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geoff
Sep 19, 2002, 6:25 PM
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OK, I have climbed once outdoors and 3 or 4 times in a gym. Could someone recomend a good pair of beginner shoes....I have decided I would like lace up, low cut (not boots) and they will be used predominatly in the gym on top rope for the next few months, then some beginner outdoor routes. At this point I guess Im looking for a good all around shoe, for around $100 that will last me a year or 2 and be suitable for indoor top rope and lead, and some easy outdoor routes. I liked the way a pair of 5.10s I tried fit my foot, I did not like the way Boreals fit...if that matters. Thanks guys.
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climbincajun
Sep 19, 2002, 6:38 PM
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search a little and find one of the plethora of other threads on this subject. Try 'beginners' or the 'gear heads' section'!?!
i recommend boreal diablo, five ten spire,
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dune
Sep 19, 2002, 6:53 PM
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For all around shoes, go with board lasted and MOST IMPORTANTLY something that fits. Board lasted shoes last the longest and perform a lot better than people give them credit for.
My first shoe was the LaSportiva Enduro, 110 bones. They were excellent, actually better than some of the so called high performance shoes. They lasted more than 5 resoles and I don't use them any more because the last resole changed the shape of the toe box. The right one squishes my big toe now (some resoles are bad). I'll have to buy another pair when my current all purpose shoes wear out.
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thrillseeker05
Sep 19, 2002, 7:37 PM
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my suggestion are the LaSportiva Cliff shoes
but it still is up to you
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palisades_rockjock
Sep 19, 2002, 7:48 PM
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What boots are you talking about? I would go with 5.10 ascents, although they will run around 130 bucks. They were my first pair, and I feel that the extra pad in the heel helped out.
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staticbuz
Sep 19, 2002, 8:02 PM
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5.10 spires
I started climbing about 2 months ago and love the shoes
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mtnsprts
Sep 19, 2002, 8:12 PM
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I would suggest Boreal Diablo's if they fit you properly. You can pick them up at MEC for $96.........they are what I use in the gym.
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carabiner86
Sep 19, 2002, 8:46 PM
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The rock climbing store where I go recommends Moccasyms for beginners. If you plan on bouldering they recommend (and I support!) the Cobras.
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earsen
Oct 3, 2002, 9:26 PM
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Do NOT get a slipper for your first shoe. Most new climbers will need to strengthen their feet gradually by climbing in a lace up, before going to a slipper. A lace up keeps the feet cambered with minimal work by the muscles in the arch. A slipper has less support than a lace up, so the foot muscles will need to compensate what is lost in the difference. Keep this in mind, I usually climb 3-4 days a week and wear a slipper (EB Cannibals). I didn't climb two weeks when I got married and went on my honeymoon. When I got back, the muscles in my arch had weakened enough so that little got cramps in my feet. Had I used a lace up when I got back, this wouldn't have happened. My feet, when I got back, were essentially like a beginners, and it was darn right painful forcing them to do the extra work necessary when wearing a laceup. Heed my warning, start with a lace up, work into a slipper.
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toejam
Oct 3, 2002, 10:06 PM
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I'm very happy with a pair of La Sportiva Mythos. They are slip-lasted though, so they do not offer as much support as a board lasted shoe. My feet were already strong from other sports so they are perfect as an all-around shoe.
One tip I give to all first-timers: Everytime I buy a rock shoe, or read a guide, people say to buy the shoe 1-2 sizes smaller than your street shoe. I think this is nonsense. Maybe it applies when climbing 5.11+ but at my level I don't see the point. I bought my first pair too small and it was a waste, couldn't even smear properly in them. Get them snug, but reasonably comfortable.
[ This Message was edited by: toejam on 2002-10-03 15:07 ]
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vegastradguy
Oct 3, 2002, 10:47 PM
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I know at least half a dozen beginner climbers that swear by the Mythos, its a good shoe. I started with Boreal Equinox's, which I love, but they fit my feet well, which is important. My next shoe will either be a boot or a 5.10 Hueco, if thats of any help. Also, I went one size down for my Boreals, and will probably go another half size for my next shoe, as my feet arent as snug as I would like them to be for climbing the higher grades...
As to getting a pair under $100, good luck at a retail store. Try online, I've heard that you can find good deals on shoes.
