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8flood8
Feb 28, 2007, 7:02 PM
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Barring climbing in the desert...
at what depth do you feel your rack is "complete" enough to take almost everywhere in the US and feel that you could cover most of what you needed to.
let me give you more a more specific question --as of right now will this range do well for me while i travel?
according to the spadout rack simulator
i have 4 choices of pro between 12mm and 88mm
then 2 selections under 11mm and 2 over 91mm
this is cams only - not counting nuts and hexes
the largest selection i have is in the handcrack range 9 choices at the 40mm range.
Do people see single pitch routes taking more than 9 pieces ?
i haven't approached the point in climbing where i enjoy climbing offwidth cracks (i'm not that good yet) but i am wondering where you draw the line. Of course if we go to the desert i'm sure i'll need 15 gold camalots.
edited to be more specific*
(This post was edited by 8flood8 on Feb 28, 2007, 7:24 PM)
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anthonycuskelly
Feb 28, 2007, 7:33 PM
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It's far more than I've got, and I haven't noticed much in the way of problems. Though a rack can never really be called complete...
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epoch
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Feb 28, 2007, 7:44 PM
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It depends. <<< The typical answer regarding things like this. Ultimately it depends on your confidence in different situations. My go-anywhere do-anything rack is, for me, what I need in most all situations. To share this is what I take when I travel (Not what I have):
1 full set `o nuts
Pink - navy blue tricams
0 - 2 metolous tcu
.04 - 4 C4 (doubled .5 - 2) (have the option to have .4 - 6 if the situation may call for it)
Throw in 13 slings and some biners and I'm good for anywhere.
I've placed more than 9 pieces on a 200' route. At the same time I've placed as few as one.... Depends.
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deltav
Feb 28, 2007, 7:48 PM
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At the moment I have...
1 full set of nuts (1-13)
1 full set of hexes (1-11)
doubles of .5 & 1 tri-cams, 1.5, 2, 2.5
doubles of camalots .5-2
(1)3 & 3.5
about 12 trad draws
like stated above, is it ever complete? Dunno, but I have stopped buying, for the moment
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coastal_climber
Feb 28, 2007, 7:52 PM
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Why don't you tell us what you actually have instead of giving us partial info.
>Cam
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8flood8
Feb 28, 2007, 8:01 PM
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lol ok --
tcu 00, 0, 1,2,2,3,3,4,4
powercams 10, 1
UL powercams 5,6,7,8
c4 1,2,2,3,4
camalot .75
wc tech friend 2.5
i just look at my cams as what they could potentially protect
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epoch
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Feb 28, 2007, 8:06 PM
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8flood8 wrote: lol ok -- tcu 00, 0, 1,2,2,3,3,4,4 powercams 10, 1 UL powercams 5,6,7,8 c4 1,2,2,3,4 camalot .75 wc tech friend 2.5 i just look at my cams as what they could potentially protect
Passive pro??? That's where you can shave wieght and still have two pieces for a given range. Cams are good, but expensive to leave (bail on), especially if you're traveling and probably aren't going to be back to an area for a good while...
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climbinginchico
Feb 28, 2007, 8:09 PM
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It's never complete!!
That does seem like a decent selection, however. I've placed as many as 14 pieces on a full 70m pitch, and this was on a multi pitch climb.
I just looked at the graphs for the first time in a while- I've got 16 pieces in a few sizes... and I still don't feel my rack is quite there. Need more big stuff and quintuples up to 4.
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flying_dutchman
Feb 28, 2007, 8:11 PM
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my rack is as complete as it ever will be. Am I satisfied yet? Nah, never will be. Wait, that sounds like an addiction now.
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rockprodigy
Feb 28, 2007, 8:56 PM
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You would be far better off worrying about whether or not your skills are complete, than your rack. Thirty years ago people climbed hard stuff with only nuts and slings...they depended on themselves, not gear!
Skill will get you up far more climbs than gear will, and as such, nobody could possibly give you a good answer to your question without knowing what your skills are.
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dlintz
Feb 28, 2007, 9:13 PM
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rockprodigy wrote: You would be far better off worrying about whether or not your skills are complete, than your rack. Thirty years ago people climbed hard stuff with only nuts and slings...they depended on themselves, not gear! Skill will get you up far more climbs than gear will, and as such, nobody could possibly give you a good answer to your question without knowing what your skills are.
I agree to a point, gear won't "get him up a route" however much is based upon one's comfort level. That said, he doesn't have to rely on only nuts and slings. IMO his question refers to what it takes to generally protect most routes he would encounter. I think his question is valid.
d.
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8flood8
Feb 28, 2007, 11:05 PM
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i mentioned earlier that this is just my active pro.
for passive i have
2 sets of nuts with half a set of random specialty (curve nuts etc.)
set of hexes 1-11 with doubles in 7,8,9,10
and 1 tricam i can't remember... red i think.. one of the smaller ones.
thanks for all the thread life yo, and please keep your opinions coming
dlintz hit the nail on the head.
i do realize that i need skills more than gear, i am developing both! heh
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legion
Feb 28, 2007, 11:22 PM
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You have this all backwords. You like handcracks, who doesn't, but you don't need 19 gold Camalots because only gumbies fall out of handcracks. What you do need are some #6 cams to protect those offwidths you hate so much. Guess what, they hate you, too, and one of them is going to creep up on you while you are on your road trip and $hit all over your rack of #2 Camalots. You will bleed, you will cry, and then you will go to the nearest gear shop and buy some big cams. You have been warned, now get out there and learn to leavitate.
