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yankeebama
Nov 14, 2006, 11:52 PM
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Registered: Oct 7, 2004
Posts: 49
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Hey did the Huber brothers ever come back and set the speed ascent record for the nose?
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deadhorse
Feb 2, 2007, 8:07 AM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 241
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I don't know (have you seen dean potter's old free solo vid of the nose? sick.) I never really understood how the Huber brothers did their speed ascents- I was reading in the "El Cap confidential" feature in rock & Ice. They said the front guy would be self belayed while the lower one would jugged. But how did the lower one jug (i.e. anchored from?) if the top guy is moving? sorry to digress, but it's been buggin me and I'm sure one of you seasoned guys has got the answer.
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overlord
Feb 2, 2007, 5:41 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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shortfixing (i think its called that in english). you come to an achor, pull some slack, fix the rope, the second can jumar while you continue leading on self belay. used to save time.
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matttt
Feb 2, 2007, 5:56 PM
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Registered: Jul 14, 2006
Posts: 84
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not that i know of. but you can check: http://noseinaday.com/ http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/Elcap.htm http://www.rocknclimb.com/elcapspeed.html http://www.stonemonkeys.net/
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