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herbaltee
Dec 11, 2006, 7:16 PM
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Hey All,
My name is HerbalTee and I'm the new route database manager for Oregon. I'm going to work on cleaning up the Smith section in addition to adding info on many of the climbing areas in Oregon. My goal is to get a good overview of climbs in Oregon and hopefully new routes yet to be put up in the climbing guides.
As for me personally I work at the Outdoor Program at the University of Oregon and I am a 4 year undergrad. If you have any input or questions let me know.
Cheers!
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lazysummerdays
Dec 11, 2006, 9:00 PM
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The place called Ozone, off highway 14 outside of Vancouver mile marker 23 park accross the street from the giant billboard, I can't even find it in here, but It is by FAR the best climbing in the Area... (huge cracked ceilings, nice unpolished rock, well protected routes, nice exposure) it's like a legal madrone.
There are lots of other areas not covered, Lake Oswego, Canby etc.
if you have questions, or want topos, email me at lazy_summer_days@comcast.net
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healyje
Dec 11, 2006, 10:03 PM
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Your enthusiasm and intent are clearly positive, but not everyone wants this kind of info published. You may want to get ahold of the locals at various crags and find out if folks really want them published this way.
(This post was edited by healyje on Dec 11, 2006, 10:04 PM)
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herbaltee
Dec 11, 2006, 11:04 PM
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I'm thinking more like places like the Northern Point at Smith which has a ton of climbs that aren't in the Alan Watts book. Or places like Sisters Boulders where its only in the Falcon guide. Super obscure places, I'll contact that locals but stuff that everyone goes word of mouth then I'm more inclined to include.
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lazysummerdays
Dec 11, 2006, 11:54 PM
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Personally, I hate this pretentious, elitist nature that is inherent in rock climbers. So what if these grizzled "hard men" were outcasts in highschool, and didn't get their own table in the lunch room, a crag on public land doesn't get to be: "their place" just to make up for that. Every route I've ever established, and every area I've cleaned, is, in my mind, open to whomever wants to climb it. Therefore, I believe, that if you have information, which would benefit the whole, then it is your duty to share it. Furthermore, if I ever hear another person claim to climb for the love of the creation, and to have a personal relationship with the rock, then turn around and deny another person the chance for the same, I'm afraid I'm gonna have to lay them out. Now, I'm not about to go photocopying my madrone guides, and leaving them at the counter at Club Sport, but, I am going to do my part to put the information out there, for the people who are seeking it out.
(This post was edited by lazysummerdays on Dec 12, 2006, 12:02 AM)
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moose_droppings
Dec 12, 2006, 12:24 AM
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lazysummerdays wrote: Personally, I hate this pretentious, elitist nature that is inherent in rock climbers. So what if these grizzled "hard men" were outcasts in highschool, and didn't get their own table in the lunch room, a crag on public land doesn't get to be: "their place" just to make up for that. Every route I've ever established, and every area I've cleaned, is, in my mind, open to whomever wants to climb it.
But you want people to enjoy your route. Thought you don't like others calling it "theirs".
Pot calling kettle black.
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herbaltee
Dec 12, 2006, 9:19 AM
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Hey all, calm down about the access issue. We are all in it for the same thing. Getting to the top of a climb and hopefully back down.
As I said earlier, I'll try to use best judgment. If a crag is real small or access is in doubt (i.e. its on private land or so small that large flocks of people could potentially ruin it) then I'll talk to the locals because I know it takes a lot of time and hardwork to get places developed. If its like Sisters bouldering area where it is huge and it has spread word of mouth then I'll be more inclined to include it in the route database.
The debates about elitism and stuff like that should be left at the door, its about getting people outside and hopefully respecting the traditions of the past that have made what we do so great.
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hemp22
Dec 12, 2006, 6:23 PM
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lazysummerdays wrote: There are lots of other areas not covered, Lake Oswego, Canby etc.
Lazy, where is there any semblance of climbing in Canby? that's a new one to me. Let me know the location if you could. (PM me if you prefer).
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lazysummerdays
Dec 12, 2006, 6:53 PM
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there are several small, undeveloped (mainly) areas, I live in Canemah, and have a basalt line two blocks from my house, which has about 5 routes worth doing. topping out at 10a two miles down, across from rock island, there is a small cliff (40-50ft) which half of has been cleaned by us, this has almost a dozen lines on it, and access isn't a problem. we haven't bothered cleaning the rest because it looks to be really poor quality under all the ivy.
Basically, it is the same line that leaves Waterboard park.
There are boulders off rock island (but you need a boat to get to the good stuff), and knights bridge rd. a good boulder field with 20 boulders behind the pioneer cemetary of which we have only cleaned a handful and decided it wasn't worth the walk in with Carver being so close.... although, some nights we get drunk and decide to screw around up there, or set anchors off the bike route, and climb above the train tracks.... i don't recomend that to the sober or the sane.
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lazysummerdays
Dec 12, 2006, 7:10 PM
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I just realized how negative my previous post was... I don't mean it that way at all... there are some GREAT climbs out here, we are just overshadowed by Carver and Madrone being so close. I personally think that 3 or 4 of the climbs out here ought to be on everybodies must climb list... chalk them up as short and intense.... and unbolted.
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bob_54b
Dec 13, 2006, 9:32 AM
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You've certainly taken on quite a task: wish you luck ahead of time and don't be discouraged by the inevitable mass of criticism on everything from the ratings (oh man, that's not 11b, it's c) to your having actually tried to do it (the keep it secret thing, like this is the Lost World or something). I used to publish a couple of guides in CA and it's just amazing the flak you get from people who can't do anything outside of gripe. Most of them can't even climb worth a #$%^, just remember that.
Anyway, we used to live in La Grande and were the first lunatics to begin developing Spring Mountain out there. There's a guy at Whitman who maintains a website on that place. It's pretty good place and worth inclusion. There's also Hi Valley near La Grande.
Best of luck.................bob branscomb
(This post was edited by bob_54b on Dec 13, 2006, 9:38 AM)
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freeforsum
Dec 13, 2006, 11:57 AM
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bob_54b wrote: Anyway, we used to live in La Grande and were the first lunatics to begin developing Spring Mountain out there.
Spring Mt. Super great and fun climbing, if you like blatantly bolted cracks. I pointed this out to Kevin (developer) who happened to be strolling by one day about 2 years ago. His response, “what bolted cracks”. I pointed the 10.b out at the first big open area. Its bolted in the beginning, which is a good job. Then it turns into a crack at the top. He said it wasn’t a bolted crack. I proceeded to lead it on gear.
Phopes direct. 10.d, way down at the end. 3 bolts leads you to a perfect crack system. But he bolted it all the way up. Lame.
Oh well, thought I would give you my two cents about the place. Don’t get me wrong, I love climbing there. Leave your rack in the car.
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herbaltee
Dec 13, 2006, 11:13 PM
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Just to give an update on whats happening...
I've put up a map to the Sister Boulders. Google maps isn't the best, but it gives a general location to the point you can see it.
I also updated French's Dome with numbers so people can see what climb is first and move from there...Hopefully there will be a transition to that numbering scheme (at least on smaller crags).
Next up will be long/lat stuff on most of the climbs I can locate.
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kpinwalla2
Dec 14, 2006, 9:57 PM
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bob_54b is full of #$@% - there are NO "bolted cracks" at Spring Mtn. - and there's not even a route called "Phopes direct". There a few bolts near cracks so you don't have to carry a full rack for two pieces of gear on what would otherwise be a long sport climb. And there are at least a dozen developers at Spring Mountain and I didn't put up Phoups which is probably what you meant when you said "Phopes direct".Go climb somewhere else if you don't like it, or do what you said you did and place the gear and skip the "convenience bolts" - but for god's sake spare us the grousing. People like you make me sick. SICK, do you hear? Get a life! Appreciate all the hard work that went into developing the place instead of being such a whiner!
kevin
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herbaltee
Dec 14, 2006, 10:36 PM
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I have no idea what you two are arguing about but there is a route next to Phoups that is Phoups Direct. It is a 5.10d. Its in the Falcon Guide in Spring Mtn North Talus Field. But again I'm confused what you two are arguing about...
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bob_54b
Dec 15, 2006, 8:52 AM
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actually it wasn't me that was grousing about Spring Mtn., it was freeforsome responding to my post about the place. I liked the place myself when we were first working out there so, whatever, geez.
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herbaltee
Dec 17, 2006, 9:44 PM
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For all the hard work in the Smith section. I will be consolidating as much as I can and re-organizing it. I need to get my old copy of the Alan Watts book, but once that happens expect things to move around a bit.
I have also added google maps to a bunch of places. The Eastern Oregon section is pretty much done as best I could. Spring Mtn, Burnt River Canyon, High Valley and Anthony Lake have maps to get there and hopefully update descriptions.
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wrbill
Dec 18, 2006, 12:06 AM
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Hey HerbalTee if you could remove the collier cliffs and the williamson wall areas from the database that would be great. The Williamson Cliffs are the same area. By removing them we will not have three areas coving the same crags. Thanks for the wanting to clean up the database. If you have a question about the area let me know. I am working on a guide for the area. There is 95 plus routes right now with more routes going in. Thanks again!
Bill
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wrbill
Dec 18, 2006, 4:24 PM
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Herbaltee, Thanks for taking care of that.
Bill
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freeforsum
Dec 20, 2006, 9:13 AM
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kpinwalla2 wrote: bob_54b is full of #$@% - there are NO "bolted cracks" at Spring Mtn. - and there's not even a route called "Phopes direct". There a few bolts near cracks so you don't have to carry a full rack for two pieces of gear on what would otherwise be a long sport climb. And there are at least a dozen developers at Spring Mountain and I didn't put up Phoups which is probably what you meant when you said "Phopes direct".Go climb somewhere else if you don't like it, or do what you said you did and place the gear and skip the "convenience bolts" - but for god's sake spare us the grousing. People like you make me sick. SICK, do you hear? Get a life! Appreciate all the hard work that went into developing the place instead of being such a whiner! kevin
Sorry Kev. I misspelled Phopes direct. Great climb, done it three times. But you must be blind. The last three “Convenient bolts” are right next to beautiful cracks. And I led it on gear. I met you at the base on Memorial Day weekend 3 years ago. I asked you why you bolted a lot of cracks. You stated there were no bolted cracks. I then led the top half of the huge crack in the first open area (don’t remember the name) on gear. Lame. Whatever, I respect the FA above all else, even I don’t agree. I was not trying bash Spring Mt. I love climbing there and will continue to make the journey there from Ptown. But don’t go around stating lies that “there are no bolted cracks there”. What about Flake off. I also led this completely on gear.
I have also developed a crag recently, so I appreciate the hard work you have put in. But “your crag” has stigmata on it. Spring Mt. the land of bolted cracks. I know you don’t want to hear this. Tuff shit. You bolted it.
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lazysummerdays
Dec 23, 2006, 4:46 PM
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I don't think a few bolted cracks is that bad of a thing. Don't most people that get started in climbing these days buy draws, rope and a harness? Them getting involved in the sport ultimately benefits you far more than it hinders you. You may not believe me, but be glad that climbing doesn't have the failing industry that alot of sports do. ie: Rollerskating/blading, windsurfing, rally racing etc... You climb in a day and age where companies can sponor competitions, and aid in access issues, rather than barely survive enough to get you your gear while feeding their families.
So, if 3 or 4 bolted cracks out of 50 gets people to try crack climbing, and ultimately buy trad gear (as it did for me) means you get to buy your cams for under 80 bucks a piece, i think you are getting a good deal.
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lazysummerdays
Dec 23, 2006, 5:04 PM
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Oh Herbal, Waterboard is pretty much a lost cause. I live a block away, and walked up there yesterday. Developers on the cliff above, have tossed all their trash down onto it, several climbs have lost 3-4 ft because of mud, all the trees tossed down block off about half the bolted lines.
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herbaltee
Jan 5, 2007, 10:32 PM
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I'll keep Waterboard in the database. Hopefully we can get a cleanup of the area. REI and AccessFund anyone?
Anywho...In terms of updates I have moved a lot of areas at Smith Rock so it follows the Alan Watts guide. I've also cleaned it up a little and deleted some stuff.
Next on the docket will be moving stuff to the correct wall in an area.
I'll also be getting the beta on stuff in Umpqua and Rouge areas. At least the google maps will be correct and all that kind of stuff.
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healyje
Jan 6, 2007, 2:49 AM
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lazysummerdays wrote: I don't think a few bolted cracks is that bad of a thing. Don't most people that get started in climbing these days buy draws, rope and a harness? Them getting involved in the sport ultimately benefits you far more than it hinders you. You may not believe me, but be glad that climbing doesn't have the failing industry that alot of sports do. ie: Rollerskating/blading, windsurfing, rally racing etc... You climb in a day and age where companies can sponor competitions, and aid in access issues, rather than barely survive enough to get you your gear while feeding their families. So, if 3 or 4 bolted cracks out of 50 gets people to try crack climbing, and ultimately buy trad gear (as it did for me) means you get to buy your cams for under 80 bucks a piece, i think you are getting a good deal.
I'd personally like to see the whole industry and sport collapse. More people create access problems - not solve them. That's some pretty perverse logic that says that more people causing access problems can support industry that will then intervene to help resolve those problems - circular at best. Better that there are fewer people climbing, not more. Bolting cracks to "get them involved" is just wrong in so many ways it's hard to imagine anyone actually saying such a thing...
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freeforsum
Jan 6, 2007, 11:53 AM
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healyje wrote: I'd personally like to see the whole industry and sport collapse. More people create access problems - not solve them. That's some pretty perverse logic that says that more people causing access problems can support industry that will then intervene to help resolve those problems - circular at best. Better that there are fewer people climbing, not more. Bolting cracks to "get them involved" is just wrong in so many ways it's hard to imagine anyone actually saying such a thing...
I am going to have to agree with Joe. "a few bolted cracks" is a very bad thing. Always respect the climbers that came before you/me. They would not like to see "bolted cracks". A bolt next to "possible" gear is one thing, but Spring Mt. is something else entirely. Getting more people into our sport is also bad. Less is better.
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