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bolt planet of the apes
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sportclimber45


Mar 14, 2007, 5:06 PM
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bolt planet of the apes  (North_America: United_States: California: Los_Angeles_County: Malibu_Creek_State_Park: Planet_of_the_Apes_Wall)
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this wall needs to be bolted id be such good sport climbs


nuts_bolts


Mar 14, 2007, 5:56 PM
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Re: [sportclimber45] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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I'm sure you would be a good sport climb...Wink


climbsomething


Mar 14, 2007, 6:17 PM
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Re: [sportclimber45] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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Not until "they" bolt Big Moe.

*snicker*


madrusski


Mar 16, 2007, 12:07 PM
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Re: [sportclimber45] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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I think there is an issue with how soft the rock is...
Can be a bit dangerous to bolt there.


pylonhead


Mar 16, 2007, 12:27 PM
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Re: [madrusski] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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madrusski wrote:
I think there is an issue with how soft the rock is...
Can be a bit dangerous to bolt there.

There are many sport climbs in the park with roughly the same rock quality, and, in fact, the top rope anchors on the Apes Wall are all bolts.

The real reason, and probably why nobody even bothered to respond, is that there is no need to bolt this wall.

Bolts are ugly. The wall is in a very public part of the park.

You can walk to the top of the wall in about two minutes.

If you want to sport climb, you can walk another 10 minutes down the creek and have lots of routes to choose from.


madrusski


Mar 16, 2007, 2:14 PM
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Re: [pylonhead] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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All of the above is absolutely true.

I climbed there a couple of times and heard this info from some locals.

IMO, it would be great to have bolts on the right hand side, where is overhangs significantly.

Would be an interesting question to somebody who is involved in bolting the area...


jt512


Mar 16, 2007, 4:05 PM
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Re: [madrusski] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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madrusski wrote:
I think there is an issue with how soft the rock is...
Can be a bit dangerous to bolt there.

hahahaha


jt512


Mar 16, 2007, 4:06 PM
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Re: [pylonhead] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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pylonhead wrote:
The real reason, and probably why nobody even bothered to respond, is that there is no need to bolt this wall.

Bolts are ugly. The wall is in a very public part of the park.

hahahahaha


madrusski


Mar 16, 2007, 4:09 PM
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Re: [jt512] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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Hey Jay,

How is it going? Still climbing in NJC?
BTW, do you know what the deal is with bolting that wall?

Andre


kane_schutzman


Mar 16, 2007, 4:25 PM
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Re: [madrusski] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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madrusski wrote:
Hey Jay,

How is it going? Still climbing in NJC?
BTW, do you know what the deal is with bolting that wall?

Andre

Didn't you hear? Jay is busy recovering from a testicular removal.CrazyYou should send a postcard


easton


Mar 16, 2007, 5:25 PM
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Re: [sportclimber45] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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Good idea. Let me know when you're done.

Seriously, it is a big commitment to bolt a route, so at least offer to help. Don't expect someone else to do it for you, this isn't a gym.

Oh, and the little button with the arrow pointing upward near the bottom of your keyboard is what makes the little letters look BIG. Unimpressed


jt512


Mar 16, 2007, 6:00 PM
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Re: [madrusski] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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madrusski wrote:
Hey Jay,

How is it going? Still climbing in NJC?

Yep. Still out at New Jack. Might be a short season, though, if this heat wave continues.

In reply to:
BTW, do you know what the deal is with bolting that wall?

Andre

I'm not sure what the issue is, but I'm sure that it isn't rock quality. The rock on that wall is good enough to bolt, and worse rock in the park and at other nearby crags has been bolted. And it isn't that bolts are unsightly. That wall, caked with chalk year round, and surrounded by litter, graffiti, and biological waste floating down the stream isn't going to be any uglier with bolts added.

I suspect that that wall is a little too high profile to take a power drill to. The consequences to local sport climbing to drilling on such a visible wall is uncertain, and might unnecessarily raise issues with land managers that are best left unraised. It's been an established top rope wall for 20 years. Best to leave well enough alone.

Jay


rmac587


Mar 20, 2007, 2:57 PM
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Re: [sportclimber45] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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Yea, the bolted routes up the creek and just below the damn are a lot of fun--i'd suggest there, though the approach is trickier
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bent_gate


Mar 20, 2007, 3:13 PM
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Re: [sportclimber45] bolt planet of the apes [In reply to]
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sportclimber45 wrote:
this wall needs to be bolted id be such good sport climbs

Don't let Charleston "Trad Climber" Heston find out what you've done:

“You finally really did it. You maniacs! You bolted a crack! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!"


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