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farmerc
Oct 3, 2002, 11:45 PM
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The best advice on here was toejam's: buy em snug, but 1-2 sizes small is just stupid. As a beginner you definitely won't need to kill your feet, and for my first pair of shoes (which were a size small) to feel comfortable, it took about 8 months (too long to be uncomfortable when you discover that you love trad). Buy shoes that fit well.
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climber_girl
Oct 4, 2002, 12:17 AM
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go with the 5.10 spires(purple). They;re a great shoes, very comfortable. My first show and would still be wearin em but my feet grew and no longer fit. Great show though.
Brittany
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josher
Oct 4, 2002, 12:25 AM
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5.10 spires were my first shoe. I've had them resoled twice. Although i have upgraded a time or two, i still love them and bring them along. Pretty compfy for a no frills shoe; Stealth Rubber! and less the $100.
The moccasyms (slip-ons) have the same features mention above, only in a slip on.
(can you tell i love 5.10s??
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glacierlily
Oct 4, 2002, 1:19 AM
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I started climbing in the spring and chose the 5-10 Mojaves. These shoes have been very comfortable. I used them for about 5 months when a bubble surfaced on the tip of one sole (no, I don't get to climb that much, so it must have been a fluke). 5-10 was awesome. They gave me a return number and said they would exchange them and they did! I received the 2003 model which seems a bit more snug, which is good, b/c they stretched a bit more than I liked.
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dmon
Oct 4, 2002, 1:38 AM
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When I bought my Mythos the sales assistant said something along the lines of "they are so comfortable it is almost like cheating."
She was right, Mythos are damn comfy and are very popular for that reason.
I got mine for $180 (AUSTRALIAN DOLLARS). That would be $90-100 US. Top shoes.
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 10, 2002, 11:10 PM
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As far as picking a climbing shoe, especially for beginners, THE most important thing is to get a shoe that fits your foot properly. This might seem obvious, but you'd be surprised how easy it is to get suckered into buying a shoe that doesn't fit - maybe because it is what the pro's wear, it's this years high performance model and the salesperson says it kicks ass, whatever. You'll only to end up hating them because your feet hurt. Bottom line - if you're feet are killing you while you're climbing, chances are you'll climb like shit.
That being said, go try on a bunch of different shoes, and if at all possible try renting different shoes for comparison and to figure out what works for you. One thing that might help is to look for shoes that are sized for certain width feet. For example, if you look at La Sportiva's website, they will tell you in their shoe descriptions whether a certain model fits narrow, medium, or wide feet. And DON'T let someone talk you into getting a pair of shoes more than one size down from your street shoe (unless it's a shoe like the Mythos that stretches a lot). Keep em' comfortable to start with - if you turn into a super 5.12+ bad ass, then get some high performance bone crushers.
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 10, 2002, 11:12 PM
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PS - I just bought a pair of La Sportiva Cliffs ($100), excellent shoe for people with wider feet, super comfy.
[ This Message was edited by: holmeslovesguinness on 2002-10-10 16:24 ]
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milodog13
Oct 12, 2002, 9:22 PM
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Good shoes for under $100.00. Board lasted are good for just beginning, but slip lasted give you a better feel for the rock. If you plan on doing any bouldering board lasted are out. Lace ups are probably your best bet. As far as where to find them, without a doubt the best place I've found is www.sportextreme.com. They are overseas and shipping is not cheap but the deals are absolutely incredible. Tom Lund the owner is really great and very helpful. To give you an example I bought my new shoes boreal pyro's (great shoes) for 71.00 us, with shipping the total was about 80.00. The cheapest I have seen them anywhere over here was 135.00. Huge difference! Check the website and go to a local store find the ones you like and get them sized right the order from sportextreme. Remember the should be tight, but not agonizing.. I told a friend about them and he bought his new shoes the boreal zen's for 82.00 total 137.00 over here. Boreals seem to run about a half size smaller then say a comparable 5.10, so don't just assume a size 10 boreal is the same fit as a size 10 5.10. Good luck, let me know how it work's out..
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no_limit
Oct 12, 2002, 10:00 PM
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My first pair of shoes were the La Sportiva Cliffs. They work great, and were under $100. This is only my recommendation, you should just go to a store, try all the shoes on and pick the pair that is the most comfortable.
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