Forums: Clubs: Mental Training: The Rock Warrior's Way:
Music and climbing
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Mental Training: The Rock Warrior's Way

Premier Sponsor:

 


Believe


Feb 2, 2007, 5:46 AM
Post #1 of 5 (1045 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2007
Posts: 4

Music and climbing
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi all,

I posted the following in response to a thread about music whilst climbing in a different thread. I guess this is a suitable place for it too.

"The amazing effect of music! The effects which you have clearly documented are really important. Curious to know why you climb better with music? Are less hesitant and more confident?

The conscious mind is limited in it's capacity. It can only do so many things at once. You could imagine a picture of a place in your head (perhaps your favourite crag) and see it in great detail. Notice the sounds you hear whilst you look at this imagined picture (clinking of gear, shifting of loose rocks, birdsong). Go on try it now. Really build a picture. See what you saw, hear what you heard and feel what you felt (sun on skin, texture of the rock).

You could do all of the above consciously. Now try this.

Say to yourself over and over "I might fall off this climb and I'm not sure that my gear will hold" This is your internal dialogue. At the same time try and sing along in your head your favourite climbing track. It's impossible!!!!

Your brain, being the marvelous thing that it is can't process more than one auditory stream at the same time. Some peope mention times when they talked their way up a climb or problem (Left arm here, crip with hand on that hold, shift weight here...etc..). this has the same effect. It cancels out the internal dialogue which for a nervous or underconfident climber may go something like this "I'm not sure i should be doing this, what if I fall, will my belayer catch me in time, that rock looks a bit dodge, will my gear hold if i fall).

When the conscious mind is occupied, the unconscious mind can take over to great effect. If you've ever heard of a person taking about Trance climbing (their mind relaxed and they simply climbed, their body being controlled by the unconscious), they rarely remember much about the climb apart from that it felt great.

We are all amazing creatures and we should pat ourseves on the back.

Check out my website if you're curious about this sort of stuff ( some parts are still under construction)"

Colin


_fiend_


Feb 2, 2007, 12:12 PM
Post #2 of 5 (1040 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2005
Posts: 104

Re: [Believe] Music and climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Your brain, being the marvelous thing that it is can't process more than one auditory stream at the same time. Some peope mention times when they talked their way up a climb or problem (Left arm here, crip with hand on that hold, shift weight here...etc..). this has the same effect. It cancels out the internal dialogue which for a nervous or underconfident climber may go something like this "I'm not sure i should be doing this, what if I fall, will my belayer catch me in time, that rock looks a bit dodge, will my gear hold if i fall).

A good point.

Something similar a friend and I have talked about is the rhythm of music getting you in the flow of climbing. I don't mean listening to it (neither is listening necessary for the point you make above), but just having a tune going around in your head, mentally humming it to yourself, and having it linked to the flow of climbing up a route. Obviously it's not an exact thing, but sometimes the feel of a rhythm can get your body feeling a bit more rhythmic in climbing, which can feel useful in the right circumstances.


arnoilgner


Feb 12, 2007, 7:00 AM
Post #3 of 5 (1015 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2003
Posts: 366

Re: [Believe] Music and climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

yes, you are correct that putting music in your conscious mind helps keep the negative dialogue out. however, consider this...
i've taught hundreds of students and have found that the biggest skill they lack is the ability to deal with stress. tricking yourself with music or any other technique just emphasizes that you value getting to the top of a climb and don't really value learning. rather, you should be present for the stressful climbing and learn why you are scared. if you trick yourself with music you won't learn why you are scared. you must face your fears, go through them, not trick yourself and go around them...
arno


verticon


Feb 13, 2007, 6:04 AM
Post #4 of 5 (1008 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2005
Posts: 223

Re: [arnoilgner] Music and climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This thread just reminded me the obsession for that "Brown girl in the ring" tune in the mind of the wounded guy in Touching the Void. Why do you think it happened ? Was it an escape ? Was his mind refusing this way to face reality?


arnoilgner


Feb 13, 2007, 8:24 PM
Post #5 of 5 (986 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2003
Posts: 366

Re: [verticon] Music and climbing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

we could spend hours figuring it out and not come up with the correct answer. it is the nature of the mind to be active. most climbers say they want to get rid of negative thoughts so they can climb better. this is impossible. you cannot fix the mind from the perspective of the mind. rather, do something with the body. breathe, relax, and climb. doing this keeps attention on climbing and that in and of itself diminishes thoughts. like life, it's paradoxically. you accomplish the end goal by striving indirectly for it.
arno


Forums : Clubs : Mental Training: The Rock Warrior's Way

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook