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clifton crags.....
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stashyboy


Dec 18, 2006, 3:49 PM
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Registered: May 11, 2004
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clifton crags.....  (North_America: United_States: Maine)
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Does anyone have beta they are willing to share about this area? My dad still lives downeast and we go to visit a couple times a year, so we drive through the Bangor area. On our way down on Rt. 9 heading east toward Calais are two crags....one with a cell tower on top. I've hiked up there and found a few bolted sport routes on the steep south face. Anyone familiar with it?


altelis


Dec 18, 2006, 4:05 PM
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Re: [stashyboy] clifton crags..... [In reply to]
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hey, i used to go to colby and we climbed there ALL the time.

great routes to be found (along with some crap)
be prepared for slab (though great slab) with very crystaline granite. at eagle's bluff crag check out bivy ledge (5.8) and where eagles dare (.9-10, i think), wheaties (.9, bring a nut for the opening moves, bolted after tha)....and a short little .10d below the practice wall.

heads up on gear routes here---the rock is VERY crystaline and when placing gear make sure that you aren't caught up on a crystal nubbin but actually on rock-----i've seen numerouse accidents due to gear popping, and to the best of my recolection it was all gear popping crystals (a compound tib fracture, a shattered ankle, dislocated ankle, etc)

check out acadia mountain guides for a guide book (cheap and very useful, there are like 4 or 5 other crags, all great. http://www.acadiamountainguides.com/----they are in orono, 92 Main Street, across from St Mary's Cathedral and Main View Apartments


stashyboy


Dec 18, 2006, 4:10 PM
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Re: [altelis] clifton crags..... [In reply to]
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Thanks Altelis-
Sounds like the rock is more of a pegmatite (longer cooling time, bigger crystals)maybe more like J-Tree. I've been to the Acadia Guides location in Bar Harbor..didn't know about the Bangor location....


altelis


Dec 18, 2006, 4:18 PM
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Re: [stashyboy] clifton crags..... [In reply to]
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i've been to joshua tree.....
some differences-----
-rock scultped nothing like jtree
-crystals are so much larger as the rock is FULLLLLLLLL of them
-not nearly as slabby and you climb edges and not pockets/dimples
-not nearly the friction as jtree

that being said, there are some wonderful routes and great climbing, and there are some pretty nice multipitch climbs to be had (some bolted, some not) have fun!!!!


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