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sava6e
Apr 6, 2007, 1:44 AM
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I was wondering if anyone has started to develop this area, i went there today and saw a lot of potential and would like to clean it up a little sooooo, im wondering i guess to work with people who have been developing this area.
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kingsmm
May 19, 2007, 9:15 PM
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what exactly do you mean by developing? are you talking boulder problems or the cliffs?
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sava6e
May 20, 2007, 5:08 AM
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well in the bouldering area, there are some larger rocks in there that could make some good up-routes, i actually was out there today and put up a route in the bouldering area, if when you first go in and go left there is a rock people have been traversing there are some new bolts, however i have not yet had the chance to put on any rap chains which i will be doing this upcoming weekend, i also left a draw behind by accident, i hope its still there next weekend, id say its about a 5.10, have you been climbing out there? setting routes?
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herbaltee
May 20, 2007, 8:18 PM
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Heads up guys and gals, a lot of the bouldering problems at the Garden have been developed. They just get mossed over during the 8 months where it is rainy. Check in with the folks at OSU, UO and the Crux climbing gym and they'll give you beta on it.
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TopoNut
Jun 2, 2007, 8:04 PM
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I am heading out there today -- I have never been. I hope the directions are good. I would love to clean the place up and put up more routes if the potential exists.
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sava6e
Jun 3, 2007, 12:44 AM
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Weird, i was just out there today myself, i think the place has potential, and im working on cleaning it up so maybe more people would want to climb there, i hope you had fun. also look for more up-routes to be there in the coming months!
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TopoNut
Jun 3, 2007, 10:27 PM
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Spent a couple of hours trying to find The Garden. The GPS coordinate took me to the incorrect location. I drove up all the roads near the coordinate, but couldn't find anything that looked climbable. Does anyone have directions?
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sava6e
Jun 4, 2007, 2:44 PM
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yeah, there is actually a map on here but if yoru on hwy 20 coming from sweet home direction then continue east youll see the lake on the left side of the road and then turn left (north) onto quartzville rd. cross two bridges follow the road as it winds uphill and a few miles up the road youll see a turnoff on the left, its the one right after the one thats blocked by some rocks, go up it 100 yards park in the dirt area. where are you coming from?
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cassady
Jun 11, 2007, 10:02 PM
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you should probably check with others before bolting routes that have been done as boulder problems. Going into an area and starting to bolt after it has been established by others is a sure fire way to piss off the locals. Just because it is mossy does not mean that it hasn't been climbed here in Oregon
(This post was edited by cassady on Jun 11, 2007, 10:05 PM)
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salamanizer
Jun 12, 2007, 12:33 AM
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Bolting boulder problems is a pretty weak ethic. If it's under 20/25ft then it should probably be done as a boulder problem. Putting bolts in is not developing a boulder problem, making a nice flat landing is.
Sometimes you just have to step up, or step back.
Upholding good standards is more important than ticking a V0 boulder problem which may or may not have been done already.
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sava6e
Jun 13, 2007, 2:28 AM
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well shit im glad everyone jumps to conclusions, it by far hasnt been climbed and if it was people were stupid because of the large rock 7/8 of the way up that was just chillin till i pushed it off, 2nd of all who said i put bolts on a boulder its definatly about 30-35 feet high and the landing is horrible even if you were to use a crash pad, not to mention that i feel it was a solid 10b while my friends who have climbed say its more so 11ish would defiantly not classify it as a v0, salamanizer if i do remember correctly when i climbed with you in pine canyon you had bolted that one 12 or 13 that was about as high if not shorter than the route i bolted. final statement: i did research and tried to get beta as to if anyone knew stuff and found very little so i would not piss anyone off im not trying to take credit just increase the local climbing
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salamanizer
Jun 13, 2007, 6:48 AM
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sava6e wrote: who said i put bolts on a boulder
sava6e wrote: in the bouldering area, there are some larger rocks in there that could make some good up-routes,i actually was out there today and put up a route in the bouldering area,
I'd say it was a fair assumption.
sava6e wrote: i feel it was a solid 10b while my friends who have climbed say its more so 11ish would defiantly not classify it as a v0
V Scale
5.1-5.10 not rated or VB
5.10d V0
5.11a V0
5.11b V1
5.11c V2
5.11d V2
5.12a V3
5.12b V4
5.12c V5
5.12d V6
5.13a V7
5.13b V8
5.13c V9
5.13d V10
5.14a V11
5.14b V12
5.14c V13
5.14d V14
5.15a V15
5.15b V16
Its V0 no matter how you slice it.
sava6e wrote: salamanizer if i do remember correctly when i climbed with you in pine canyon you had bolted that one 12 or 13 that was about as high if not shorter than the route i bolted.
