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roughster
Mar 14, 2007, 4:39 AM
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So here I sit, scratching my head in bewilderment after getting off of the phone with the Auburn SRA Project manager. The Project manager, who seems to be a super nice guy, was pleasant and we talked about Auburn, climbing, and the General Plan for a good long time. But what he had to say about the Access Fund, got me a little fired up.
For a little background, since early 2000, I have been actively pursuing getting climbing "legalized" at Auburn. I have set up meetings with the SRA, BoRec, Teichert ,and the AF. I have researched parcels, land boundaries, extensively searched local and state regulations. When the AF asked me to make a snow angel, I made it in broken glass out of my own blood...ok maybe not that far, but I did EVERY SINGLE THING THEY ASKED. I called for updates, I offered assistance, I offered ideas, suggested letter campaigns, newspaper articles, looked at getting a "Friends of Auburn" thing going on. Tax exempt status based upon Curt's recommendation.
All of that and guess what the Access Fund did? When the SRA was calling trying to get the AF's rep to go to the Stakeholder Meeting, they didn't call back. They left climbers with ZERO representation. In addition, they didn't leave alternative contacts which looked very poor on climbers since we were the ones sqwuaking the most to get access and yet they could barely get someone to go to the Stakeholder meeting.
Now you may be thinking, "Well, where you you??" I was told by the AF to let them handle it, is where I was, along with most other poeple who had tried to help in any way we could. Caughtinside, Glowering, all of us had offered help to the AF every chance we could.
Now the ending to this story has yet to be written. Thankfully, I got a hair up my ass today to call and see what was going and here is the summation of what I have found out:
The initial Stakeholder Meeting wasnt designed to really plan anything. They compiled some concerns and heard statements from each user group. Fortunately some local climbers, particularly Gordon Ainsleigh, represnted us (THANKS GORDON!). In addition, they had a Usage Survey available at the SRA, which I talked about with the PM saying that climbers will likely be severely under represented there since we have been actively discouraging climbers from climbing (aka it is illegal). The PM recongnized that and said that particular issue had come up.
The good news is that from the PMs perspective there seems to be a positive vibe about "Definite possibility about getting climbing reinstated". The 2nd Stakeholders meeting will be in late April, and I have got on the list of invitees. I am really excited about the opportunity to get to the meeting and see the plans proposals and path forward. I will 100% relay all info ASAP to local climbers.
Which leads me back to the AF. I honestly can say the Access Fund has absolutely 100% hurt climbers and our chances and DESPITE them, we still have a chance.
Update: I have been contacted by the AF and will relay more info as i get it.
(This post was edited by roughster on Mar 14, 2007, 8:16 PM)
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caughtinside
Mar 14, 2007, 5:08 AM
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Wow!
Thanks for the update, that is fabulous news that climbing may be legalized at auburn! Big thanks to Gordon Ainsleigh!
I have called and gotten my info on the contact list there twice, but this is the first I've heard that they're moving forward. I'll be at the April meeting for sure.
And yes, the access fund has been absolutely of no help here. THey can't even return a phonecall?!?!?! I take it alison, our former af rep, is long gone? Seriously, I wonder how many 50 dollar memberships got wasted flying her out to colorado for training, after she had been climbing for 4 months. She goes to one meeting with the SRA and agrees with them when they said they were concerned about rockfall?
the actless fund did absolutely nothing. We asked for their help, they excluded us from meetings, and they made things worse, and then they were content to leave things that way, never contacting us or the sra again.
THANKS FOR NOTHING, ACTLESS FUND.
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accessfund
Mar 14, 2007, 3:08 PM
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Hi,
This is Deanne, Programs Director, at the Access Fund. Thanks for bringing this to my attention and please give me a call at 888.8636237 x112 or email me deanne@accessfund.org to discuss.
Respectfully, Deanne
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dingus
Mar 14, 2007, 3:18 PM
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Hey roughster at this next meeting, do you think it would be beneficial to have lots of climbers show up?
DMT
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roughster
Mar 14, 2007, 8:15 PM
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Dingus,
The next upcoming meeting is intended to be a smaller meeting (stakeholders), with a public meeting to be schedule shortly after. I think PM mentioned the intention was to keep the 1st meeting small to insure each "rep" for a user group would have time to discuss their concerns about proposals, then have the public meeting open invite so everyone would have opportunity to discuss the issues/proposals.
So the answer would be probably no to the 1st, but definitely yes to the 2nd meeting. I'll try to get the date out in advance for the Public Meeting so we can rally as many people as we can to be there.
Deanne, I will definetly call you later this afternoon. I was glad to get your message earlier today.
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dingus
Mar 14, 2007, 8:16 PM
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Thanks dude. I travel a lot but if I'm able I'll be there for the 2nd meeting. If you happen to see a date please post it.
Cheers
DMT
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curt
Mar 15, 2007, 4:56 AM
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Good for you, roughster--don't give up. It looks like Deanne (the grassroots organizer for the AF) wants to become more involved. The AF is just one piece of the puzzle though, so it's up to people like you to put it all together and make things happen. Please let me know if I can do anything to help.
Curt
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srwings
Apr 13, 2007, 10:33 PM
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So what was the outcome of this? Do you still feel the Access Fund dropped the ball on this issue?
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caughtinside
Apr 14, 2007, 12:21 AM
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I am actually attending a meeting re: auburn tomorrow. The access fund has put together a letter and sent it to the group seeking input on the new Use Plan.
We'll have to see what comes of it.
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roughster
Apr 14, 2007, 12:54 PM
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srwings wrote: So what was the outcome of this? Do you still feel the Access Fund dropped the ball on this issue?
I will gladly give her and the AF their credit. It sounds like somewhere between switching out regional coordinators and shuffling in the AF, that the Auburn issue got lost. Since becoming "reinvolved", I have been very happy with their efforts and definitively encourage NorCal climbers to send them a few ducats.
We will be asking people to write letters to the SRA shortly and attending Public workshops/hearing concerning potentially allowing climbing.
This could be our last chance to get access to Auburn. We REALLY need to have a show of force at the next public hearing. Dave and I will get the info out ASAP when the dates are established.
Aaron
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rockjock160
Apr 14, 2007, 2:35 PM
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Good Job Roughster, please post when the masses will be most useful. I have wanted to climb at auburn for years, but abstained so as to allow the legal process to progress. It is good to see that some action is taking place
cheers
T
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scuclimber
Apr 14, 2007, 3:12 PM
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A. Rough,
Thanks for all your hard work re: Auburn. If the next meeting is after I'm done with finals, I'll definitely either drive up from The City or down from my folks' place in Colfax to attend. Cheers.
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caughtinside
Apr 15, 2007, 7:01 PM
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Hello all,
I'm pleased to report that the meeting yesterday went pretty well. Again, this was just a small group introductory meeting, and the public meetings will be in mid-may sometime (not set yet.)
But, everyone I talked to didn't seem to think that climbing would be a problem under the new use plan, and other user groups were supportive of allowing climbing, since it doesn't interfere with other uses.
I also learned that Lime Rock (little known, but a beautiful limestone plug) is on private property, the SRA map is incorrect.
In other news, other users (paddlers and canoers) want to see high speed motorboating banned in lake clementine. I also said that BASE jumping should be legalized off the foresthill bridge, but I don't think that one is going anywhere.
I'll keep folks posted on the public meeting when I hear about it.
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scuclimber
Apr 16, 2007, 1:13 AM
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caughtinside wrote: I also learned that Lime Rock (little known, but a beautiful limestone plug) is on private property, the SRA map is incorrect.
Dave, I think last time I checked in the routes DB on here at least, it was listed as private.
caughtinside wrote: I also said that BASE jumping should be legalized off the foresthill bridge, but I don't think that one is going anywhere.
Word. In "XXX" (the movie) apparently Vin Diesel drives off a bridge and pulls a chute (I generally try to avoid his movies). That bridge is the Foresthill Bridge. And then there was a commercial during the last (summer?) Olympics in which a woman BASEs off a bridge, also the Foresthill. They definitely got permission though. 
Incidentally, if anybody is looking for some interesting summer reading, check out "Nature Noir." It's written by a former state ranger in the area. Great book and a quick and easy read.
Cheers,
Colin
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caughtinside
Apr 16, 2007, 2:10 AM
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scuclimber wrote: caughtinside wrote: I also learned that Lime Rock (little known, but a beautiful limestone plug) is on private property, the SRA map is incorrect. Dave, I think last time I checked in the routes DB on here at least, it was listed as private. caughtinside wrote: I also said that BASE jumping should be legalized off the foresthill bridge, but I don't think that one is going anywhere. Word. In "XXX" (the movie) apparently Vin Diesel drives off a bridge and pulls a chute (I generally try to avoid his movies). That bridge is the Foresthill Bridge. And then there was a commercial during the last (summer?) Olympics in which a woman BASEs off a bridge, also the Foresthill. They definitely got permission though. Incidentally, if anybody is looking for some interesting summer reading, check out "Nature Noir." It's written by a former state ranger in the area. Great book and a quick and easy read. Cheers, Colin
Colin,
You are correct about Lime Rock, it is listed as private. However, a couple years ago I saw a map of the SRA which showed it within the SRA boundary! I was informed yesterday that the map is wrong. Too bad, it is a beautiful blue and gold streaked beauty. It's also listed in local hiking guides, as Robber's Roost.
Thinking it was legal to approach from below, we kayaked across lake clementine, and thrashed up the hill, very unpleasant. The rock is cool. Looked like about 10 established routes? 4 looked to be very high quality. Everything looked SHARP.
Rumor is that access was cut off after a climber was severely injured in a fall before he clipped the first bolt of a route. I have also heard that they are Dan Osman routes, but this is unconfirmed.
Yes, the foresthill bridge is the bridge vin diesel drove a corvette off of. Actually, 4 corvettes were driven off that bridge. i met the stuntman who did that, and the subsequent BASE jump off the corvettes a few years ago. hadn't seen the new commercial. It is my understanding that the county controls permitting for that bridge. I think it's the highest span in CA, and one of the top 5 in the country?
Anyway, next time you're up there, you can get a great view of lime rock from across lake clementine.
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