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Help! Will there be enough to keep me busy in Potrero Chico?
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carlpelletier


Jan 15, 2007, 4:55 PM
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Help! Will there be enough to keep me busy in Potrero Chico?  (North_America: Mexico: Nuevo_Le_n)
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I'm thinking about heading to Potrero Chico and I just was looking for some input. I'm not the world's stongest climber...I feel comfortable leading 5.8 trad and up to .10a sport and I was just wondering if the climbing in Potrero Chico is geared at a little higher leading ability. I was hoping to head down there for about 10 days and was wondering if there would be enough to keep me busy. The last thing that I want to do is travel there and climb the two climbs of my grade and spend the rest of the time taking Spanish lessons.


squierbypetzl
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Jan 16, 2007, 1:25 AM
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Re: [carlpelletier] Help! Will there be enough to keep me busy in Potrero Chico? [In reply to]
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Sounds like youŽll be spending some time at the Virgin Wall. Lots of 9s and 10s there. Mota Wall also has some easier routes.


potreroed


Jan 18, 2007, 9:52 AM
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Re: [carlpelletier] Help! Will there be enough to keep me busy in Potrero Chico? [In reply to]
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After climbing here for 10 days you'll be wishing you could stay for 3 or 4 months.


fancyclaps


Jan 18, 2007, 9:55 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Help! Will there be enough to keep me busy in Potrero Chico? [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
After climbing here for 10 days you'll be wishing you could stay for 3 or 4 months.

Ditto. You should be fine.


carlpelletier


Jan 18, 2007, 10:16 AM
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Re: [fancyclaps] Help! Will there be enough to keep me busy in Potrero Chico? [In reply to]
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Thanks for the help!


redpoint73


Jan 18, 2007, 11:18 AM
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Re: [carlpelletier] Help! Will there be enough to keep me busy in Potrero Chico? [In reply to]
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Have you researched EPC much yet? Here are some things to keep in mind:

1) The individual moves on a route will likely feel easy for the grade, but the pitches will be longer and bolts spacing greater then a typical sport route. If you stick to the ratings, you should be fine. Many people consider them soft, but its that way for a reason.

2) The limestone can be quite brittle, watch for loose stuff and wear a helmet.

3) There are some moderate single pitch routes, and also well-bolted harder ones for days when you don't want to run up a 12-pitcher. Fun 2-3 pitch routes, too.

4) The area is gorgeous, locals are friendly, the food is excellent, and the 40's of Carta Blanca never end. So if you need a rest day, it will still be a great day.

Do you have much multi-pitch experience? If you climb trad, I imagine you very well might. In my thinking, a 5.10 climber w. multi-pitch experience is safer at EPC than a 5.11 sport climber that has no multi-pitch experience. In particular, its good to know how to make multiple rappels efficiently, move safely over loose rock, and what to do in an emergency. Many climbers go down to EPC and don't take it seriously, b/c they think its a "sport crag", and it isn't.


carlpelletier


Jan 18, 2007, 11:43 AM
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Re: [redpoint73] Help! Will there be enough to keep me busy in Potrero Chico? [In reply to]
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I appreciate your input and information. I do have experience on multipitch trad as well as some multipitch sport. I have climbed a good bit in the Tetons and in Estes Park.

If this is the route that I go I feel more comfortable with your feedback. My initial findings found a bunch of .10s - .12s which I was a bit hesitant about.


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