It's 45ft and about 5.12c on chossy rock with a tree for a landing.... And no, I probably shouldn't have bolted that one either. TR anchors maybe.
sava6e wrote: im not trying to take credit just increase the local climbing
I understand that very well, but 30/35ft problems. That's like two three bolt routes.... four if you're squeezing. I'm not bagging on you, just trying to enlighten you on a few key points. Most people don't like bolts, especially boulderers and park Rangers/land managers. These kinds of things cause friction between climbers and non climbers alike (as you can see). You'd do better to serve your local climbing area and increase the climbing by just putting in low profile TR anchors and leave it at that. If they get chopped....well, you tried. Not everything needs to be lead. Implimenting a high standard of ethics and being a role model for the climbing and non climbing community is an important part of being a climber. There is another path though.
Ultimately, its up to you to choose how you want to be remembered and what you leave behind.
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sava6e
Jun 13, 2007, 1:13 PM
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i appreciate the insight to the rating system, im not much of one to enjoy climbing boulders, i still feel that it would be dangerous to ones health to solo this rock. yeah there are only two bolts to anchors. also i am keeping a low profile, nobody goes out to this place unless they were going to be climbing or logging trees either case the loggers stay away from this area. yes it is in a prominent bouldering area however there are a fair share of big enough rocks to rope up on, there are some other potential routes on this rock and yes i had in mind setting only anchors. btw salamanizer how is pine canyon? i havnt been home in a while i think that place has some potential, we just need to get more people climbing out there and cleaning up, your thoughts?
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cassady
Jun 16, 2007, 5:35 PM
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There are already a ton of people climbing out at the Garden and they have been for at least the last ten years. There are cliffs above and below the boulders if you want to put up sport climbs. I apologize if I accused anyone of anything I am just trying to stop the typical Oregon reaction to good rock, over bolting. As far as the route that I saw that was bolted out there, and I went back yesterday to verify this, it is less than 25 feet. Remember that the U rock wall is only 25 feet tall. And as for people not climbing the route I talked to someone who asked if I knew who bolted a boulder problem that they had done. Also yesterday I talked to some guys from the Circuit who had done it before the bolts. So far as I know there is only one "sport climb" in the boulder field. As far as bolting in a boulder field imagine what would happen if you bolted highballs in the Buttermilks or at Jtree. If more bolts go up I can only assume that they will get chopped, judging from the attitudes about the one "route" already up. If I were you I would save the money for real routes and leave your drill at home. Just bring your pad and have a good time. Besides on the route already up if you were to fall on the first bolt you will still probably touch the ground and from the second you will only be like 2 or 3 feet off the ground.
(This post was edited by cassady on Jun 16, 2007, 5:41 PM)
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bigo
Jun 21, 2007, 8:05 PM
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OK - so I have done a fair amount of development at the Garder years ago, so I'm pretty sure I know which boulders you want to bolt. Don't do it - for years people have restrained from bolting any climbs in the area and I think this tradition should be respected. The amount of rock available for any quality climb is very limited - you will never get a good sport climbing crag here; there are however plenty of unexlpored boulders in the area.
If you are looking for new route potential - just drive up the pass a ways and start exploring. I'll even give a hint. There is a shit ton of untouched rock in and around the menegerie wilderness.
Remember, if you are a Student at OSU/UO, your stay is likely temporary. Don't screw up the Garden for the rest of the folks who call the place home.
I no longer live in Corvallis, so I don't have a stake in what happens out there. But, I would hate to see access shut down to a great little bouldering spot in the woods.
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wishiwasclimbing
May 21, 2009, 2:45 AM
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Hey I'm having problems finding the main area. I think i found the armegedon area. where the clear cut is, which there is an awesome problem in the middle. but i cant find the main area.
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dorkboat
Aug 23, 2009, 9:45 PM
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Hey, i just wanted to clarify that the route you bolted is a boulder problem with about 12 years of history. It was a climb and drop problem called francois, which had a few ground up top-outs around 1999. It was later cleaned up a bit and is on a lot people's normal garden circuit . Can't say that we are amused to see the bolts. There were some loose bits, but that is part of the deal up there, and you can (could) work around em.
If it is in the garden proper and under 25ft and 14a it has probably seen an ascent, or has an extensive history as a project. Moss does not indicate it has not been done...most things have gone at least once. I love sport climbing, but please take the drill elsewhere: there are walls right there at the garden which have some potential, and there are other cliffs in the area. some of them are good. Don't intend to be a jerk about this, but...not happy.
-cheers
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ire510
Sep 12, 2009, 3:48 PM
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I can't help but laugh about your comment about OSU/UO, "...your stay is likely temporary..." I went to OSU(heavily frequented the garden during), yet can't manage to get the f*** out! Its alright Moolack is here so I'm making it work...lol...
wishiwasclimbing, I gave you (hopefully) some better visual directs in an adjacent Garden specific forum. Hope you got that and it helps. Let me know if you dig the area, a lot of people have over the years, and I think people might have the same respect for the place as say a sisters or carver bouldering if it didn't have so much dang poison oak and moss. but thats west side vs east side for ya...
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