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microbarn


Apr 4, 2007, 6:48 AM
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Collecting Climbing Books
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What is your most prized climbing book? What book would you most like to have? This could be a guidebook, technical instruction, or pictorial. I am not talking about most useful. I am talking about most history or importance to you or the climbing community.

I just had a birthday and my sister found a copy of Advanced Rockcraft by Royal Robins for me. It is in excellent condition and looks unread. However, it seem to be easy to find on the internet. So, I don't think it is a collector's item other then the personal value to me. What books do you value and why?


(This post was edited by microbarn on Apr 4, 2007, 6:49 AM)


kovacs69


Apr 4, 2007, 7:05 AM
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My most prize climbing book is "The Dome Drivers Guide to Enchanted Rock." This is because it was my first guide book and where I learned how to climb. Also, it has been out of print for a number of years so it would be difficult to replace.

JB


dharmatreez


Apr 4, 2007, 7:27 AM
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well, it's probably only important to me, and it is fiction and non-technical, only loosely based on his experiences in the mountains, but...

"Banner In The Sky" - James Ramsey Ullman - 1955

read it first when i was 9, yes it's Newberry Medal Winner and that is a distinctin for kid's books but i was a kid then and most would say i still am now

i related with Rudi's situation well at the time

it gave me a bug i still haven't cured

*side note - Ullman is the ghost writer for Tenzing Norgay's autobiography "Tigers in the Snow" (now published as "Man on Everest", i believe), i hope to get an old copy of "Tigers..." soon


olderic


Apr 4, 2007, 8:03 AM
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dharmatreez wrote:
well, it's probably only important to me, and it is fiction and non-technical, only loosely based on his experiences in the mountains, but...

"Banner In The Sky" - James Ramsey Ullman - 1955

read it first when i was 9, yes it's Newberry Medal Winner and that is a distinctin for kid's books but i was a kid then and most would say i still am now

i related with Rudi's situation well at the time

it gave me a bug i still haven't cured

*side note - Ullman is the ghost writer for Tenzing Norgay's autobiography "Tigers in the Snow" (now published as "Man on Everest", i believe), i hope to get an old copy of "Tigers..." soon

That book and the Disney movie, "Third Man on the Mountain", that was based on it were influential for me too. Likewide the Rebuffet flowery books - "Starlight and Storm" and "Between Heaven and Earth". Even Hunt's "Conquest of Everest" and Houston's "K2 the Savage Mountain" were near and dear to me back then.


ihategrigris


Apr 4, 2007, 8:19 AM
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dharmatreez wrote:
well, it's probably only important to me, and it is fiction and non-technical, only loosely based on his experiences in the mountains, but...

"Banner In The Sky" - James Ramsey Ullman - 1955

read it first when i was 9, yes it's Newberry Medal Winner and that is a distinctin for kid's books but i was a kid then and most would say i still am now

i related with Rudi's situation well at the time

it gave me a bug i still haven't cured

*side note - Ullman is the ghost writer for Tenzing Norgay's autobiography "Tigers in the Snow" (now published as "Man on Everest", i believe), i hope to get an old copy of "Tigers..." soon

I read banner when I was 12 and loved it. I still remember the advice it gave abut using undercligs as holds.


dharmatreez


Apr 4, 2007, 9:17 AM
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nice...

i'm glad others have read it too and were inspired

i assumed that i by either chance or fate i received an obscure book way back then. my mother would buy me a Newberry book once a month for years when i was a kid, some hit the mark and others did not. "Banner In The Sky" and "My Side of the Mountain" by Jean Craighead-George had more influence in my life than anything else at that age.

i've avoided seeing the Disney movie, i'm afraid it will ruin the images i've envisioned every time i read it (was it good?)

long happy trails and safe climbing,

jae

Ullman book listing:

http://www.alibris.com/...an,%20James%20Ramsey


salamanizer


Apr 5, 2007, 12:11 AM
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I got a copy of "A climbers guide to Yosemite Valley" 1st edition (1964) by Steve Roper. A library was selling it on their small website for 90 bucks. Books of similar condition go for 250 to 400 bucks. I could care less what it's worth. I'm just glad I could find a copy of one I could afford. I'm a big fan of the Valley.

I also have a signed copy of "The conquest of everest" by John Hunt signed by Ed Hillary.
But my biggest score (which I havn't found yet) will be 'A Climbers guide to Tahoe Rock' by Rick Sumner. It's the last book I need to complete my Tahoe area climbing guidebook collection.
If anyone knows where a copy is, "Please" let me know. I'll be for ever in debt to you.
If anyone knows how to contact Sumner himself, I'd like to know that info also.


gvanaco


Apr 5, 2007, 5:15 AM
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I love to collect topo guidebooks (climbingmaps) worldwide, old an new ones.

You can always help me to sent them to my home adress to let grow my collection of more then 150 guidebooks.

Gerrit Van Acoleyen
Akkerstraat 15
9255 Buggenhout - Opdorp
Belgium

When you have questions, you can always leave a mail or message.


(This post was edited by gvanaco on Apr 5, 2007, 5:16 AM)


microbarn


Apr 5, 2007, 6:32 AM
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Which topo is the most prized by you? Which one is the most important?

What topo are you searching the hardest for?

Are there reasons for the importance?

(edit for spelling)


(This post was edited by microbarn on Apr 5, 2007, 7:42 AM)


gvanaco


Apr 5, 2007, 7:24 AM
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I search normaly for topos (guidebooks) of sportclimbing and boulder areas. I don't collect mountaineering or trad guidebooks.

The book that I like the most is one called "Swiss plaisir - west" http://www.worldtopo.com/topoboek.php?topo=636 from switserland. My first climbing guidebook.

All guidebooks are welcome !!!


dingus


Apr 5, 2007, 7:39 AM
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dharmatreez wrote:
well, it's probably only important to me, and it is fiction and non-technical, only loosely based on his experiences in the mountains, but...

"Banner In The Sky" - James Ramsey Ullman - 1955

read it first when i was 9, yes it's Newberry Medal Winner and that is a distinctin for kid's books but i was a kid then and most would say i still am now

i related with Rudi's situation well at the time

it gave me a bug i still haven't cured

*side note - Ullman is the ghost writer for Tenzing Norgay's autobiography "Tigers in the Snow" (now published as "Man on Everest", i believe), i hope to get an old copy of "Tigers..." soon

Me too bro and at about the same age too. I credit this book for setting me on the path. That olf Spencer Tracy movie came out about the same time and that was part of it too.

In later life I came to associate Rudi with John Harlin III.

DMT


dingus


Apr 5, 2007, 7:40 AM
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microbarn wrote:
Which topo is the most prized by you? Which one is the most important?

What topo are you searching the hardest for?

Are their reasons for the importance?

The one's hand drawn by my mates. I'll post one in particular later if I can find it. Its really cool.

DMT


dingus


Apr 5, 2007, 7:47 AM
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I really dig climbing history books too.

I have several, covering different areas and eras. Jones landmark Climbing in North America was long my mainstay. I'd have to go look at the bookshelf for a comprehensive list.

Anyway, upon reflection, my favorite climbing history book without a doubt is Pat Ament'S Wizard's of Rock. I freaking love that book and have had the pleasure of tell Pat as much,

DMT


dharmatreez


Apr 5, 2007, 8:20 AM
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dingus wrote:
dharmatreez wrote:
"Banner In The Sky" - James Ramsey Ullman - 1955

read it first when i was 9, yes it's Newberry Medal Winner and that is a distinctin for kid's books but i was a kid then and most would say i still am now

i related with Rudi's situation well at the time

it gave me a bug i still haven't cured

Me too bro and at about the same age too. I credit this book for setting me on the path. That olf Spencer Tracy movie came out about the same time and that was part of it too.

In later life I came to associate Rudi with John Harlin III.

DMT

ah that makes sense...

Ullman also wrote "Straight Up: The Life and Death of John Harlin" - 1968
(i haven't read it though)

that John Harlin is the II, so i assume your speaking of his son in relation to Rudi, which fits because both of their fathers died climbing a mountian and both went on to take on that mountain (one in life and one in fiction)

John Harlin III wrote a book called "Eiger Obsession" after climbing the Eiger

thanks DMT, never put all of that togehter before

looks like its time to pick up "Straight Up..." and "Eiger Obsession"

jae


dingus


Apr 5, 2007, 8:28 AM
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To indulge in a little name dropping in 1985 there was a climber org called the Tennessee Climbing Association, or some such. I'd met Illgner the fall before and gone climbing with him once or twice (me a bumbling idiot of course).

So there was a gathering of the tribe in Chattanooga and Jr Bishop and I went. Climbed at Sunset that day and lots of mid 80s notables were there.

Anyway that night Arno intorduced me to Harlin III. Nothing more than a handshake and a hello really, don't get me wrong.

This was right at the time Harlin released his legendary (to me anyway) national climbing guides. He gave a slide show on skiing down the Diamond on 3 pin gear. A couple of years later he published an article about 3 pinning Huscaran down Peru way.

Anyway, meeting those guys and getting introduced to western rock sorta changed my direction in life. I'd been climbing with Illgner a few times for example (maybe 4 or 5 times in total I guess) and didn't know who he was or where he'd climbed... till I saw the section on Fremont Canyon in Wyoming.

Anyway, I moved to California the next winter and tain't never been the same.

