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Beta on "The Spout" Ice route
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Jan 9, 2007, 7:05 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2005
Posts: 79

Beta on "The Spout" Ice route  (North_America: United_States: Colorado: North_Central_Range: Buena_Vista_Crags)
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I climbed this route on 12/15/06. Needless to say it is in MUCH better condition now after all the snow! Beware of AVI hazards...

Route name: The route is locally known as "The Spout or The Faucet". It has also been called "Paradise Falls"?

Approach: Nasty 3rd class scramble up the massive drainage/gully on the N. Side of CR-344. This is on the face of the 13'er North of Princeton locally know as the "Dogstooth" or the "Hook". Take CR-306 (Main St.) West from Buena Vista to CR-344 which is the road to Cottonwood Lake. Take 344 for 1 &1/2 -2 miles. Keep your eye on the cliffs on the left (south) side of the road. You can see the route high on the face.

Time: 700+ ft. elevation gain and 1 to 1 & 1/2 hours depending on conditions. Look out for lots of loose rocks and boulders.

Route description: 3 pitches up to WI4.

Pitch-1: Belay left of of rock band below a low angled gully. We found the 1st 50' to be thin and un-protectable. I expect later in the season this is probably pretty fat. Head up and right to a bulge . Belay at a small tree and augment with Ice screws for the anchor. 190 ft. mostly WI2+.

Another option is to head up and left to a large dead Ponderosa pine with rap slings on it. This will allow you to reach the second rappel station on a tree up and right of the small tree mentioned above. 70', WI2+.

Pitch-2: Climb a few steps up and right to the 2nd rap tree. 40' if you take P1, option 1 or 120' if you take option 2. WI3

Pitch-3: This is the business. There are multiple options on this steep upper section. The left and middle is WI3+ and the right is WI4 for approx 80'.

Gear: Take 10-12 screws of various size, some small nuts for the 1st belay anchor and sling materal to augment the rap anchors.

Descent: Rappel the route. Then downclimb the nasty gully.

We found slings on a large tree at the top and a two bolt anchor with slings on the rock band to the right as you top out. Either can be used but the bolts allow you to toprope easily and make for a more direct rappel. There are also slings on trees as mentioned above for pitches 1 and 2.

(This post was edited by virginia_alpinist on Dec 31, 2007, 2:36 PM)

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