sure you could far eclipse me.
I wanted nothing to do with leading that day at Swaze. I could tell that was a death trap just looking at it. I'm thinking of that route at the Dacks, when it was so damn cold. It was my lead and the ice was dinner plating so bad and my picks didn't feel like they were sticking worth a shit.
That day at Swaze was scary. I thought for sure the whole thing was going to come crashing down with you on it. :shock: Rebecca wasn't the only one concerned for your safety. That was good for me though. It likely wasn't as crazy as we thought it was, other than the part of you having no gear.
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chossmonkey
Nov 6, 2006, 6:59 PM
Post #112 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: True what? Did you forget how to quote already? :P In reply to: But my bad Chossposter for assuming someone with your huge amount of both quotes and posts would be able to read what was one post up. Especially in a thread that typically gets thirty posts a minute. :lol: man, red, you're like an old dog! and old dog that can't quote! Help!!!!!!!!!!! My quoter is broken and I can not get up. You might be a Brent_e if you can quote really good, but do not climb. |
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brent_e
Nov 6, 2006, 7:02 PM
Post #113 of 3415
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In reply to: If you were willing to put in the time I'm sure you could far eclipse me. I wanted nothing to do with leading that day at Swaze. I could tell that was a death trap just looking at it. I'm thinking of that route at the Dacks, when it was so damn cold. It was my lead and the ice was dinner plating so bad and my picks didn't feel like they were sticking worth a s---. That day at Swaze was scary. I thought for sure the whole thing was going to come crashing down with you on it. :shock: Rebecca wasn't the only one concerned for your safety. That was good for me though. It likely wasn't as crazy as we thought it was, other than the part of you having no gear.
doubtful, Nate. You're so much stronger than I am.
Oh, the route at the dacks!!! Yeah...that was FREAKIN scary. I actually almost slipped on that! But it was ok. The worst part was putting in that first screw, and getting over that bulge at the top, although the top bulge was well protected.
Swaze that day was no problem. It wasn't bonded, no, cuz of all the water running. But there it's not steep enough to really fall. And there wasn't a pint in gear. :? fun day. Too bad your ripped your coat.,
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redlegrangerone
Nov 6, 2006, 8:22 PM
Post #114 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: True what? Did you forget how to quote already? :P In reply to: But my bad Chossposter for assuming someone with your huge amount of both quotes and posts would be able to read what was one post up. Especially in a thread that typically gets thirty posts a minute. :lol: man, red, you're like an old dog! and old dog that can't quote! Help!!!!!!!!!!! My quoter is broken and I can not get up. You might be a Brent_e if you can quote really good, but do not climb. You might be a redleg if you flame Brent in the wrong thread. :nono:
I am just helping this one get off the ground.
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redlegrangerone
Nov 6, 2006, 8:23 PM
Post #115 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: True what? Did you forget how to quote already? :P In reply to: But my bad Chossposter for assuming someone with your huge amount of both quotes and posts would be able to read what was one post up. Especially in a thread that typically gets thirty posts a minute. :lol: man, red, you're like an old dog! and old dog that can't quote! Help!!!!!!!!!!! My quoter is broken and I can not get up. You might be a Brent_e if you can quote really good, but do not climb. You might be a redleg if you flame Brent in the wrong thread. :nono:
I am just helping this one get off the ground.
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chossmonkey
Nov 6, 2006, 11:35 PM
Post #117 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: ahhhh c'mon. I'll be climbing more than you come winter! :D Maybe, but I doubt it. I will be on ice in two weeks. And the rock season never ends here. In fact the Stronghold is perfect now. :D
It's true you can climb on rock there all winter. I've spent a lot of time down in AZ climbing rocks and hiding from winter. Though the locals tend to bundled up like they are climbing ice. :lol:
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chossmonkey
Nov 6, 2006, 11:48 PM
Post #118 of 3415
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In reply to: I wish we had some "perfect" rock here. Most it is, well....limestone! :lol: but you just wait, Red. I'll get out a couple times a week when ice season occurs...which is likely in 2 months, sadly.
Its not that its limestone (Or is it really dolostone?), its that it is shitty heavily fractured limestone that is all mostly off limits.
If all the rock wasn't off limits and if it would ever get cold and stay cold there could probably be a lot of really good mixed routes around here in the winter.
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brent_e
Nov 6, 2006, 11:52 PM
Post #119 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: I wish we had some "perfect" rock here. Most it is, well....limestone! :lol: but you just wait, Red. I'll get out a couple times a week when ice season occurs...which is likely in 2 months, sadly. Its not that its limestone (Or is it really dolostone?), its that it is s--- heavily fractured limestone that is all mostly off limits. If all the rock wasn't off limits and if it would ever get cold and stay cold there could probably be a lot of really good mixed routes around here in the winter.
it's both limestone and dolostone. The dolostone is usually the more massive, less fractured caprock. When you look at the cliff you'll see some rock (usually the less layered and less fractured type) and what you don't see is mudstone that has eroded and been covered with sediment.
There would be some good mixed routes for sure. A lot of them I think would have to be bolted, though. Not that it's a bad thing as it seems a lot of the rock that would form a mixed line is overhung.
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chossmonkey
Nov 6, 2006, 11:54 PM
Post #120 of 3415
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In reply to: Two months huh? That puts you at least another 20 climbing days behind me!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
In two months Brent and I are going to be in Nipigon sluggin' away at some killer ice.
Ice season will hopefully be getting started here in another month or so.
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redlegrangerone
Nov 6, 2006, 11:59 PM
Post #121 of 3415
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In reply to: It's true you can climb on rock there all winter. I've spent a lot of time down in AZ climbing rocks and hiding from winter. Though the locals tend to bundled up like they are climbing ice. :lol:
This is sooooo true. I actually saw a guy wearing a parka the other morning. On a day that ended up being 85 degrees. :lol:
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chossmonkey
Nov 7, 2006, 12:21 AM
Post #122 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: If you were willing to put in the time I'm sure you could far eclipse me. I wanted nothing to do with leading that day at Swaze. I could tell that was a death trap just looking at it. I'm thinking of that route at the Dacks, when it was so damn cold. It was my lead and the ice was dinner plating so bad and my picks didn't feel like they were sticking worth a s---. That day at Swaze was scary. I thought for sure the whole thing was going to come crashing down with you on it. :shock: Rebecca wasn't the only one concerned for your safety. That was good for me though. It likely wasn't as crazy as we thought it was, other than the part of you having no gear. doubtful, Nate. You're so much stronger than I am. Oh, the route at the dacks!!! Yeah...that was FREAKIN scary. I actually almost slipped on that! But it was ok. The worst part was putting in that first screw, and getting over that bulge at the top, although the top bulge was well protected. Swaze that day was no problem. It wasn't bonded, no, cuz of all the water running. But there it's not steep enough to really fall. And there wasn't a pint in gear. :? fun day. Too bad your ripped your coat.,
Its doubtful only because you doubt yourself. I bet I could have you redpointing 5.12's in a year if you would make climbing a reasonable priority.
And no, I'm not stronger than you. I just know how to channel my strength more efficiently. I have way better technique and know more about movement. You're strong, but you just can't focus the power. Besides if you climbed more you would get even stronger.
You have a lot of potential. That's why I try so hard to get you to climb more.
As I remember you did slip. It was that you nearly fell. :shock:
I think it would have been a bad scene if I would have went through with trying to lead it.
I still need to fix my shell. Luckily I ripped it in a place that doesn't matter too much. :?
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brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 12:22 AM
Post #123 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: Two months huh? That puts you at least another 20 climbing days behind me!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: In two months Brent and I are going to be in Nipigon sluggin' away at some killer ice. Ice season will hopefully be getting started here in another month or so.
i have to admit, that will be pretty hot!
Oh, looks like you have me all to yourself, Nate. Val isn't going up anymore.
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brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 12:28 AM
Post #124 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: If you were willing to put in the time I'm sure you could far eclipse me. I wanted nothing to do with leading that day at Swaze. I could tell that was a death trap just looking at it. I'm thinking of that route at the Dacks, when it was so damn cold. It was my lead and the ice was dinner plating so bad and my picks didn't feel like they were sticking worth a s---. That day at Swaze was scary. I thought for sure the whole thing was going to come crashing down with you on it. :shock: Rebecca wasn't the only one concerned for your safety. That was good for me though. It likely wasn't as crazy as we thought it was, other than the part of you having no gear. doubtful, Nate. You're so much stronger than I am. Oh, the route at the dacks!!! Yeah...that was FREAKIN scary. I actually almost slipped on that! But it was ok. The worst part was putting in that first screw, and getting over that bulge at the top, although the top bulge was well protected. Swaze that day was no problem. It wasn't bonded, no, cuz of all the water running. But there it's not steep enough to really fall. And there wasn't a pint in gear. :? fun day. Too bad your ripped your coat., Its doubtful only because you doubt yourself. I bet I could have you redpointing 5.12's in a year if you would make climbing a reasonable priority. And no, I'm not stronger than you. I just know how to channel my strength more efficiently. I have way better technique and know more about movement. You're strong, but you just can't focus the power. Besides if you climbed more you would get even stronger. You have a lot of potential. That's why I try so hard to get you to climb more. As I remember you did slip. It was that you nearly fell. :shock: I think it would have been a bad scene if I would have went through with trying to lead it. I still need to fix my shell. Luckily I ripped it in a place that doesn't matter too much. :?
well, i appreciate the compliment. It is inspirational, and I mean that.
I think part of the prob (all of the problem) is in my head that I am comfy on easy routes and actually like them a lot. Climbing 10's of 11's would be good but i can't see myself there and that is the start to bad events.
practice.
your shell will be fine. Check out community for the vids i posted (some good stuff there).
and the fall there would have been bad. I was 15 feet up or so. I think i had a good self belay on one tool, though.
amateur mistake! :D
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chossmonkey
Nov 7, 2006, 12:33 AM
Post #125 of 3415
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In reply to: In reply to: You might be a redleg if you flame Brent in the wrong thread. :nono: I am just helping this one get off the ground.
What's wrong with getting the other thread back on track?
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Re: !Alert! Brent_e thread threatens to swamp community!!!
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