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Best sport/TR 5.7 near Flag to belay a child?
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monster


Mar 15, 2007, 12:08 PM
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Best sport/TR 5.7 near Flag to belay a child?  (North_America: United_States: Arizona: Northern)
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I recently moved to Flag, and have some nieces/nephews coming to visit me. I would like to show them a good time on something <= 5.7 nearby.

I am looking for:
Reasonably short/safe approach ~15min.
Nearby Flag; Sedona, Pitt, other possible areas?
Prefer face rather than crack.
The longer the better, 30ft+.
Kid's ages 5-10.
Perhaps with other easy climbs nearby.

Thanks for your suggestions,
Ben


climbsomething


Mar 15, 2007, 12:24 PM
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Re: [monster] Best sport/TR 5.7 near Flag to belay a child? [In reply to]
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The Overlook has TRable climbs with easy approaches at around 5.7 but they're not really face climbs that would be intuitive to a little kid, I'd think. Jacks has a decent selection of single digit climbs but take a number. The Pit is cool but doesn't really have what you're looking for.

Maybe you could take them to Sullivan Canyon in Prescott?


camhead


Mar 15, 2007, 12:37 PM
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Re: [climbsomething] Best sport/TR 5.7 near Flag to belay a child? [In reply to]
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climbsomething wrote:
The Overlook has TRable climbs with easy approaches at around 5.7 but they're not really face climbs that would be intuitive to a little kid, I'd think. Jacks has a decent selection of single digit climbs but take a number. The Pit is cool but doesn't really have what you're looking for.

Maybe you could take them to Sullivan Canyon in Prescott?

dood, anything at Sullivan is comparable to the stuff at the Overlook. Go scope out the Overlook, I'm sure something would catch your eye.

Oh, and climbsomething... I still have your Jtree guide. Wannit?


monster


Mar 17, 2007, 10:19 AM
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Re: [monster] Best sport/TR 5.7 near Flag to belay a child? [In reply to]
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Thanks for the info, so is the Overlook in Sedona all crack, or is there some friction/face they could try out?

thanks, Ben


monster


Mar 17, 2007, 6:56 PM
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Re: [monster] Best sport/TR 5.7 near Flag to belay a child? [In reply to]
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What about Sunshine Daydream in the Pit? 5.7-5.8? Is the approach to this climb safe for a kid? Is it sustained, or small crux section?

Any info would help.
thanks, Ben


crackrn


Mar 18, 2007, 6:52 PM
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Re: [monster] Best sport/TR 5.7 near Flag to belay a child? [In reply to]
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Very safe for a kid. Mellow, 10 min approach to the canyon and easy scramble to the climb. The beginning of the climb is the hardest part of it; once you're over the initial part it's pretty intuitive. It's one of the longest climbs at The Pit and okay for the grade. Unfortunately, there aren't many other climbs there (one or two?) that are at that grade so once you're finished with that one, you're basically finished if that's all you can do.


monster


Mar 22, 2007, 8:04 AM
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Re: [crackrn] Best sport/TR 5.7 near Flag to belay a child? [In reply to]
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So, we ended up trying Sunshine Daydream 5.7 (Sun Tower) at the Pitt and it worked out very well - if there are other people looking for a climb for children near flag - this would be my first recommendation.

The scramble approach is somewhat intimidating for younger children, but with patience it is reasonable. There is plenty of space on the ledge below the climb, and even a little alcove with shade nearby. The climb itself has a crux right off the ground - so you can give kids a boost over it to give them a fighting chance (if needed).

With a little cleverness you can use the anchor from Pleasant Dream to belay if the climb is too long. This anchor is about 8ft left of Sunshine Daydream, but if you leave some bolts clipped as directionals - it is feasable.

We had 75% success rate:
12 yr. girl = Got to top 2nd try.
10 yr. girl = Got to top 1st try.
8 yr. boy = got half way (too scared).
30+ mother = Got to top 1st try.

Good luck,
Benjamin


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