|
sportclimber45
Mar 15, 2007, 12:06 AM
Post #1 of 14
(6490 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2007
Posts: 6
|
this wall needs to be bolted id be such good sport climbs
|
|
|
|
|
nuts_bolts
Mar 15, 2007, 12:56 AM
Post #2 of 14
(6460 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2006
Posts: 88
|
I'm sure you would be a good sport climb...
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Mar 15, 2007, 1:17 AM
Post #3 of 14
(6443 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
Not until "they" bolt Big Moe.
*snicker*
|
|
|
|
|
madrusski
Mar 16, 2007, 7:07 PM
Post #4 of 14
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 6
|
I think there is an issue with how soft the rock is...
Can be a bit dangerous to bolt there.
|
|
|
|
|
pylonhead
Mar 16, 2007, 7:27 PM
Post #5 of 14
(6376 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 283
|
madrusski wrote: I think there is an issue with how soft the rock is... Can be a bit dangerous to bolt there.
There are many sport climbs in the park with roughly the same rock quality, and, in fact, the top rope anchors on the Apes Wall are all bolts.
The real reason, and probably why nobody even bothered to respond, is that there is no need to bolt this wall.
Bolts are ugly. The wall is in a very public part of the park.
You can walk to the top of the wall in about two minutes.
If you want to sport climb, you can walk another 10 minutes down the creek and have lots of routes to choose from.
|
|
|
|
|
madrusski
Mar 16, 2007, 9:14 PM
Post #6 of 14
(6322 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 6
|
All of the above is absolutely true.
I climbed there a couple of times and heard this info from some locals.
IMO, it would be great to have bolts on the right hand side, where is overhangs significantly.
Would be an interesting question to somebody who is involved in bolting the area...
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Mar 16, 2007, 11:05 PM
Post #7 of 14
(6304 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
madrusski wrote: I think there is an issue with how soft the rock is... Can be a bit dangerous to bolt there.
hahahaha
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Mar 16, 2007, 11:06 PM
Post #8 of 14
(6301 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
pylonhead wrote: The real reason, and probably why nobody even bothered to respond, is that there is no need to bolt this wall. Bolts are ugly. The wall is in a very public part of the park.
hahahahaha
|
|
|
|
|
madrusski
Mar 16, 2007, 11:09 PM
Post #9 of 14
(6297 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 6
|
Hey Jay,
How is it going? Still climbing in NJC?
BTW, do you know what the deal is with bolting that wall?
Andre
|
|
|
|
|
kane_schutzman
Mar 16, 2007, 11:25 PM
Post #10 of 14
(6287 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
|
madrusski wrote: Hey Jay, How is it going? Still climbing in NJC? BTW, do you know what the deal is with bolting that wall? Andre
Didn't you hear? Jay is busy recovering from a testicular removal. You should send a postcard
|
|
|
|
|
easton
Mar 17, 2007, 12:25 AM
Post #11 of 14
(6249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2004
Posts: 250
|
Good idea. Let me know when you're done.
Seriously, it is a big commitment to bolt a route, so at least offer to help. Don't expect someone else to do it for you, this isn't a gym.
Oh, and the little button with the arrow pointing upward near the bottom of your keyboard is what makes the little letters look BIG. 
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Mar 17, 2007, 1:00 AM
Post #12 of 14
(6222 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
madrusski wrote: Hey Jay, How is it going? Still climbing in NJC?
Yep. Still out at New Jack. Might be a short season, though, if this heat wave continues.
In reply to: BTW, do you know what the deal is with bolting that wall? Andre
I'm not sure what the issue is, but I'm sure that it isn't rock quality. The rock on that wall is good enough to bolt, and worse rock in the park and at other nearby crags has been bolted. And it isn't that bolts are unsightly. That wall, caked with chalk year round, and surrounded by litter, graffiti, and biological waste floating down the stream isn't going to be any uglier with bolts added.
I suspect that that wall is a little too high profile to take a power drill to. The consequences to local sport climbing to drilling on such a visible wall is uncertain, and might unnecessarily raise issues with land managers that are best left unraised. It's been an established top rope wall for 20 years. Best to leave well enough alone.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
rmac587
Mar 20, 2007, 9:57 PM
Post #13 of 14
(6152 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 4, 2006
Posts: 6
|
Yea, the bolted routes up the creek and just below the damn are a lot of fun--i'd suggest there, though the approach is trickier |
|
|
|
|
bent_gate
Mar 20, 2007, 10:13 PM
Post #14 of 14
(6141 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2620
|
sportclimber45 wrote: this wall needs to be bolted id be such good sport climbs
Don't let Charleston "Trad Climber" Heston find out what you've done:
“You finally really did it. You maniacs! You bolted a crack! God damn you! God damn you all to hell!"
|
|
|
|
|
|
