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ubangie
Sep 16, 2002, 9:13 AM
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I took a burly fall, we were climbing Lucky Streaks (10b, six pitch) on Fairview Dome, in Tuolumne on Saturday. I was leading the second pitch, and was almost at the belay ledge trying to set what was going to be my last piece when my backpack shifted and I pealed off. My next piece (BD #8 nut) was about 2 feet below me but it popped and the piece after that was run-out about 17 feet. We’re guess-ta-mating I fell between 35-40 feet; I yanked my partner up about 3-5 feet. I was falling great until the # 8 popped then my left foot caught on a flake or a knob (f---ing Tuolumne granite) and flipped me over. I hit a ledge with my back breaking a nalgene water bottle, and got rock rash around my right eye and forehead, but my eye is fine. My ankle is pretty f---ed, but not broken. I'm going to be out about 4-6 weeks. My best friend and first climbing partner is a M.D. he's going to get me on a great rehabilitation program. I was lucky that Olaf a member of the German Mountain Rescue Squad was getting ready at start the route, he shot up the route while my partner was lowering me to the first belay ledge. Then Olfa rapped me off, after a painful as hell 60 foot traverse to the rap startion, using an awesome 2 man rap. Then he and his girlfriend Maja, took care of me until Bruce and Salah (the other guys we were climbing with) could finish the route and hike off the back of the dome to me (they were in the 5th pitch and it was quicker than them rapping off). Then they got to carry me out a 1/2 mile (that also hurt like hell, but it was better then being left up there hehehe)
I knew my ankle wasn't broken so we wrapped it, elevated and iced it. I was given some good pain pills and later we drank a lot of Guinness that night. Then we went to Bishop today, I got some crutches at the Rite Aid and we went to the Buttermilks where I played the gimp photographer, we’ve got a ton of photos. I'll probably have them tomorrow or Tuesday.
[ This Message was edited by: ubangie on 2002-09-16 06:24 ]
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darkside
Sep 16, 2002, 9:58 AM
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OUCH
Guess that is one for the program "When good nalgene bottles go bad"
Glad to hear things went better after you managed the evac....but Guinness, yuk
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overlord
Sep 16, 2002, 10:45 AM
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hey, guiness roskcs. good for you that olaf was there. i dont know about german mountain rescue, but if theyre anything like our MR, they rock. and furthermore, the whole slovenian mountain rescue is voluntary, the only person they are paying is one secretary. offcourse the doctors and heli pilots get paid, but the climbers work for free.
CLIMB ON
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climbinganne
Sep 16, 2002, 11:51 AM
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*climbinganne hugs ubangie then fires up the holy bowl and passes it to him.
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ubangie
Sep 16, 2002, 12:00 PM
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Anne, you take such good care of me
*big hugz
[ This Message was edited by: ubangie on 2002-09-16 05:00 ]
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climbinganne
Sep 16, 2002, 12:12 PM
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are you healed yet???
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rat-baby
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Sep 16, 2002, 1:44 PM
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I had a good fall too. I fell about 15-20 feet onto a jagged shark tooth boulder side ways. Kinda dual error between my belay and myself. Hurt like hell for a few minutes, but I was able to pull down after about 5 minutes rest. It is truely amazing I did not break anything. Thats the third ground fall onto a boulder for me in about three years, and thank god I've walked away from them all.
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doki
Sep 16, 2002, 1:46 PM
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I wish it just last saturday. but his doin' so good so far lets give him couple weeks to get on the rock.
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ubangie
Sep 16, 2002, 3:04 PM
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Ya I hella glad it didn't happen last week too doki. I would have been screwed. I think I would have had to call for a chopper, to get me off Clyde Minaret.
I'll be back spotting and belaying you as soon as I can walk doki... it'll take a little longer for me to be climbing with you, but I not going to let this stop me
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climbinganne
Sep 16, 2002, 3:16 PM
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appalacian mtn talkin' talk between to brothers ???
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paintinhaler
Sep 16, 2002, 3:31 PM
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gimp photographer, I know how that job goes. Hell yea, but Guinness. If you can get it down have fun.
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coreyr
Sep 16, 2002, 3:50 PM
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Ryan, I will drink a guinness tonight just for you. Glad to here your going to be ok. What a scary fall!!
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radistrad
Sep 16, 2002, 3:59 PM
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Oh that is brutal. Take time for your recovery and let it fully heal before you take your next whipper!
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cedk
Sep 16, 2002, 4:05 PM
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Do you know why the stopper pulled?
Was it just a bad placement or more the direction of the fall? did you have a runner on it?
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ubangie
Sep 16, 2002, 4:25 PM
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Thanks guys
The direction was good, the placement wasn't the best but it was all I could fit in the crack, #7 was too small and a #9 was too big. It was the the first place for anything other than a pition (I don't carry them anyway). It had a quick draw on it, the peice that held (a yellow Metolius power cam)had a home made runner on it.
I'm not roping up until Jan, I just going to boulder easy stuff 'till I feel I can take a
good fall.
The fall did have a couple of pluses, You guys should have see the cute climbing ranger that came up after I fell. She was super sweet and keep coming back to check on me. I'm sure any ranger would have done a great job, they all know their stuff in Yosemite, but it was really nice to have a hottie checking up on me right next to the rock.
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crazygrl
Sep 16, 2002, 4:34 PM
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Hey ryan,
I am so glad you are ok!! (big hug) Drink some Guiness and we will all be waiting for you when you heal! Take it easy and we will see you at the rock
Noel
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climbinganne
Sep 16, 2002, 8:04 PM
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think you'll have a cool scar ryan??
http://images.ofoto.com/photos265/5/78/96/15/14/0/14159678503_0_ALB.jpg
[ This Message was edited by: climbinganne on 2002-09-16 13:05 ]
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espinosa
Sep 18, 2002, 6:31 PM
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hey i read the same story some where else...
hmmmm where could that be?
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ubangie
Sep 18, 2002, 11:34 PM
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humm got me
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espinosa
Sep 19, 2002, 6:38 PM
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glad to hear you are on your way to recovery...
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