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dripdry
Dec 24, 2006, 10:04 AM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2005
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I'm planning on taking a trip down there in January for a week (if we still have this warm winter)... but from what I can gather, are there still all these issues? Trash everywhere? Vandalism? Elitist bolt-cutting cock-mongers (as valiant as they may feel they are being)?
It all sounds like a bit much, and if we've (partner and I) got to endure that much just to enjoy a week of climbing, I think it might be better to go elsewhere.
Also, is there any place around there to buy the Dixie Cragger's Guide?
Thanks.
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organic
Dec 24, 2006, 11:27 AM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Dude if you are going all the way there why not just go to Horse Pens 40?
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wzrdgandalf
Dec 24, 2006, 12:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2004
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I second the HP advice. If you have your heart set on route climbing though, you should definately think about foster falls in Tennessee, Little river canyon (if you are climbing super hard) near Sandrock, or hell just go to the red river gorge its some of the best climbing in the states.
Sandrock is a good climbing spot if you are from the southeast and have been to all the other destination spots like HP40 before. Otherwise i wouldnt bother with it. I think that Foster Falls is better for routes anyway and not too far away.
If you have any questions about stuff to go climb here in the southeast PM me and ill be glad to give you any help i can give.
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dripdry
Dec 25, 2006, 7:15 AM
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Regarding HPs 40, we're set on doing routes. Thanks, though.
Regarding being farther north? Depending on the weather (since it'll be the coldest time of the year), we could be a little farther north, but basically I refuse to go on vacation and shiver, especially if I'm climbing. No colder than 45 degrees for climbing, thank you, unless it's ice climbing.
A few weeks ago it was 73 degrees at Sand Rock... so we'll see.
Thanks for the advice about Little River Canyon and Foster. If the weather stays warm that might be our ticket.
Me? I'd much rather drive down to Texas, but my partner isn't quite as die-hard about driving 18-20 hours. Psh. :)
Thanks again for the advice.
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wzrdgandalf
Dec 25, 2006, 7:58 AM
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It looks like the Red River Gorge will be nice in the next few weeks, highs of 50 and lows of 32. If you really want to get some kick ass climbing in then you will go there. Maybe im just jaded by the southeast, but I think its a better idea to go to kentucky and climb there. New river Gorge is a possibility as well. Any specific types of routes you are looking for?
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rjtrials
Dec 25, 2006, 8:37 AM
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Definately avoid Sandrock in favor of Foster Falls or Obed. Both are closer to you, the camping is a just as good and there will be less trash & graffiti.
Most of the walls at Fosters catch sun all day as does South Clear Creek. Even if the temps dip, climbing in the sun is doable.
DrTopo has info for both Fosters and Obed. You can purchase a Dixie Craggers from Rock Creek in Chattanooga.
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saxfiend
Dec 25, 2006, 4:54 PM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2004
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Okay, since everyone else is dumping on it, I'm going to put in a good word for Sandrock.
Unless you're planning to do sport climbing to the exclusion of all else, I'd pick Sandrock over Fosters for a week-long trip. If you feel like trad climbing one day and sport climbing the next, Fosters isn't the place (it's sport only). Sandrock has some really fine trad lines like White Gold and Pin Chimney and especially Comfortably Numb (R-rated pro, though). On the sport side, Misty and Midget Digits are just two of the great routes. And just about anything that's too hard for you to lead can be toproped. The variety is nice too -- crack climbing, face climbing, overhanging jug hauls and so on.
As for the trash problem at Sandrock, it's really not that big a deal. Sure, there's some discarded bottle and cans, but it's not like the place is a dump. The graffiti in places is annoying, but are you on a scenic tour, or are you looking for good climbing?
Hell, if you're going to be around for a week, spend some time at both Sandrock and Fosters, they aren't that far apart.
JL
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noell
Dec 25, 2006, 5:20 PM
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I live in TN, and if you are looking for warmish weather to climb in, and thats why you are choosing Sandrock, well, I'd definitely consider the Obed and the other areas people have mentioned (Fosters, LRC). The weather really doesn't vary THAT much from place to place down here. I don't think you'd notice a huge difference so long as you climb at a sunny wall.
