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anykineclimb
Mar 27, 2007, 6:08 PM
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so the DT technique thread inspired me to start this thread. Now that the ice is going away (or GONE) who does training in the summer and how?
me? I plan on building a woodie and adding some scrap wood for DT holds. I also have a bunch of pallets that I want to connect end to end and make it about 30-40 degrees overhanging and just climb on that. maybe add some holds and/ or drill holes. Ya know some crazy contraption like in the world cup comps!
Once I get my walls up, I'll post pics
as for non specific work, just more compound move exercises- various pullups, shoulder work, etc. oh and squats
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sungam
Mar 27, 2007, 9:56 PM
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In addition to squats, I started calf presses.
What you do is go to a leg-press machine,and only pul the ball of you feet on it.
Press your legs to a slightly bent position, then extend you balls of your feet foreward and back. keep going till you get hopelessly pumped out. rest, repeat ;)
-Magnus
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akicebum
Mar 27, 2007, 10:21 PM
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I am all about training. I got my first real taste of sport mixed this year and I love it. I got up a few M8s and lets just say I want some mo. Pull-ups aren't necesarily as important as lock offs. Try doing one arm lock offs, if you can't at first stagger them with webbing, then bungy cord then nothing. Front levers are an awesome exercise as is capusing on a rope ladder or peg bored; build the larger muscles whilst saving tendons. On your woody, practice resting. Learning to identify and employ good rests will greatly improve your onsight. Rest on one tool and shake out for more time than you normally would, this just builds endurance and buys you some more time to clip. Don't forget to stretch, there really isn't much benefit from holding a stretch over 30 seconds, but doing a wider variety of positions will greatly improve both your mobility and strength.
REMEMBER REMEMBER REMEMBER!!! Climbing is just like working out in a weight room, exercises that result in failiure after 7-8 seconds of exertion are the same as doing a max rep on the bench and should be done infrequently (once every one or two weeks). They tap into pure ATP and it takes longer to recover than an exercise your can perform over a 1 minute period.
Send your body the same signals. Don't train low reps high weight then go for a 10 mile run with your heart rate under 140 the whole time. Your body will only build one kind of muscle at a time, don't confuse it. It takes about 5 weeks for the average adult to fully change the type of muscle they consist of, periodized training is the most efficient way to train.
Stay balanced, you may not want the extra 10lbs of pecs, triceps, and quads but you won't last long without them.
Have fun
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iceisnice
Mar 27, 2007, 10:23 PM
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the best training is just doing it. find a road cut and just go. weight training helps in some area, but nothing beats the real thing. and there are chossy road cuts everywhere to practice on.
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iceisnice
Mar 27, 2007, 10:26 PM
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oh, and, periodized training in the form described above is falling out of favor.
(This post was edited by iceisnice on Mar 27, 2007, 10:26 PM)
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anykineclimb
Mar 27, 2007, 11:16 PM
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definately eying some chosspiles out here to get on.
I definately need to woork on lock offs! theres a fallen tree in the yard that lays at about 40 degrees that'll be good for traverses
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brent_e
Mar 27, 2007, 11:58 PM
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This is a good thread, Steve!
seemed to me that endurance was my biggest setback. how would I build more endurance? laps? repetitions of lighter workouts? it would be nice to actually climb as training so maybe getting on sport routes and leading then downclimbing them would help????
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granite_grrl
Mar 28, 2007, 12:49 PM
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brent_e wrote: This is a good thread, Steve! seemed to me that endurance was my biggest setback. how would I build more endurance? laps? repetitions of lighter workouts? it would be nice to actually climb as training so maybe getting on sport routes and leading then downclimbing them would help????
Its not simply endurance, more power endurance. You're not bad it that, but from what I understand the best way to work it is to climb more steep stuff.
Frankly Brent, you're strong, you can build power endurance pretty quick, but working on technique would probobly bring you a lot further.
Edited to add that there just aren't that many steep sport routes around here. The 5.10s are pretty verticle. The 5.11s are a a little better, but mostly have crimpy small hold cruxes (and half of the ones I've gotten on just kinda suck), and I don't really know about the 5.12s.
(This post was edited by granite_grrl on Mar 28, 2007, 12:54 PM)
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pinnbasher
Mar 28, 2007, 2:45 PM
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Find the highest baseball diamond back stop simply wait for dark and go nuts do laps up down traverse practice leading go leashless for grip strength the possibilites are vast
(This post was edited by pinnbasher on Mar 28, 2007, 2:50 PM)
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builttospill
Mar 28, 2007, 3:05 PM
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iceisnice wrote: oh, and, periodized training in the form described above is falling out of favor.
Do you mean it's falling out of favor among the mixed climbing/climbing community, or out of favor among all athletes?
It's been awhile since I trained seriously for anything, so I was wondering. It seems like for climbing periodization would work but would limit your ability somewhat during non-peak times.
In distance running it was worth it....we had championship meets to prepare for that were on specific dates and those were far more important than midseason meets. In climbing there is weather, conditions, etc to consider and to be honest, I'd rather get up a lot of stuff and climb at a relatively medium-high level for a lot of the year (everyone needs breaks) than peak for 2 weeks out of 6 months and get up something bigger. But that's just me.....I was wondering what you meant by that.
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natec
Mar 28, 2007, 3:38 PM
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I have been doing CrossFit training for the last month or so. It's amazing. Don't take my word for it though, check it out for yourself.
www.crossfit.com
www.gymjones.com
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anykineclimb
Mar 28, 2007, 3:53 PM
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Yeah CF is good stuff, theres a few ice climbers that do 
Builttospill, I agree with you about periodization. I can see wheren in running or if you're some sort of racer that it would be handy, but for most climbing, its not the best method.