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bandidopeco
Mar 1, 2007, 12:15 AM
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After using them a little in granite (they wouldn't be as nice in Sandstone) I couldn't consider my rack complete without Alien offsets. Yeah, they're the proverbial shit, more versitile then normal cams. Yosemite, J-Tree or here up in Tahoe they kick ass.
(no i don't work for CCH)
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stymingersfink
Mar 1, 2007, 7:55 AM
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the "complete" rack, as if such a thing actually existed. but it will protect you on pretty much anything... if you make intelligent selections.
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granite_grrl
Mar 1, 2007, 1:37 PM
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A rack is never truely complete.
I would consider my typical rack a take almost anywhere to climb routes 5.8 and under rack. Single set of cams, s#0 TCU to #4 BD, single set of nuts (doubles are nice though) and the first 3 tri-cams. Hexes are okay, but I haven't used them too many places.
Single set of cams and nuts will get you up most 5.8 and under climbs. But there will always be exceptions.
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epoch
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Mar 1, 2007, 2:17 PM
Post #17 of 41
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More often than not, my travel rack is nothing more than 5 cams, small set of nuts, tricams, and 8 trad draws. Hasn't failed to get me up anything yet. You'll find that your rack can and will be trimmed or beefed up depending on where you are going. Research as to where you are heading next will help immensely with your decision as to what you may need where you are going.
For instance. Out where I live and climb the most, I only need a handful of nuts, tricams, and cams up to C4 #2, singled. Small and effective. When I go visit my parents and climb near there, I bring just about everything due to most of the climbs requiring doubles and big crap.
Your rack will always be dependant on your objective.
If you are planning on building up something for which to draw from when you travel, then doubles of everything standard is a good start.
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swede
Mar 1, 2007, 2:33 PM
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I would say that you might have a too large rack already....
If you must add something I would say small tricams. They are cheaper and lighter than cams, but can in many cases replace them.
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markc
Mar 1, 2007, 2:55 PM
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8flood8 wrote: tcu 00, 0, 1,2,2,3,3,4,4 powercams 10, 1 UL powercams 5,6,7,8 c4 1,2,2,3,4 camalot .75 wc tech friend 2.5 2 sets of nuts with half a set of random specialty (curve nuts etc.) set of hexes 1-11 with doubles in 7,8,9,10 and 1 tricam (red?)
I took the liberty of listing all your pro in one place. At a glance, I'd say you have a rack that will travel well to most places. To be honest, it's probably more pro you want to carry on many routes.
You have 22 cams listed, and probably an equal number of nuts. Despite an abundance of cams, you also have 15 hexes. I'd guess you're between 55 - 60 pieces. I know it's not the popular opinion on rc.com, but there is such a thing as carrying too much gear.
Here's what I usually carry, which has served me fairly well on easy/moderate multipitch routes:
1 set of ABC nuts (4 - 13) - been wanting to add to that
BD hexes 4 - 11
RE micro-robots .25 - .5 - thinking about upgrading
BD camalots .4 - 4
2 smallest tricams
29 pieces, with 15 slings and one screamer. I have RE Robots 1 - 5, as well, but don't often carry them. On occasion we'll pool gear to have a second set of nuts or carry doubles in cams rather than hexes. I'm the first to admit I don't climb hard, but I'm pretty content with what I carry.
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dlintz
Mar 1, 2007, 3:11 PM
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I think the OP is interested in whether he has a complete enough rack to take just about anywhere.....that doesn't mean he'll take the whole thing up each route.
d.
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markc
Mar 1, 2007, 3:16 PM
Post #21 of 41
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dlintz wrote: I think the OP is interested in whether he has a complete enough rack to take just about anywhere.....that doesn't mean he'll take the whole thing up each route. d.
Understood. I said I thought it was good for that purpose (with the exception of places like Indian Creek). You'll have to excuse the rest, which was just my personal rant against buying more gear than you're likely to need.
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brent_e
Mar 1, 2007, 3:41 PM
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8flood8 wrote: lol ok -- tcu 00, 0, 1,2,2,3,3,4,4 powercams 10, 1 UL powercams 5,6,7,8 c4 1,2,2,3,4 camalot .75 wc tech friend 2.5 i just look at my cams as what they could potentially protect
that looks pretty solid to me. Although you'll likely NEVER carry 20+ cams.
i'd say if you can't climb all over with a rack like that you should sell it all to me for a low low price. 
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j_ung
Mar 1, 2007, 3:44 PM
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rockprodigy wrote: You would be far better off worrying about whether or not your skills are complete, than your rack. Thirty years ago people climbed hard stuff with only nuts and slings...they depended on themselves, not gear! Skill will get you up far more climbs than gear will, and as such, nobody could possibly give you a good answer to your question without knowing what your skills are.
Yes, indeedy.
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dingus
Mar 1, 2007, 4:18 PM
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I submit your rack is ALWAYS complete.
You don't go to climb with the rack you want. No,
You go to climb with the rack you have.
As a kid I used to have 'run away' fantasies. No ill feeling toward parents or anything I just wanted adventure. My dream was to move to Alaska and live off the land.
Hours were spent combing Cabelas catalogs and such, building lists of the complete wilderness kit. I wisht Ida kept those lists the laugh would be precious now.
You don't need a list of Cabelas shit to runaway, no. You don't run away with the gear you want. You run away with the gear you have.
Now get to it floody. The Open Road is calling your name. Spending more dough in advance won't change a thing.
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Mar 1, 2007, 4:18 PM)
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