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What size cam will be needed at red river..
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ken21il


Mar 4, 2007, 11:54 PM
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What size cam will be needed at red river..  (North_America: United_States: Kentucky)
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im gonna start headin down to RRG for some climbing this summer never been there and i wanted to know what size wild country cams would most likely be needed in this area???


Thanx


granite_grrl


Mar 5, 2007, 5:11 AM
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Re: [ken21il] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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What are you going to be climbing? There are finger cracks to offwidths, a full spectrum of grades too. Could be worth your time to pick up a guide book and see what's in there.


jjhellstrom


Mar 5, 2007, 6:13 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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first take granite_grrl's advice and get a guide and figure out what you want to climb.. then go ask the people that know.. redriverclimbing.com


microbarn


Mar 5, 2007, 6:18 AM
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Re: [ken21il] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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I suggest two of these:






redpoint73


Mar 5, 2007, 7:32 AM
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A typical Midwest/East Coast lead rack will do you fine (you don't need double cams like many locations out West). The times I have climbed trad at the Red, I used Metolius cams from No. 1 to 4, BD Cams up to No. 3 or 4, and a set of stoppers. Obviously, it will depend on the climb, but that will get you through most routes.


ken21il


Mar 5, 2007, 10:09 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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im gonna be headin to grades of 5.5 to 5.9 while i learn to place these cams guide books tell me that i shold start with cams that cover 1 to 3 inches however it also says that if i frequent fingers cracks to start smaller and or fist cracks to go big to start so im at a stand still, i was thinking WC rigid cams to start No. 1 through 4 which cover 19 mm to 100 mm they are in my price range for starting out and cover a wider selection that wont break the break once i get the placements down and start climbing on a weekly basis ill convert to WC tech friends


redpoint73


Mar 5, 2007, 10:21 AM
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Not a big fan of the rigid Friends. If you lever them over an edge, they can break unless you equip them w. a Gunks tie-off. Besides, the action on the BD Camalots is much smoother then either kind of Friend.


ken21il


Mar 5, 2007, 10:26 AM
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Re: [redpoint73] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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i have used WC cams before well at least climbed second with WC cams and also BD i dont like the BD design so thats my reasoning


granite_grrl


Mar 5, 2007, 10:42 AM
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Re: [ken21il] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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ken21il wrote:
however it also says that if i frequent fingers cracks to start smaller and or fist cracks to go big to start so im at a stand still

I fail to see the problem, do you like fist cracks or finger cracks more? Get extra cams of that size.

Or are you saying that you have no cams, not a single one. Maybe you should start by finding a partner with a full rack that you can use. Otherwise get a standard assortment of cams, that's 7-9 cams depending on the brand you go with and how big/small you get into.

If you're looking for your first set of cams I'd save up and get something other than forged friends.


scrapedape


Mar 5, 2007, 2:35 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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I do not climb in So Ill so take what I say with a grain of salt.

I have used Forged Friends in some of the smaller sizes (1.25-1.75) and they are ok. With the smaller ones the stem seems to fill the whole crack - makes placing and cleaning it tricky.

I have also used a #4 Forged Friend. I don't like it, and I have used it only because it was the only piece I was carrying in that size. The action sucks, to be frank.

Forged Friends are CHEAP, but I am glad that I have built my collection of cams slowly, getting ones that I want, rather than rushing to get a full set of something mediocre.

If I didn't like Camalots, I would probably get Tech Friends or DMMs instead. Not Forged Friends.

The first cam I bought was a #2 DMM (same sizing system as Friends). That was the only cam I had for about 8 months, and useful size to have as my only cam (climbing at Seneca and the Gunks, principally). Then I added a #1 Camalot and TCUs #1-4. The #1 Camalot is another very useful size, as are the #3-4 TCUs. I recently added a #2 and #3 Camalot. In retrospect, this has worked quite well for me.

As previously suggested, you should get whatever sizes you expect to be climbing.


wes_allen


Mar 5, 2007, 3:05 PM
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Re: [ken21il] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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Nothing wrong with the rigid friends, I have two (fill in sizes to fit the camalot gaps) and use them all the time. They are hella strong, except for the horizontal placements, which you will run into sometimes. But, in a normal, vert crack they are bomber - I have whipped on them more then once.

And, as for the RRG sizes, if you are doing easier routes, say 5.8 and under, you will very generally be happier with a few of the larger then hand sized pieces, then with less the hand sized. If you are still needing gear, a couple hexes can fill out those sizes and work well in the red.


easton


Mar 5, 2007, 3:31 PM
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Re: [ken21il] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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When I started climbing trad it was in the Red. I had a set of the old style Camalots from .5 up to the #3. I may have used the #3 once. I had one smaller guy too, maybe a .1, that was used sparingly. I had a set of hexes from 1 to 10 and used them a good bit.

The great thing about the Red is that most of the climbs have bolt anchors so no need to carry crazy stuff to build a funky anchor with.

I never got above a 5.7 lead though, so as everyone says, take it for what it's worth. Check out Fortress for easier stuff. You gotta do Bedtime for Bonzo! Uber classic and great fun for a 5.6!


tradrenn


Mar 5, 2007, 6:52 PM
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Re: [easton] What size cam will be needed at red river.. [In reply to]
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Depends which route you are on.

I use anything from green alien up to #5 Camalot.


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