Forums: Clubs: Mental Training: The Rock Warrior's Way:
Stress by rock type
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Mental Training: The Rock Warrior's Way

Premier Sponsor:

 


hdiddy


Nov 27, 2006, 6:39 PM
Post #1 of 5 (1253 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2004
Posts: 22

Stress by rock type
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I don't know if any of you have this problem but my mental framework varies by the type of rock that I'm climbing. When I hit up Taqhitz or Jtree I feel confident on the rock and feel like i can trust every thing, this really allows me to look into the RWW and face the challenge of the stone and move confidently with much less mental anguish than before. However the rock type changes and with that my mindset, particularly on conglomerate or low angle routes. I was checking out a local crag of all conglom rock with lots of hard slab routes. My partner shot up a 10b and i followed no problem however when i went to warm up and lead on a 8, well within my range, i found myself frustrated and unfocused. My mind strayed from the climbing to the loose nature of the rock and the fall potential regardless of how hard i tried to focus my mind on the climbing. I have this same type of problem with the rock at mission gorge in San Deigo, I wanted to know if anyone else has this sort of difficulty or if this is just my own problem.

Hap


iluvtoplayoutside


Dec 3, 2006, 8:14 PM
Post #2 of 5 (1229 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 27, 2006
Posts: 59

Re: [hdiddy] Stress by rock type [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes I have this problem also; I am not at all confident leading on slabby sandstone grades that I am very confident leading on vertical limestone. I learned to climb on limestone though, Shelf road is in my backyard. I mostly only climbed the limestone, but sometimes the slabby stuff is also around, and it has its own fun and I want to diversify as much as I can.

I've climbed on this slab 3 times now, and every time I began leading but got so freaked out I only made it half way; Thus the plan is now that I have a few more sessions just toproping on the sandstone and getting more confident and knowing what the rock will do/what I can do with it.

I'm also doing falling practice on the slab since falling on slab scares the crap out of me. Starting small of course I'm learning what to do on slab falls and becoming more confident that I can handle the situation.

After a few days of this I WILL do some easy lead climbing on the slabby sandsone...that is the plan anyhow!


arnoilgner


Dec 5, 2006, 9:08 PM
Post #3 of 5 (1208 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2003
Posts: 366

Re: [hdiddy] Stress by rock type [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hello hdiddy,
You must be more comfortable and used to climbing on granite and those areas you mentioned. The conglomerate must be outside your comfort zone. Sounds like a great opportunity to broaden your experience. Stress is caused by lack of experience. Get that experience on the rock that stresses you and it will go away.
arno


flyinglow


Dec 19, 2006, 6:06 PM
Post #4 of 5 (1147 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 11, 2005
Posts: 77

Re: [iluvtoplayoutside] Stress by rock type [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It definitely has a lot to do with what you're used to.

I'm quite comfortable on sandstone, as that's what i spend most of my outdoor time on, but am quite intimidated about leading on both limestone and the granite at jtree. the differences in the friction of both skin and shoe rubber are really amazing across different kinds of rock.

For me it takes a considerable amount of time to adjust to new rock types. Even sandstone in different areas of the country can be vastly different in texture and friction.


_fiend_


Feb 2, 2007, 1:31 PM
Post #5 of 5 (938 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2005
Posts: 104

Re: [arnoilgner] Stress by rock type [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
You must be more comfortable and used to climbing on granite and those areas you mentioned. The conglomerate must be outside your comfort zone. Sounds like a great opportunity to broaden your experience. Stress is caused by lack of experience. Get that experience on the rock that stresses you and it will go away.

That's what it boils down to really, how comfortable we feel with the rock type based on our own skills.

For example I know some people who feel comfortable on gritstone because there's good friction and you don't have to pull hard. But for me I'm scared shitless, sliding of smears and slopers with no proper bloody holds to use. For my style of climbing (positive holds give me physical security) it's the furthest outside my comfort zone.

I've found though, that although experience helps, and I've managed to get more accustomed to gritstone, it's still a stern challenge for me personally. I don't think the discomfort always "goes away" entirely.


Forums : Clubs : Mental Training: The Rock Warrior's Way

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$126.00 (10% off)
$62.96 (10% off)
$53.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook