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abkaiser
Sep 13, 2002, 4:29 PM
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Well, are they? Or have they been replaced by dynos? In what cirucmstance would you ever use a Figure 4 instead of a dyno?
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data118
Sep 13, 2002, 4:37 PM
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I've seen a picture of this guy doing a figure 4 on ice. Definitely can't do a dyno in that situation.
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punk
Sep 13, 2002, 4:41 PM
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Yep ,they are still on.
especially on ice (unless u one of "Vertical limits" casting person) also an improvisation call the figure 9. it still being used and quite often if I can say (by more technically incline climbers) on rock to stick a crimps, digits, nubbins and mono pockets where static movement is the only way to go otherwise the "Sharma maneuver" and flailing is the rad
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daisuke
Sep 13, 2002, 4:55 PM
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you can use it when you suck at dynoing (like I do), but I find the move so complicated to get in and out of that I've never used it except to actually see if I could do it
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qacwac
Sep 13, 2002, 5:04 PM
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They're more common on plastic than real rock (so I've read) Francois Legrande used one in the 91 world championship to beat Yuji. (You used to could download a video from Udini.com, not sure now) In another comp he used like 4 in a row and won the comp.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 5:15 PM
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It's weird– you'd think you'd be seeing them more now days, as so many up and coming climbers are ULTRA static movers.
I agree, though, you mostly just hear about them in reall hard ice and mixed climbing.
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dustinap
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Sep 13, 2002, 5:24 PM
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I've used both a figure 9 and a figure 4. The figure 9 worked much better for me, but only because teh figure 4 was kind of in a situation like this. "Hmm, this will work and it'll look way cool."
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chuckd278
Sep 13, 2002, 6:04 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2002
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yep on ice but I have never on rock. You can't do a lot of moving around on ice sometimes and a figure 4 can allow you to maintain a steady platform while trying to produce a move. Im not a good ice climber by any means, but it helped me pull a move I thought I would never get.
Chuck
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carabiner86
Sep 15, 2002, 3:09 AM
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Does anyone know where I can find a good picture of someone doing a Figure 4? I've never seen one done before.
Thanks!
Biner
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stow
Sep 18, 2002, 12:34 PM
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Pierre Precieuse(Font 6c+/7a)at 95.2 in Fontainebleau is the only problem I know of that is made easier using a figure four. The hold you are reaching for is a sloper so it is easier static. Dynamically it's about a 7a+ I think. A photo of the figure four can be seen at membres.lycos.fr/bleaulu in the album section of the site.
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rado
Sep 18, 2002, 1:29 PM
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Try this link:
http://www.climbing.com/Pages/Techtip_pages/201/techtip201_alpine.html
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