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sven_climbersen


Dec 3, 2006, 9:32 AM
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Radom Anchors  (North_America: Canada: Ontario: Golden_Horseshoe: Rattlesnake_Point)
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What's with all the randomly placed anchors recently installed at the top of Rattlesnake?
Shocked


Partner alexmac


Dec 3, 2006, 10:48 AM
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Re: [sven_climbersen] Radom Anchors [In reply to]
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sven_climbersen wrote:
What's with all the randomly placed anchors recently installed at the top of Rattlesnake?
Shocked

Your not paying attention to your local access committee are you ?

The anchors are for top roping, they are to be tested by an eningeering company (pull tested) and then the rest of the routes bolted.

A then NO trees ban will be in affect for the entire area.

There is a top roping ban going into Kelso, thanks to people who still wrap the cedars (oldest trees west of the rockies, 2 feet high and look dead)... PS Kelso is currently closed to climbing (not that it matters its winter)


(This post was edited by alexmac on Dec 3, 2006, 10:51 AM)


sven_climbersen


Dec 3, 2006, 3:07 PM
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Re: [alexmac] Radom Anchors [In reply to]
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No, I have not been paying attention to the access committee (where would I find out about their recent activities)

Yes, I know they are for top roping.

I guess "randomly placed" was they key to my post.

why are they placed where they are?. They don't seem to be in the right spots.


Partner alexmac


Dec 3, 2006, 7:15 PM
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Re: [sven_climbersen] Radom Anchors [In reply to]
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sven_climbersen wrote:
No, I have not been paying attention to the access committee (where would I find out about their recent activities)

Yes, I know they are for top roping.

I guess "randomly placed" was they key to my post.

why are they placed where they are?. They don't seem to be in the right spots.

For the Toronto and Ontario http://www.climbers.org/access/ try there.

The bolts are not random , just selected routes have been bolted, the rest will be done after the engineering study has been completed.

Trust me, some of the bolting going on is done by people wiser and more involved that either one of us.

I look forward to them completing the project and maybe the bus loads of tourists will stop trying to untie top rope anchors (seen with my own eyes).


cam


Dec 3, 2006, 8:43 PM
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Re: [alexmac] Radom Anchors [In reply to]
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Yeah, let me jump in here. The anchors at Rattlesnake were installed by the Ontario Access Coalition in co-operation with Halton Region Conservation. The bolts were installed as a test project preceeding a full top anchor project pending approval after pull-testing is completed. The goal is to eliminate the need to use trees as anchors.

All of the bolting associated with this project is being done by a few very experienced and very oldWink , salty climbers.

As for Kelso, yes the crag is temporarily closed for the winter for maintenance. Depending on the success of the Rattlesnake bolting project, Kelso could be a very good candidate for a second project.

The link provided above to the ACC access page is our current internet forum and admittedly is in an incomplete state. We are working on getting that fully updated.

Any Q's, feel free to send me a PM.

Regards,
Mike Warnock

Ontario Access Coalition
Former Halton Portfolio Manager
Current Member At Large


(This post was edited by cam on Dec 3, 2006, 8:46 PM)


Partner alexmac


Dec 3, 2006, 8:44 PM
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Re: [cam] Radom Anchors [In reply to]
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Thanks Cam, well said :) Trophy! :)

Alex


sven_climbersen


Dec 4, 2006, 3:24 PM
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Re: [alexmac] Radom Anchors [In reply to]
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Thank you for the information.

Bolted top anchors are a great idea.

I'm glad to hear that they were placed wisely and will be tested.

Take care

P.S. any initiative that helps to ensure that our crags remain open is a good one.

Good job access committee


Partner alexmac


Dec 4, 2006, 4:43 PM
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Re: [sven_climbersen] Radom Anchors [In reply to]
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sven_climbersen wrote:
Thank you for the information.

Bolted top anchors are a great idea.

I'm glad to hear that they were placed wisely and will be tested.

Take care

P.S. any initiative that helps to ensure that our crags remain open is a good one.

Good job access committee


Agree 1000% , good work!


gunkiemike


Dec 4, 2006, 5:27 PM
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Re: [alexmac] Radom Anchors [In reply to]
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Forgive me, I'm not a local to that area. But what is so unique about the rock there that requires pull testing of the anchors? Is the Access Committee not convinced by decades of bolt use that these pieces of hardware are strong enough for TR anchors?

As I say, I'm not a local. Just askin'.


cam


Dec 5, 2006, 9:23 PM
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Re: [gunkiemike] Radom Anchors [In reply to]
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Pull testing was included in the process as an assurance to the powers that be within the HRCA and it's governing boards. Believe it or not, the good folks that make policy aren't neccessarily climbers...or informed on climbing practices for that matter. The Access Coalition has every confidence in the bolts. It's the laymen that need reassurance. It's a very minor, but very neccessary step to demonstrate the reliability of the anchors to those who are new to such things. It boils down to liability. They need to know that the anchors are sound and will not fail, resulting in injury or death and inevitaby, legal action.

Cheers.


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