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Northern Spain/SouthWest France advice
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uasunflower


Mar 7, 2007, 1:46 AM
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Northern Spain/SouthWest France advice
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hey, i'm planning a 12-day trip to the pyrennees and northern spain for end of may with such spots in mind as

-Riglos de mallos
-Picos de europa (too early in the season?)
-French pyrenees (too early in the season?)
-Siuriana (too late / too hot?)

and i'm mainly worried about weather during the last two weeks in may - are all those spots feasable at the same time? Any further advice on where to go/what to do knowing that i'm mostly interested in long routes, trad or sport, up to 7a?


kattagorri


Mar 7, 2007, 10:09 AM
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Hi,

Well, the places that you´ve chosen are great places to climb but they are quite far from each other. Picos de Europa is in Asturias, in the north of Spain;Riglos, is in Aragón, in the pre-Pyrennees; Siurana is in Tarragona which is in Catalunia, near Mediterranean.If you´ve got a car and time to move around they are feasable,but for 12 days maybe too many places to visit.
At the end of May it would be ok for Siurana and Riglos, which is best known for its "micro-climate", even in winter (except when the storm comes from the south). For Picos de Europa a little bit chilly and the weather not very good, better in July-August.And, for French Pyrenees, taking into account that this winter is being a little bit weird it would be possible to climb.
Around Siurana (which is known as Sierra de Prades) there are many spots for sport climbing,Arbolí,Barrots, La Mussara...good climbings!
Around Riglos, you have Rodellar,Alquezar (Huesca) for sport climbing.
In the Pyrenees, Midi d´Ossau,around Gourette...for trad climbing.
Around Asturias, the best place for trad climbing is Naranjo de Bulnes with its impressive west face.Teverga and Quiros for sport climbing.
Just to mention some...I hope this would be helpful. If you need more info...


uasunflower


Mar 8, 2007, 1:22 AM
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thx. I do have a car and will decide on places depending on weather when there.

So overall you're saying that most of those places should be fine at that period except Picos de Europa?


kattagorri


Mar 8, 2007, 7:36 AM
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Hi,

Yes, we usually go to Picos in summer. I meant that july-august are the best months to climb there and even then, you can have rainy days (as happened to us in July). In May, you may have a sunny day and be a perfect day to climb...who knows!But in my opinion it is a little bit chilly in May for the Naranjo (I suppose that you are interested in climbing it, am I right?) And, about Pyrenness depending on the area and altitude.If you can specify where in the Pyrennees...


uasunflower


Mar 13, 2007, 3:52 AM
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yes, we were thinking about Via Rabada on Naranjo - is that a good choice in that grade?
is there anything else worth a try in Picos if we are around for a couple of days?

For Pyrennees we were thinking about Aguille d'Ansabere - the Spigolo Sud. Other routes you'd recommend around there?


kaesar


Mar 14, 2007, 10:05 AM
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Pirineos are so long you have nearly a climber needs. Just one sugestion: Ordesa.


sonso45


Mar 21, 2007, 8:54 AM
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How far is Torla or Huesca from Barcelona? We will be there in late may and wanted to climb Riglos and maybe Ordesa. Should we rent a car?


uasunflower


Mar 21, 2007, 9:10 AM
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i would guess you do need a car for those areas - but i haven't been there yet Smile

ordesa - looks like a very beautiful valley, what climbs would you recommend there? How long is the walk-in?


sonso45


Mar 21, 2007, 9:42 AM
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I am reading the D. Walker 1990 guide, my first visit will be in May.


kattagorri


Mar 21, 2007, 11:20 AM
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Hi,
Yes, I strongly recommend you Rabada route in Naranjo, it´s a good choice. You also have easier routes in the east face to have a first contact with the rock,for example, Cepeda, Amistad con el Diablo...(around V/V+). Around this area, you have Fresnidiello, Peña Santa, Horcados Rojos...but in my opinion, if you have to choose one area go to Naranjo.
About Ansabere, Spigolo is a good option if you are strong enough. It has a 7b/7b+pitch which I heard is quite hard,although you can do it in aid climbing. Have you climbed in Midi d´Ossau?Good trad climbings.
If you decide to go these places I can give you more information about sport climbing spots around. Let me know!Wink


uasunflower


Mar 22, 2007, 2:25 AM
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sonso, btw check this site - http://www.remi-thivel.com/index.html, it has a nice general area overlook for French/Spanish sides. When in May are you going? My trip is may 17-28...

kattagorri - so little time, so many things to do...as i mostly want to do long trad/sport routes, and visit several places, sport climbing might just come on a rest day...so if you had only 2 weeks and 5 best long (300m or more) routes 6b/6c in average to choose, what would you recommend? (We already have Rabada, Ansabere and Riglos in the list Smile). Thinking about a detour by Ordesa, maybe Ossau...


kaesar


Mar 22, 2007, 10:00 AM
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Perhaps you should also have a look at Montrebei.


sonso45


Mar 22, 2007, 1:50 PM
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I really want to climb Ordesa. We will be in the area near May 25. Riglos and Ordesa sound awesome. I have climbed Mexico's Jilotepec and it is similar to Riglos I have been told. I like long trad routes and both are perfect.


sonso45


Mar 26, 2007, 9:48 AM
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where is montrebei?


uasunflower


Mar 26, 2007, 10:16 AM
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see map here - http://www.remi-thivel.com/...gne/aragoncatal.html


sonso45


Mar 26, 2007, 1:25 PM
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Once again, thanks. Montrebei looks like it's very tall limestone.


kaesar


Mar 27, 2007, 9:02 AM
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Not too much. Routes are just between 300 and 500 m length


uasunflower


Mar 28, 2007, 4:54 AM
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has anyone climbed in Ordesa or Montrebei?

Here are routes we were considering -

- Muraille du Gallinero: Edelweiss (Ordesa)
- Tozal del Mallo: Brujas - Franco Española (Ordesa)
- Mont Rebei: Tempesta Nocturna (Montrebei)

Any appreciation/advice on those? Other suggestions?


kaesar


Mar 28, 2007, 9:30 AM
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Brujas-Francoespañola - Great choice.
Edewais- This is a very good one, but a little demanding. If you are comfortable in climbing 6b trad, placing friends and nuts. The 6b is compulsory!
I haven't done Tempestá Nocturna.


kattagorri


Mar 29, 2007, 6:26 AM
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Hi,

I haven´t climbed in Ordesa but the routes that you´ve chosen are the most climbed ones. In Gallinero, Edelweiss or Geminis would be good options. There is a new route in Gallinero South Face, "Lejos de los Gilipollas" TD+/6b/180m(the translation would be "Far from Dickheads"). It was opened in 2006 by Ravier and another guy. It seems to be a beautiful route.If you can´t get info I can scan it and send it to you.
If you are thinking of going to Catalunya, Montrebei, Villanova de Meia or Terradets are good options.
Near Ansabere, there is another place with great routes which is not very crowded. It´s called Pene d´Udapet. There are about 4 routes of 300m high up to 6c.
You can get more information about Pyrennees in the book PIRINEOS.290vías de Lescun al Néouvielle by Rainier Munsch, Christian Ravier and Rémi Thivel published by Desnivel. (www.desnivel.com), I think there is a French version of the same book. This is like The Bible for climbers.
Bye!


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