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elepita
Mar 29, 2007, 7:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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Hi, I just wanted to ask for advice on the following: the middle finger on my left hand just started kind of hurting at its base. It is not a very acute pain, just bothers me a little. I have been climbing and training a lot lately so I know it is bc it is stressed. I am taking 4 days off and 2 weeks off from the climbing gym, just climbing outside (I think the climbing gym is what actually put more stress on it). It only hurts when I press it, so I know it is not too bad. I want to avoid injury bc I am starting to climb strong after a back injury. I'd like to know what I should do to nurse my finger apart from a little rest and tape when I climb. Should I ice it? Put heat on it? Anti-inflamatories? Cream? I took a couple of ibuprofens and I bought an anti-inflamatory cream but I wanted to know if you guys have any other ideas. Thanks so much and happy easter! 10 days off in Spain!! climbing trip here I come!!
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poomasta
Mar 29, 2007, 7:29 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Hey -
I just went through this myself (am still on the road to recovery). First off...not that I recommend you keep climbing, but if ur going to anyway, STOP CRIMPING with that hand! That causes extreme stress to the damaged pulley (A2) at the base of your finger and will exacerbate the injury, potentially extending your recovery time into months instead of weeks.
Second, read up about A2 pulley tears and ruptures and the rehab program at http://www.climbinginjuries.com (thank you again Aimee and Kyle!).
3rd, there is good coverage in the forums on this:
my thread: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=1555962
Be patient and careful not to do more harm, and you'll be good to go in a couple weeks...
mike
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elepita
Mar 29, 2007, 9:33 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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Hey thanks! I am going to do it, I don't think I tore or sprained anything bc it does not hurt very very much, just when I pressed it and a little when I crimp, so I think I just overdid it a little and my tendon or pulley is complaining about it. Anyway, I have had injuries before and if there is something I have learned from them is that my body warns me before getting worse, so I am going to baby my finger for 2/3 weeks. I am going climbing for a week but I am not going to crimp at all and I will tape properly and at the slightest sign of worse pain I will stop climbing. I rather stop for a couple of weeks than months. This is the climbing gym's fault...damn plastic!! Thanks a lot and I hope your finger gets better, I am just coming out myself from a major back injury!!
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kevinheiss
Mar 29, 2007, 9:49 PM
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Registered: Apr 26, 2004
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Honestly the best way for your finger or any other injury to get better is to take a break!!!
It needs rest and time to heal itself and it may take a week or more but it's better to stay off it until it heals. If not you could cause more damage and in the end be out for months or years.
That's just my advice as I had pull a tendon and took 3 weeks off and then another 3 weeks of really easy climbing with no crimps.
Kevin
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slavetogravity
Mar 29, 2007, 9:54 PM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
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When it comes to finger injury. Don't let anyone convince you that taping your finger will have any therapeutic effect.
The only effect tape will have is physiological. Like tying a loop or string around your finger so you don't forget something. In that instance the only thing you’ll be reminded of is your injured fingers.
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macblaze
Mar 30, 2007, 1:15 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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slavetogravity wrote: The only effect tape will have is physiological. Like tying a loop or string around your finger so you don't forget something. In that instance the only thing you’ll be reminded of is your injured fingers.
If you tape right, it does have th added effect of making your finger less functional and therefore less like to be used in a stressful manner...
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enzo81
Mar 31, 2007, 2:18 AM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2006
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what about any supplementing? is there anything anyone has heard of that helps move the injury along?
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throb
Mar 31, 2007, 2:58 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2005
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I don't know about anyone else, but I have several old pulley injuries and if I don't tape them, they hurt a lot. I can definitely pull harder if I tape.
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deadhorse
Apr 2, 2007, 5:42 PM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
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John Long recommends taping at the base of the finger. Just putting it out there. If it's crimping that's getting you tape will mostly prevent you from doing it. If it's monos then tape can help all and all.
I'm treading lightly through this problem also because I have been climbing alot of routes where the only holds are monos. Rest is good, I've been using the metolius "gripsaver plus" (red ball with finger loops) It does great things for the antagonist and stabilizing muscles in the forearm. (also great for elbow)
But if this is the first time it's happened to you, and your just getting into climbing for real make sure it's an overuse thing, not a technique problem. I got wicked 'itis in my elbow because i was climbing wrong. Warm up and loading gently make a world of difference.
I've been on MLO soy protein supplements and they help muscle recovery speed alot and I think tendon repair (accordingly, right??) also. Maybe one of you nutritionists will be able to tell me if that last statement is right.
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