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ncrockclimber
Feb 8, 2007, 9:46 PM
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Does anyone have a copy of the PDF guide that used to be free on the HCR website. I am planning a trip there later this year, and will probably buy a copy of the new guide when I get there. However, I would like to get a copy of the free guide before I go and do some research. Also, if anyone has any recommendations (favorite routes, places to eat, general do / don't) I would be happy to hear them.
Thanks in advance for your help!
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noshoesnoshirt
Feb 10, 2007, 12:50 AM
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Don't have a copy of the PDF, sorry.
As far as advice goes, above all, stock up on booze before you get there - HCR is in a dry county with a big-ass drive to the nearest liquor store.
Otherwise enjoy the scenery. Not much else to do in Newton County. I advise a hike or two on the Buffalo on rest days.
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kane_schutzman
Feb 10, 2007, 3:26 AM
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Favorite Routes? There are so many to choose from, so what do you climb? If you have never been there, I predict you may end up at the N40 most of the time. Its right by the campsite, plus its a good place to meet up with people. My favorite walls are in this order.
Profecy Wall-Best Quality Rock
Goat Cave-Hard climbs, but fixed draws, and sweet overhangs
Magoo Rock-about 6 5.9-5.11 right next to each other, and great quality rock. These climbs are really cool.
Titanic-Cool Crack for trad, and a couple 5.9's and a 5.13 I think(sick climb at the Bow of the "titanic".
I know I am fogetting other areas like crackhouse ally. I havent really climbed much over there much, but there are some sweet cracks and harder climbs. ( I actually think the majority are 5.10-5.13
Try Sour girl at the entrance on your left when going into the north forty. Its a cool short 5.10.
I second the Booz,
If you need a mivrowave then sneek into the hut and use it. Don't try and bareback the horses
N40 isnt on my list because, its just what it is. Sometimes I love it because its close. But when you have done everything over there twice it gets old.
I consider the Far east and Roman wall as one really. There are some really cool climbs over there, but they are spread apart, and sometimes its overgrown.
Also there is a place that almost no one goes too. Its kinda between the goat cave and the roman wall. You will see a cable and tires at the top of the cliff. There are some sweet and hard climbs over there.
If you get there, chances are no one will be in the lobby so you wont be able to get a book till night I think. Enless you catch Jason the head guide, on a Ranger.
H
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ozoneclimber
Feb 10, 2007, 4:18 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
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I definitely suggest The Titanic Boulder and The Prophecy Wall. Both have superb rock and even better routes. The N40 has some nice stuff, i.e. Crab Louse or Newton County Mentality, but it tends to be kind of crowded and "greasy". Mullet Butress I believe is the area mentioned above, also very nice climbing and you can get some very good exposure there, although if you go between late spring and early fall I would suggest going anywhere on the eastern side of the canyon early in the morning. Shade is scarce, and the midsummer Arkanistani sun can be brutal.
-Bobby
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alan_ellis
Feb 10, 2007, 2:17 PM
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Send me a PM with your email address if you still need the PDF. The file is too big for RC.com messaging.
(This post was edited by alan_ellis on Feb 23, 2007, 8:53 PM)
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tubby
Jun 3, 2009, 8:26 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2009
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hay i suggest you look at drtopo.com
he has some pdf's but i don't know about there |
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climbingaggie03
Sep 21, 2010, 6:33 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
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I'm also looking for some beta on HCR, I plan to pick up a guide book at some point, but I'm headed up there for 3-5 days of climbing with my sister. We're probably interested in climbs 5.6-5.10 mostly 5.8ish. Any good gear climbs would be nice too.
Also, as far as a rack goes, what sizes? doubles? or should i just take a single rack with a good amount of overlap?
Is there any reason to take 2 ropes? or are all the climbs less than 100ft?
I know they have camping at the ranch, and that there are some pay forest service campgrounds near by, anybody have any info on some nice stealthy dispersed sites? or good areas to look for them?
Also if we take a day off from climbing, does anybody know of some good mountain biking around?
thanks for the help
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ozoneclimber
Sep 21, 2010, 6:56 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
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The N40 has most of the moderates, though you should be able to keep busy on the east side of the canyon as well. For trad I would go down to the Confederate Cracks or Crackhouse Alley.
No need for two ropes, the tallest climb on the ranch is Orange Crush at around 100 feet, if that... For your rack I would double up on a couple of the midsizes but wouldn't worry too much about it... Most routes are too short to really justify doubling your whole rack.
The BRT (Buffaloe River Trail) is a great trail, and I believe you're allowed to bike it. Not sure though...
As far as camping goes Lost Valley has some nice sites, still pay, but they are spread apart a decent amount... You could try Fountain Red/Fraggle Rock/Rickets Mountain outside of Cowell. It's all the same place, just known by different names locally and on here.
If you want to hit other areas with good camping try Fern or Sam's Throne.
-B
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justroberto
Sep 21, 2010, 7:03 PM
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Just go to Sam's. Free camping, free climbing, less crowded.
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climbingaggie03
Sep 21, 2010, 8:48 PM
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Sams Throne definitely looks intriguing, I think we'll check it out, do you have any good lines or areas that you'd recommend?
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justroberto
Sep 21, 2010, 9:57 PM
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I was shuttling vans back and forth for a hiking trip, so I didn't get a chance to climb there - just wandered around the cliffline for a bit gawking. Looks just as good as HSC with similar rock quality, maybe a little bit taller in general. There's a slight possibility that I'll be heading up there this weekend. There's this great looking orange prow that you get to at the end of the trail down. I think it goes around low 11, IIRC. The Cole Fennel Guide is great for the area, though spendy.
(This post was edited by justroberto on Sep 21, 2010, 9:59 PM)
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jolery
Sep 22, 2010, 5:34 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2008
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The Ozark Cafe in Jasper has wonderful food, has been around for like a hundred years, and provides a glimpse into the stereotypical Arkansan. Also the Buffalo National River campgrounds that are closest to Horseshoe - Steel Creek and Kyle's Landing don't charge for camping after Nov. 15 until spring. They are both approximately 15 minutes away. I camp at HCR some, but don't really like it due to overcrowding, lack of flat places, can't bring my dog, and people/goats being loud all night. Sam's is a great place to camp and climb, or just camp and drive to horseshoe, although it's probably 30-45 minutes drive through steep terrain.
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