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June access to Wasatch from Midway/Guardsman's Pass
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Pikhead


Mar 4, 2007, 3:36 PM
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Registered: Mar 4, 2007
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June access to Wasatch from Midway/Guardsman's Pass  (North_America: United_States: Utah)
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I am looking for route info for a trip to the Wasatch Range the last week of June. We have accommodations in Midway and would like to climb easy to moderate multipitch trad routes in the mountains.

I was hoping low snow accumulations this season would allow for an early opening of Guardsman’s Pass. Lately the weather has not been in my favor, though the locals, I'm sure, are enjoying it!

Anyway, I have until the first half of April to cancel, but I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of good trad routes up to 5.10 that are accessible from Midway if Guardsman’s Pass is not open. I am hoping some routes will be in condition by late June even if accessible by ski or snowshoe.

Also, a few Q's:
Does the Guardsman’s Pass road (UT 224 and 190) open for foot, ski or bike traffic before the road opens to vehicle traffic?
Is driving around practical for doing routes that may take up the whole day to do? Or is it just too far to drive?
Is there enough climbing to keep us busy for a week on the Midway side? Maybe make it a short route/sport climbing/skiing trip if there is lots of snow?

Sorry for the long post, just trying to be clear about what we’re looking for.

Thanks ahead,
David

PS. We climb as a party of three - one leads, two simul-climb, each on a rope belayed from above on an auto-locker. We use two BW Dominator 9.4mmx70M ropes and have a double+ set of nuts and cams. We try to keep the objective hazards as low as possible keeping to the well traveled trade routes in most areas. Some examples of routes we’ve done: Sticky Revelations, Prophesy Wall, Utah; SE Buttress Cathedral Peak and After Six, Yosemite; Cat in the Hat, Dark Shadows, and The Great Red Book, Red Rocks; Grey Waves, Bow Valley, Alberta; Outer Space, Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth; The Kone, 3 O’clock Rock , Darrington.


atg200


Mar 5, 2007, 7:14 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Re: [Pikhead] June access to Wasatch from Midway/Guardsman's Pass [In reply to]
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going over guardsman's is pretty, but no faster to get to the BCC areas and much slower to get to the LCC areas. the pass will likely be open by the end of june, and is always open to nonmotorized traffic. there are really no routes anywhere near guardsman's pass though.

the routes in the wasatch are definitely more like cragging routes than alpine rock routes - the few alpine routes that exist are low quality and loose for the most part. plan on about 45 minutes from midway to BCC and an hour to LCC.

as far as i know there are no routes around midway at all. the fly fishing is incredible though. the skiing will likely be all done by the except for searching out patches high up in the uintahs.


dvw999


Apr 11, 2008, 10:48 AM
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Registered: Oct 16, 2007
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Re: [Pikhead] June access to Wasatch from Midway/Guardsman's Pass [In reply to]
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I concur. There are no routes that I am aware of around Midway area. The pass should easily be open by late June. One can always hike the road, even in the winter. It's a popular snowmobile trail. If you're planning on doing routes in the upper part of BCC then you might be okay to drive there via Guardsman, but the road is not maintained well and can be very washboarded and slow going. If you plan on going to LCC then defenitely go around via Hwy40 and I-80 (Salt Lake). It's less than an hour to the mouth of BCC and about an hour to LCC from Midway. Don't waste your time on the Midway side looking for routes. FYI...it snowed again last night. Frown It's supposed to be in the 70's though by Monday.


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