Cheers
DMT


kovacs69


Apr 5, 2007, 8:41 AM
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dharmatreez wrote:
nice...

i'm glad others have read it too and were inspired

i assumed that i by either chance or fate i received an obscure book way back then. my mother would buy me a Newberry book once a month for years when i was a kid, some hit the mark and others did not. "Banner In The Sky" and "My Side of the Mountain" by Jean Craighead-George had more influence in my life than anything else at that age.

i've avoided seeing the Disney movie, i'm afraid it will ruin the images i've envisioned every time i read it (was it good?)

long happy trails and safe climbing,

jae

Ullman book listing:

http://www.alibris.com/...an,%20James%20Ramsey

My Side of the mountain. Now there is a book I read over and over again as a kid. Always made me want to run off to the wilderness and stay lost forever.

JB


knieveltech


Apr 5, 2007, 8:49 AM
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My copy of "Sherman Exposed" hands down.


skinner


Apr 7, 2007, 8:53 PM
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Speaknig of Harlin.. my most prized book would have to be my first edition (signed) copy of "EIGER DIRECT" by Peter Gillman & Dougal Haston.



Another one of my favorites is Warren Hardings "Downward Bound"



Being a bit of a history buff, I found an original 1940 copy of James Ramsey Ullmans; "Kingdom of Adventure" which would be on my *prized* list as well.



..and it was Ullman who stared it all for me to with "Banner in the Sky"




superbum


Apr 7, 2007, 10:34 PM
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I've got both Basic rockcraft and advanced rockcraft by robbins and consider them very valuable, but since I aquired them so easily ($5 at a used bookstore here in Bishop) they don't have that certain special quality...

Climbing in North America by Chris Jones was a gift when I first started climbing and I read the whole boring thing even though I was too "new" to really appreciate it. I think it had a big subcontious hand in how I define my ethics and style...

Also, the Dave Bingham guide to the City of Rocks in Idaho (not his newest one, but the one just before it) has significance because it was my first guidebook and is for the area where I "became" a climber.

But the MOST important book in my collection is Enduring Patagonia by Greg Crouch. That book single handedly changed my perspetive to what was possible in the rock climbing world. It inspired me beyond words to gain the nescesary skills, equipment and experiance to tackle big routes in the greater ranges. It also gave me my first climbing hero, Jim Donini, who incedently signed the book at a Phoenix Bouldering Contest a few years ago. Do you love long routes but sometimes feel too "regular" to really go do Cerro Torre? Read this book!!!


organika


Apr 7, 2007, 11:03 PM
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id have to say "Wallstreet to the San Rafel swell" by E.B...its gotta lotta routes that you cant find in any new books.....i would love to have "back country rockclimbing in arizona" by bob kerry


virginiapine


Jun 25, 2007, 9:27 AM
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There are 2 books that I treasure:
1. "High in the Thin Cold Air" concerning the 1960 high altitude research exped. run by Ed Hillary, overwintering in 2 huts in the Mingbo area near Ama Dablam - my grandmother got it at some garage sale and gave it to me when I was a youngster 'cause I loved pictures of mountains (though I grew up sailing). When I was finally able to begin climbing after college I pulled it out, and lo and behold, it is signed by Sir Ed!

2. "The Climber's Handbook" by Rouse, Fawcett, J. Lowe, & Nunn, published by Sierra Club Books around 1987 - I just kept reading and re-reading the alpine climbing section, to prep for my first trip to the mountains: the Walliser Alpen (Valais or Pennines, area of which the Matterhorn is a part) in 1990

Cheers!


jgill


Jun 26, 2007, 6:57 PM
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It would have to be British Mountaineering by Claude E. Benson (1909). Full of humor and insight into rock climbing at the beginning of the 20th century.


bumluck


Jun 28, 2007, 7:14 AM
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Read alot of books reviewing for Climbing, and also tried my hand at buying and selling rare climbing books for a while, but I still remember reading Annapurna as a kid from one of those high school summer reading lists.

I can see exactly where in my yard I plopped myself and was transported to the mountains.
Attachments: Logolinkshirt3.txt (0.21 KB)


socalbolter


Jun 29, 2007, 9:25 AM
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I've been climbing for quite a while and worked in several climbing shops in the 80's. As such, I have a fair amount of older guides to US climbing areas.

I would be willing to sell many of them and am interested to know if there is a website out there that would serve as a guide to locating buyers for certain books? Also some sort of criteria for affixing a value to the books?

I guess the ideal resource would be a site that listed books currently being looked for by prospective buyers along with the price to be paid. I could then easily check to see if I had one of the titles and make contact with the buyer.

Does something like this exist?


microbarn


Jun 29, 2007, 9:48 AM
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at amazon.com you can list the book and the price you will sell it at

I am sure there are other sites. ebay comes to mind as an option

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