I do think you'd notice a huge difference though if you chose to go to a place that has a guidebook to it or not- there's not a published book for LRC to my knowledge. I don't know anything about Sandrock. The Obed is in Dixie Cragger for sure, and has great sunny walls with routes of all grades. I don't revel in climbing in the cold and on a 30 degree day, at Tierrany (Obed) I can climb in a light shirt and pants so long as it's sunny - that place is like an oven! It's fantastic!
Have fun on your trip!
(This post was edited by noell on Dec 25, 2006, 5:21 PM)
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chaingang
Dec 25, 2006, 7:51 PM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2005
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Sandrock and Obed both offer first class route climbing. Trad and sport. Obed has some decent bouldering as well, at Lily boulders, if you find you need a break from the route climbing. Both destinations are okay in the winter as long as there is some sun. Obed is breathtakingly beautiful (it's a national park), but some of the climbing areas require a short hike. Camping at Obed is somewhat limited, Dell's place and a park campground with only about ten sites, but you'll likely be the only camper in the winter. The Obed rangers are very helpful, and at least one is a climber. If you stop at the Obed ranger station in Wartburg they can direct you to the best areas for climbing in your range, as well as those that stay dry if it should rain. At Sandrock most climbs are just a short walk from the parking/camping areas. Locals aren't really a problem, trash isn't too bad, and the grafitti is somewhat limited to a small area near the main parking lot. The area is well used, but also well worth visiting.
You won't be disappointed with either of these destinations, and both offer well over a week of climbing.
(This post was edited by chaingang on Dec 25, 2006, 7:55 PM)
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fishman
Dec 30, 2006, 9:31 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2006
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i love sandrock, it is my home crag. most of the negative stuff i have read about it is not really true in my opinion. for about the last year i've been going there about once a week and i find the locals to not be a problem what so ever (all of them i've run into are either friendly or indifferent) the trash isnt awful (i hate seeing such a beautiful area with any litter but its not like wading through garbage) and the routes are awesome. next time i'll be out there is the 12th, but shoot me a pm if you're out there around then, i'll be sure to point you in the direction of my favorite climbs there.
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sjg0002
May 6, 2009, 3:40 PM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2009
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Hey all,
I am gonna be at Sandrock on the May 9th for the day, anybody have any recommendations on specific routes or general areas? I'm looking for sport routes that are beginner/intermediate difficulty level.
Thanks for the help.
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Valarc
May 6, 2009, 4:08 PM
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Registered: Apr 19, 2007
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If you go to sand rock and think it's anything other than a pile of shit filled with white trash, you might just be white trash yourself 
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Valarc
May 6, 2009, 4:12 PM
Post #13 of 15
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Registered: Apr 19, 2007
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Now for the real question that a years-old thread was resurrected for...
There's a lot of beginner / intermediate stuff. There are plenty of easy to rig 5.4-5.6ish routes you can toprope on Jaws Block if you've got beginners with you.
Lots of good 8s and 9s to be had too - Kennel Club (aka "that eight") springs to mind immediately for an eight. If you can get to the top to rig a toprope, Comfortably Numb is well worth roping up for. One of the best 9's there. Theses are both in the "beginner area" right near the parking lot, so it will be crowded - if you're looking for beginner routes that might be a plus since there will be people to help if you break your ass, and the fat ass alabama paramedics won't have to walk far to carry you out.
Still, it's a shit pile, you're better off at Foster's
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sjg0002
May 6, 2009, 5:31 PM
Post #14 of 15
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Registered: Feb 18, 2009
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Ill definitely check those ones out! You mentioned top rope, are those routes bolted too? We are mostly looking for 7,8,and 9's that have bolts.
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fishman
May 6, 2009, 6:34 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2006
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not a ton of bolted 7 8 or 9s there...only two come to mind: kennel club, 8 and my dog has fleas, 8+ most of the ones mentioned for toproping are not bolted
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