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brettrpierce
Jan 24, 2007, 7:31 PM
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I will be in Southern France the last week of March, and I am looking for suggestions for classic long routes, other than the Verdon, from French 6a to 7a.
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booger
Jan 25, 2007, 8:45 AM
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brettrpierce wrote: I will be in Southern France the last week of March, and I am looking for suggestions for classic long routes, other than the Verdon, from French 6a to 7a.
Brett, we're happy to help, but please clarify...
Where in S. France (that's a big border!), and how far are you willing to drive? Sport or Trad? Rock preference (limestone, granite) if important? What do you consider "long" (for me, "long" means only 300m+)?
Ciao,
Taz
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uasunflower
Jan 25, 2007, 1:00 PM
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ya, what taz said...I liked a lot la Desmaison on Pic de Bure (one pitch of hard 6c+ that goes on aid, everything else easier, couple of cams/nuts useful), it's 600m though and might be rather chilly in March. Presles or Archiances might be better options - although depends on snow conditions too. Then again, need more details to give better advice.
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brettrpierce
Jan 25, 2007, 3:11 PM
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Taz,
We will have a car, so we are willing to drive as much as it takes to get to really good climbs. Sport or trad is fine, any rock type is fine, and the longer the routes the better. I am more interested in being pointed in the direction of classic, high quality climbs that will have reasonable temperatures (I don't really want to have to bring a big belay jacket). What are the classics that you would do over again if time allowed?
Thanks in advance
Cheers,
Brett
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booger
Jan 26, 2007, 9:24 AM
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Okay, I've got two favorite spots then.
-Topomaniac in Presles - one of the best routes I have ever climbed. Perfect rock quality, name suits the route - it winds over every type of climbing: vertical, overhanging, bit of slab. It's in the routes database, along with pictures. Let me know if you head there; we are friends with the owner of the auberge in town and can pass you more information if you need it.
- Calanques - Julia (uasunflower) is more qualified to point out the real classics there, especially beta on Armata Calanqua (sp?... also in the routes database). It looked incredible from below to me, but in the end we kinda just hopped on the wall elsewhere and started climbing. Calanques is a really special place though, with fantastic rock, views, and food.
Both of the above are sport areas, FYI (What can I say, the Frenchies like their bolts, right Thomas?  ). There are other amazing areas, but of the stuff I've done, I'd go back to do Topomaniac again (which I did in good April weather, so March should be fine too).
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uasunflower
Jan 26, 2007, 10:43 AM
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Callanques - agreed, a very special place (i also almost broke my foot there on lead, so it's even more special to me  ) - if there you should def. do smth on la Candelle (Aramta Callanqua or Guttenberg+Centrale are both awesome), a maritime traverse - most interesting ones need trad protection - actually at Callanques there are many 'terrain d'avanture' routes with trad protection - and often very scary for that. The traverse i did was the Traversee sans retour - there is a TR about it on this site, dig a little and you should find it, it's def. worth it but don't overestimate your strength and underestimate its length, i had to bivy on it in pure alpine style. Another one i loved was 'Pour la memoir de nos enfants' in the Devencon cirque, has it all too, with tremendous rappels to start, over-the-sea traverse, cave chimneying, overhangs, roofs, slabs and awesome finish pitch. End of March should be a good season for the place.
At Presles there are tons of classics, Supercouloir i hear is awesome of the easier stuff, i loved Luxe calme and volupte or Singes en hiver.
At Ecrins - much more alpine territory, Tete d'Aval might be doable end of March with over 500m of climbing on bolts, the Elfs route there looks awesome, many others to choose from too.
pm for more...
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uasunflower
Jan 26, 2007, 10:49 AM
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Another place to visit might be Los Mallos de Riglos in Aragon, Spain - i haven't been there, but the images make me drool...maybe this spring...
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thomasribiere
Jan 26, 2007, 11:09 AM
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Do you think it's climbable in Presles in the end of March? I just wonder and have no idea.
For classic 4-5 pitches sport routes on limestone, you have Omblèze or Saoû as well (both are +/- south facing).
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booger
Jan 26, 2007, 11:30 AM
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thomasribiere wrote: Do you think it's climbable in Presles in the end of March? I just wonder and have no idea. For classic 4-5 pitches sport routes on limestone, you have Omblèze or Saoû as well (both are +/- south facing).
Thomas, definitely. Paolo and I were there in early April a couple of years ago and it was great. A bit chilly in the morning and out of the sun, but almost everything there is S. face, anyhow. Check the weather reports anyway though, since this year is so freakish! We were there this past September and the rock was cooking hot!!
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uasunflower
Jan 26, 2007, 11:34 AM
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as taz said, but again it depends on snow - sometimes you might have a surprise dump - the problem is the waterfalls on routes when it starts melting...but with all the routes there i'm pretty sure you can find smth climable even if the snow comes over. I climbed there last year around Apr 14 and it was like summertime, T-shirt and all.
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