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Where to climb at Mt. Lemmon for this group from SoIll?
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meclimberr


Mar 3, 2007, 10:24 AM
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Where to climb at Mt. Lemmon for this group from SoIll?  (North_America: United_States: Arizona: Southern: Mt__Lemmon)
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I'm coming down with a group of 15 from Southern Illinois the second week of March wondering what spots to hit. Range from 5.7-13, sport and trad. Also, is there any free camping (ie. BLM land)?
[appreciated]


(This post was edited by meclimberr on Mar 3, 2007, 10:25 AM)


erclimb


Mar 3, 2007, 11:00 AM
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Re: [meclimberr] Where to climb at Mt. Lemmon for this group from SoIll? [In reply to]
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do you have a copy of climbing arizona?

i'm not sure how cold it will be on top--there is a ski resort up there--but there's an area called ridgeline with about 8 sport routes from 5.6 to 5.10b within about 30 yards--very popular on weekends

i'm not sure about other areas that will accommodate a large group, but there's tons of climbing...definitely check out steel crazy...3 pitches of 5.9 sport--second pitch is spectacular with great exposure

i found the sport ratings soft and didn't have time to do any trad


rocknice2


Mar 3, 2007, 12:27 PM
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Re: [meclimberr] Where to climb at Mt. Lemmon for this group from SoIll? [In reply to]
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Just came from there a few months ago. Please don't bring 15 people to an area with only 8 routes especially if that place is very popular. God forbid you shold set-up 8 tope ropes.
With that many people your best of splitting up in terms of ability. You can choose an area like say Windy Point, but then you'll have a hundred or so rocks to choose from.
recommendations:
The Fins = 5.8 +/-
Punch & Judy = 5.10 +++
Chimney Rock = 5.10 +/-
Jailhouse = 5.6 to 5.12

+/- indicate you'll find grades above and below posted grade


climbsomething


Mar 3, 2007, 2:44 PM
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Re: [meclimberr] Where to climb at Mt. Lemmon for this group from SoIll? [In reply to]
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I lived in Tucson for 8 years... so here's my take:

As said above, don't be That Group. It can be very easy to do, as Lemmon climbing is generally comprised of scattered crags each typically having 10, 15 climbs or less, and a lot of small parking pullouts and dinky lots at the overlooks. *Most* individual crags are not conducive to large groups, except Munchkinland and some others, but the locals may well have formed their own squad and beat you to it (not uncommon). Digression: Ridgeline isn't even all that good, IMHO. It's relatively small, the gumby frightfest factor is high, and the movement is lame. But that doesn't stop people. Oh well. Whatever.

But if you can still haul a group up the mountain if you do it right.

The obvious option is Munchkinland (with some caveats). It's the single biggest crag, all sport, 5.4-5.12, 50+ routes, almost all with their own anchors. This would be the best option, but be aware that the 5.single digits, especially on the main wall, are usually strung up (if you climb mid-10 to 12, however, you should be fine). I also hope you like dogs. And are willing to correct people when they do something sketch. It's a popular everyman crag- such are the hazards. Still pretty cool though.

Munchkinland is accessed through a fee (not free) campground/picnic area and I am not sure if the campground entrance will be open when you come. If not, you can still park in the pullout right before the campground driveway (and tack on a mile hike on a dirt road to the approach), but you'll still have to get parking passes form the kiosk at MP5. If the campground is open, you can bypass said kiosk but you'll still have to pay the campground host when you get there. It's not a fee area within a fee area, but either way, you still have to pay a few bucks per car. DO carpool, not only to save a few bucks... the campground is very popular, esp. on warm days, and the parking can be hectic. In mid-March, it might be chilly, or it might not. Depends on your tolerance, I guess. I've climbed there in December and was ok in the sun.

Lemmon is on National Forest land, so you usually have to pay to camp. HOWever... I believe there is some free camping at the Prison Camp area (may have been renamed Gordon Hirabyashi something something these days). I think. Not sure. I never camped. Didn't have to.

The assorted Windy Point crags have a lot of classic routes on them, and pack a lot of climbs onto a lot of neat formations. They're scattered but the hikes between them aren't usually bad. Study the maps to find an area that makes the best logistical sense. Climbing and pro style can be old-skool there.

5.12 sport climbers may like the Murray Wall (somewhat small) at the summit area, but at 9,000 it might be cold.

The Falcon guide to Climbing Arizona sucks for Lemmon. Buy the Squeezing the Lemmon book from Summit Hut in town AND check out mountainproject.com for further updates. There's been some development, especially from sport climbers, and some that may be of interest to you, that I haven't seen.

I'd also suggest The Ruins area- bonus, it's low enough on the mountain so there's no parking pass fee, there's a large parking lot, and it's a fairly big cliff for the area with the ratings you want (well, very little in the single digit range, but good for 5.10 and 11). It's also pretty.

La Milagrosa Canyon isn't on Lemmon proper but is near the base. The parking is limited and it's only really fun for 10-12+ climbers. That said, you can almost always find relative solitude. The easiest climbs are often taken but there's plenty of room for even a group of 15.

Have fun! And go to Summerhaven for the pie.


meclimberr


Mar 5, 2007, 7:34 PM
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Re: [climbsomething] Where to climb at Mt. Lemmon for this group from SoIll? [In reply to]
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Thanks for that bit of something on the rock and the pie. I should have made clearer that we will be spitting up.


mesomorf


Mar 5, 2007, 7:45 PM
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Re: [meclimberr] Where to climb at Mt. Lemmon for this group from SoIll? [In reply to]
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meclimberr wrote:
Thanks for that bit of something on the rock and the pie. I should have made clearer that we will be spitting up.

Hopefully it will be the climbing, not the pie, that makes you feel that way. But then you ARE from so ill.

(This post was edited by mesomorf on Mar 5, 2007, 7:46 PM)


el_layclimber


Mar 5, 2007, 7:48 PM
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Re: [meclimberr] Where to climb at Mt. Lemmon for this group from SoIll? [In reply to]
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Mt. Lemmon kicks ass. You can climb anywhere along the highway, although time of year tends to limit your options as to where it's comfortable to climb.

One rule - next time you see a thread about which state has the best climbing, and no one mentions Arizona, just let it stay that way.


rocknice2


Mar 7, 2007, 10:06 AM
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Re: [climbsomething] Where to climb at Mt. Lemmon for this group from SoIll? [In reply to]
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Gordon Hirabyashi or Prison Camp is NOT FREE.


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