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a-dog
Dec 2, 2006, 10:17 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Hi everyone! I am just wondering if anyone here has ever heard of or climbed the "Original Aid Route" on Mt. El Cajon in San Diego. I want to imrove my aid skills and systems before a spring time trip to yosemite, and an old guide shows that there is a 3-5 pitch route on Mt. El Cajon that was put up using aid back in the 60s or 70s. This would be a fun practice climb. Does anyone have any info on this climb? Thanks.
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a.a.
Dec 9, 2006, 2:21 AM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2004
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Not really what you were asking but since no one else has responded, Mt. Woodson is worth checking out for some really short practice. Aside from all of the obvious C1 cracks there are some harder aid seams scattered around. I found a pdf map online of all the various aid climbs out there but can't seem to find it. some searching might turn it up.
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blazesod
Dec 11, 2006, 7:31 PM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2002
Posts: 249
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I think the topo's used to be at available from the San Diego Climber's Coalition web site in PDF format. The site exists with only a single page now and I don't know why. It is a mystery. I remember seeing a new (2005?) San Diego county climbing guide at REI last time I was in San Diego. Maybe it covers El Cajon.
http://www.giantsoftware.com/sdcc
Cheers,
Dave :)
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bandycoot
Dec 11, 2006, 8:03 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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I don't think that there is a good continuous aid line out there off the top of my head and I've climbed most sides of the thing. I think that you're much better off aiding at Woodson, Mission Gorge (I remember the Wasp was pretty good practice), or I've heard Lowenbrow pinnacle has a great bolted overhung face to practice on. Woodson has great aid lines like Lie Detector.
Josh
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crotch
Dec 11, 2006, 8:06 PM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2003
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Lowenbrau Pinnacle is a great place to get your wall systems dialed.
edit: Bandycoot beat me to it.
(This post was edited by crotch on Dec 11, 2006, 8:07 PM)
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esoteric1
Dec 15, 2006, 3:58 PM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
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there are a few aid lines out at corte madera, steep stuff, didnt get close enough to see how sound the rock is but it looks good, other than that, ive seen some a3+ stuff to the left of the main crag in descanso, corte is probably your best bet as its multi pitch, but.....its closed....
sory
mark
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bandycoot
Dec 15, 2006, 4:26 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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esoteric1: What are the specifics of the closure? Is it seasonal raptor closure, or something else? I don't have my guide on me and I'm curious... I thought only part of the cliff was closed part of the time, but it's been a while since I looked into climbing there and I've only been out there once a long time ago.
Josh
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esoteric1
Dec 18, 2006, 4:28 PM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
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fires swept through that area earlier this season, and from what ive gathered from the rangers, the gate is closed for the clean up, it was supposed to open in november but, since they are using that access road to smuggle illegal aliens in...its been closed until further notice. there are still other ways in, but some include real long walks, crossing private property, and super gnarley 4 wheel drive roads....
mark
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bandycoot
Dec 18, 2006, 5:05 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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Thanks for the reply. I just got an e-mail today that said Corte Madera is now closed due to bird nesting. It didn't sound like a conditional closure... it sounded like a complete closure. Very unfortunate if true. Can anyone verify this?
Josh
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esoteric1
Dec 18, 2006, 5:35 PM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
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who was the email from? in the old hubbard guide, the closure is listed from feb1-june31 , i dont know if anything has changed, and im not even sure that that closure is mandatory, from what ive heard it was just kennedy that put it in in the book. although i do agree with it...no use in bothering the birds while nesting.
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bandycoot
Dec 18, 2006, 10:32 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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I don't want to start rumors, but I've heard from two people today via e-mail that the whole crag (and possibly others?) could be shut down for good... I PROMISE that I will post more when I have more concrete information. Sounds like SD is going to have to get up in arms this year....
Josh
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