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Is there any good 5.10-11 tufa climbing?
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ticklistjunkie


Mar 19, 2007, 7:20 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2006
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Is there any good 5.10-11 tufa climbing?  (North_America: Mexico: Nuevo_Le_n: El_Potrero_Chico)
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I'm going on a trip to Potrero Chico next month. I would love to climb on some overhanging tufas but I don't think I'll be able to onsight anything harder than 12a, and I don't want to spend a lot of time working one route. So if anyone knows of some good tufa climbing in the 5.10-12a range and would let me know that would be sweet.

Thanks, Nathan Hollingsworth


tripperjm


Mar 19, 2007, 11:14 PM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
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Re: [ticklistjunkie] Is there any good 5.10-11 tufa climbing? [In reply to]
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While you can find tufas on many of the walls, most of the walls are not overhanging, however Land Of The Free is steep and has tufas. Several easy 12's and a couple that are harder. The rock is a little chossy and it has one of the longer approches, but you are likely to have the wall to yourself. The Surf Bowl is the best steep single pitch wall in the area, also a long approch but better rock than the Land Of The Free. Surfa Rosa and Nemo are both recomended routes, a little harder than you were looking for, but probibly some of the best of the steep climbing. If you are willing to do a slab to get to steep second pitches, check out the routes that start out of the Bronco Bowls on the right side of the Outrage Wall. The Club Mex Wall has a short approch, outstanding rock and some tufas, it's just not very steep. The Milesky Wall is a good wall with routes in the range you are looking for, with a long approch and only vert to ever so slightly overhanging rock.


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