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elvislegs


Sep 23, 2002, 11:26 AM
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Just got back from the friekin' slog of my life at the end of which I found that the alpine ice route I was planning on climbing was in, let's say, less than ideal shape. Thin, rotten, unsafe. We bailed from halfway up as things were getting really dicey. Then we did the whole nasty slog back with nothing to show for it.

My question is: How are routes in other places than Idaho? I've heard that most of the ice in the Tetons is gone now and that other places are suffering too. True? Fall is alpine ice season but it seems that there is none to be had. Anyone doing any climbing out there?

[ This Message was edited by: elvislegs on 2002-09-23 11:29 ]


elvislegs


Sep 23, 2002, 11:41 AM
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Yes, addmitedly we may have been a bit early. My partner had done the same route, same time last year to the day, and it was sweet then. But Idaho is a very dry state, and very fickle with ice and snow. Perhaps in a while it will be better. Or next year.


astone


Sep 23, 2002, 11:52 AM
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The North Face of Borah is badly melted out well past the first rockband. It features waterfalls and spontaneous rockfall by midmorning.

Hey elvis, what route are you talking about at the beginning of this thread?

Later, astone


agrauch


Sep 23, 2002, 12:01 PM
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The north faces of the Owen, the Grand, and the Enclosure were looking cold and icy this weekend. The snow fields on the NE face of Owen and the Enclosure couloir have a fresh layer of snow, hard to say how much ice is underneath. Could be some good stuff up there.

The Middle Teton glacier is always a safe bet for good ice this time of year. Nothing too hard, but long and fun.

[ This Message was edited by: agrauch on 2002-09-23 12:03 ]


elvislegs


Sep 23, 2002, 12:11 PM
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Astone, I was in fact talking about the N. face of Borah. We did not encounter any waterfalls or rock fall that we didn't cause ourselves, but it was melted out and ugly. We climbed the rocks ropeless until we found something resembling ice. We then traversed out onto said "ice" with the intent of making it higher to what might have been better ice. What we found was that the ice was mostly a half inch thick, all the way across. When we did find a little thicker ice it was rotten and would never have held a screw. You had to swing your tool four or five times to get any purchase and it looked about the same all the way up. Terrible. So we rapped off. Did you do that route recently?


astone


Sep 23, 2002, 12:30 PM
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Hey elvis,

I headed out there the first weekend in August, against the advice of those more experienced than I.

Temps were warm. We made it up into the first rockband. When we got to the snow/ice it was basically running with water and spitting rocks at us. I decided I would rather live to climb this face another day. I hear May is pretty good if you like climbing on good consolidated neve.

I don't think it is typical for this face to melt out that badly since most of the first ascents of its routes were done in Sep. and Oct.

I think I'll give it another go next year.

Good Times, astone


mainline


Sep 23, 2002, 7:25 PM
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I was camping on moraine of the Middle Teton Glacier two weekends ago, and the route looked like it was in great shape. unfortunately I was only prepared to climb rock that weekend. There has been a little snow up there since. Word is the North West of the middle is too melted out for good climbing, as is the Black Ice.


Partner tim


Sep 23, 2002, 7:46 PM
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Anyone have any beta on conditions in the Sierra (eg. Evolution range especially)?

I'd like to take a whack at Mendel if it's in this season.



hallm


Sep 23, 2002, 10:43 PM
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I, too, am interested in the conditions in the Sierra's. I am making a 6 day trip to the Palisades in two weeks. Wondering whether it is worth bringing the alpine gear to do the U-Notch Colouir and other alpine routes, or will I just be humping loads for my health?

Any news for any recent visitors would be appreciated.

M-


pbjosh


Sep 23, 2002, 11:01 PM
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Re: the sierra. There's www.themountainguide.com/couloirreport.html

Generally, and I haven't seen much this year, the U-notch and V-notch should be icy and in. It will take a lot more drought years for them to start melting out. A friend confirmed this a few days ago. North Peak left and right are in, the left is melted out at the top and may have a tiny bit of mixed or may just have some dirt grovelling. I've seen this with my own eyes this year.

Mendel hasn't been in good shape the past few years, no one expects it to be any better this year, so probably no. Gilbert is the common alternative. It usually melts out at the top (50-100') but is otherwise great. That's what I hear it's like this year.

Feather Peak is a long way in but apparently forms nicely and doesn't melt out and is in good shape this year.

Dana is reliable. May melt out at the top a bit but should be nice (if easy).

Dunno about Thompson, Checkered Demon, etc.

Red Slate Couloir is usually pretty reliable.

I doubt there's anything left on Split at this time of year, most people do that stuff in the spring these days.

Like I said, the above information is all heresay, rumor, conjecture and the like. I haven't seen much this year and have NEVER seen some of those peaks for that matter.

josh


jtcronk


Sep 24, 2002, 4:09 PM
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Hey, everyone from the Teton area!

Has anyone seen whether the Enclosure is in for sure (or any other ice)? Any info would be great! I'm planning on doing something this coming weekend. Just need to decide what...thanks!

Jason


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