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talons05
Sep 26, 2001, 7:23 PM
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Hey, i've just recently started sport (been doing trad for a while) because it's convenient and not so gear-dependent. Question: What is the preferred method for clipping in. Do you clip the bolt, then bring the rope to it? Do you clip the rope, then the bolt?
Thanks
AW
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paulc
Sep 26, 2001, 7:34 PM
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I clip the bolt then the rope, I figure that with all the unclipping from harness and moving the draw up the last thing that I need to be doing at the same time is to be dragging the rope up to the bolt. I suppose that depending on the route it may make sense to do it the other way, ie: clip the rope end of the draw first and then just clip the bolt, but only for really funky situations.
Just my opinion.
Paul
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arete2
Sep 26, 2001, 7:52 PM
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I always clip the bolt first, then I clip the rope. I find it to be less messing around, and I think it is easier to clip the rope than it is to clip the bolt, so I get the blot when my hands are less tired, and quick clip the rope and keep climbing. But, that is just me everyone is different, that is how I learned.
Enoch
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rck_climber
Sep 26, 2001, 7:56 PM
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Like the others, I always clip the bolt first. The main reason is that the rope going through the draw creates alot of drag and is extremely difficult to yank and pull up to the bolt, especially when you can barely reach it as it is. Furthermore, that severely limits the ability to pull up on the rope, get a bite on it with your mouth while you reach down for another arm-length of thread.
In fact, have never seen it done either; not to say it's not done by some on occasion - just never seen it before.
Mick
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dean585
Sep 26, 2001, 8:01 PM
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bolt first then rope, ive never done it any other way but i climb more trad than sport so im not a real sport expert, but ive never seen any one else reverse it
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talons05
Sep 26, 2001, 8:55 PM
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Dean, that's been my problem too: i'm mainly a trad climber. A lot of times, I'll clip a quickdraw into the rope,and then into a piece of pro. Maybe I'm just weird. So far though, it seems the consensus is: "Clip the bolt first!"
Thanks, I appreciate any help I can get...
AW
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jds100
Sep 27, 2001, 1:47 AM
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For most situations, clipping the bolt first is easier since you don't have to carry and hold the weight of the rope with the draw as you're trying to clip the bolt. You can also be sure to clip the draw correctly, with the rope coming out the draw, back to front, and avoid back-clipping. You probably already, know, but I'll say it anyway: back-clipping risks the carabiner opening in the event of a fall because the rope can easily pass over the gate and open it as the rope falls past.
To be honest, on a desperate or hard project, that draw already on the bolt has provided a quick handle to grab, too. Sorry. I feel so cheap now.
[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2001-09-26 18:48 ]
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anomaly
Sep 27, 2001, 5:59 AM
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You mean you're not supposed to do that? I thought once it was clipped, it became a legal hold.
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fiend
Sep 27, 2001, 6:03 AM
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The nylon jugs are in!
I will ocasionally rack a draw backwards to fire the rope end onto the rope then pull it to the bolt. Depends on the height, drag factor, etc. but it can make for extremely rapid clips. If you don't bungle the clip that is.
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krillen
Oct 11, 2001, 5:01 PM
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That wouldbe my argument. I fyou clip the rope first you risk dropping the draw, and on a long route you may need that draw. If you clip the bolt first, the worst that can happen is you drop the rope, fall and take a long fall.
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rck_climber
Oct 11, 2001, 5:43 PM
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Actually, Krillen, that brings up a good point...
As far as cleaning a route (I seem to be doing alot of that lately - I'm the designated clean queen), I was always taught to unclip the bolt first rather than the rope. Reason is because if I drop the draw after I unclip it from the bolt first, it just slides down the rope to the next draw (or my harness, if cleaning on my way up seconding the route); whereas if I unclip the rope first and then drop it unclipping the bolt, it's sailing to the floor.
What about you guys?
Mick
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krillen
Oct 11, 2001, 6:36 PM
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Pretty much same as you said...but it inadvertently changes evey know and again depending on the situation.
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paulc
Oct 11, 2001, 6:47 PM
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Yeah, bolt end first on the clean, and then clip to the harness before unclipping from the rope.
Another good trick if the route wanders is to clip a draw into the rope that goes down to your belayer from the anchor that way you don't have to pendulam across the wall and risk shredding your rope. Just watch out when you un-clip the last draw. At that point I usually unclip from the belayers rope so that only I get the big swing when the last bolt is unclipped.
Paul
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compclimber
Oct 11, 2001, 7:21 PM
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Definetly paulc you dont want to yank your belayer off the wall too.....but you gotta love the big swing
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wandt
Oct 13, 2001, 9:19 AM
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I clip the bolt first too.
Does anyone else here only clip the rope into the draw when you're about waist-level with the draw? I like doing this because you don't have to take up big bytes of rope or tire your shoulders out clipping. Though you may think that it gives the potential for a bigger whipper, I've found that a fall from there is less than a fall when you're reaching up to clip. Know what I mean?
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jds100
Oct 13, 2001, 4:39 PM
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It all depends on the stance available; that, and things like height & reach of the climber, determines whether it's more advisable to clip from below or closer to the bolt. Clipping at the waist is great if the holds and the stance all add up to that being the best way to clip the pro.
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ravens_wing_jim
Dec 28, 2001, 1:29 AM
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Dude! the only reason to clip the rope 1st would be an emergency situation.
Otherwise ALWAYS clip the bolt 1st ,
and avoid freaking out your belayer .
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graniteboy
Dec 28, 2001, 3:07 AM
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I almost always clip the bolt first, then pull the rope up and clip.
BUT: here's a little trick I picked up on Astroman. There are times when you'll want to leave a draw attached to your rope, and clipped into your gear loop on the other end, and do the thing where you whip the biner off your haness and simply clip it into the bolt, already pre-attached to the rope. This generally works best if you're climbing till you're waist high to the bolt before clipping. Then, you'll see how fast this is. And, in spite of it's unpopularity, this method keeps U from taking that extra 6 feet of fall, cause you don't have all that rope pulled out to make the clip. I usually only use this method on either spROt routes where I know a bolt is in the right place to do this, or on a hard trad route where your gear placements will fill up your only fingerlocks if you reach above you and put in a piece. You follow all that?
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