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chossmonkey
Mar 28, 2007, 5:14 PM
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If Brent would ever makes the time we do this. Hopefully we'll be getting Granite_Grrl into it this year too.
I also drytool on our home wall. I'm planning on coming up with a whole off season training program so I'm ready to go when the drips start to freeze.
As far as hold for your homewall to drytool on, wood works okay but is pretty easy as your picks sink right in. Make some holds out of rock or drill divots into plastic holds you don't like or use them as is. You could even drill divots on really big holds you do like in parts that don't get used or use the bolt holes already there, just make sure there is enough material around the hole so it doesn't bust. I generally keep my tools off the good holds though. Using something other than wood makes the climbing a little harder so you tain more than just strength. I've tried using jibs, but they just explode.
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granite_grrl
Mar 28, 2007, 5:18 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: If Brent would ever makes the time we do this. Hopefully we'll be getting Granite_Grrl into it this year too.
Aye, I'm the opposite. I need to work on strength more right now than technique.
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fatcat
Mar 28, 2007, 6:42 PM
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Been usimg my small hold wall for DT training. I use a mixture of wood holds, drilled rocks, homemade resin and 'proper' dry tooling holds. These were expensive but give a good mixture of bomber and sketchy placements.
Just added a few hanging 'icicles' - blocks of wood, drilled for placements, hanging from cord a few feet from the board. These need a lot of body tension to move to/from/between. Got the idea from a problem at the Scottish Mixed Masters.
See http://www.drytooling.co.uk/gallery/92.html
If anyone has some suggestions for an off season training programme I'd love to hear them
Thanks
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banjo_jon
Mar 29, 2007, 3:39 PM
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saw the pic of the hanging "wooden" icicles"
so how do you get a pick placement in something thats moving around on ya? just curious
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chossmonkey
Mar 29, 2007, 4:34 PM
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fatcat wrote: Just added a few hanging 'icicles' - blocks of wood, drilled for placements, hanging from cord a few feet from the board.
banjo_jon wrote: saw the pic of the hanging "wooden" icicles" so how do you get a pick placement in something thats moving around on ya? just curious
I might be going out a limb here, but I'll guess he drilled holes in the blocks of wood.
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banjo_jon
Mar 29, 2007, 4:56 PM
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yeah, makes sense, guess i should read a bit more closely.
i tried using my tools on a bachar ladder i built, and it moved around a little too. let's just say it was a good workout, really good for working those lock-offs.
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fatcat
Mar 29, 2007, 5:19 PM
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Yeah, the holes are drilled - but at an angle so some give better placements than others. You need to be very precise when reaching for the first placement or the whole thing spins. Then you need loads of tension to keep your feet on the wall and make the next move.
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fatcat
Mar 29, 2007, 5:55 PM
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The Black Diamond DVD "No Pain No Gain" shows a DT woodie.being used by Innes Papert .
Inspiring !
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akicebum
Apr 3, 2007, 7:53 PM
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Falling out of favor? In what way? I always read, been taught, and coached though periodized programs designed with about a two week peak period. It isn't the greatest way to train for an entire season, but for preseason training it is a great way to maximize power endurance and weight.
I'm with you on the chosspiles, they are great for technique and strength. I was just adding training ideas that might not jump out at ya. I also think that a steady weight regiment will help balance your muscle and prevent energy, simply "climbing" is fun a great way to get strong, but you are moer prone to plateau and are more likely to hurt yourself.
But it is rock season now, take care all and be safe.
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brent_e
Apr 4, 2007, 6:33 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: brent_e wrote: This is a good thread, Steve! seemed to me that endurance was my biggest setback. how would I build more endurance? laps? repetitions of lighter workouts? it would be nice to actually climb as training so maybe getting on sport routes and leading then downclimbing them would help???? Its not simply endurance, more power endurance. You're not bad it that, but from what I understand the best way to work it is to climb more steep stuff. Frankly Brent, you're strong, you can build power endurance pretty quick, but working on technique would probobly bring you a lot further. Edited to add that there just aren't that many steep sport routes around here. The 5.10s are pretty verticle. The 5.11s are a a little better, but mostly have crimpy small hold cruxes (and half of the ones I've gotten on just kinda suck), and I don't really know about the 5.12s.
well, Rebecca, i have to say you're right. I have strength, i think. I feel weaksauce sometimes, though. The technique part, although i was very peeved when you mentioned it in the gym, is totally true. 
Thanks for the beta.
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granite_grrl
Apr 4, 2007, 6:40 PM
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brent_e wrote: well, Rebecca, i have to say you're right. I have strength, i think. I feel weaksauce sometimes, though. The technique part, although i was very peeved when you mentioned it in the gym, is totally true. Thanks for the beta.
Thought you might be peeved, and I'm sorry for that. But I've heard you say multiple times before that that you didn't think you were strong enough. Pisses me off because I know you are.
Now me on the other hand  .....not that I should ignore developing technique either.
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chossmonkey
Apr 4, 2007, 9:47 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: brent_e wrote: well, Rebecca, i have to say you're right. I have strength, i think. I feel weaksauce sometimes, though. The technique part, although i was very peeved when you mentioned it in the gym, is totally true. Thanks for the beta. Thought you might be peeved, and I'm sorry for that. But I've heard you say multiple times before that that you didn't think you were strong enough. Pisses me off because I know you are.
I've told him that a bunch before, I don't think he ever listens though.
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