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Fixed anchors at Devils Lake?
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griffix


May 4, 2007, 7:22 AM
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Fixed anchors at Devils Lake?  (North_America: United_States: Wisconsin: Devil_s_Lake)
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Are there fixed anchors at Devils Lake, or does one have to set them off trees and trad gear? Thanks!


rudolphluciani


May 4, 2007, 9:56 AM
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Re: [griffix] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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There are no fixed anchors at DL as far as i know.


shrug7


May 14, 2007, 7:51 AM
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Re: [griffix] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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Every now and then you'll see one...however....they are very, very, very old, Do not use them. If I recall bolting is illegal in Wisconsin .


powair


May 14, 2007, 8:15 AM
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Re: [shrug7] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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No bolts anywhere in the park. There are some OLD OLD pins scattered around but most of them have been taken out. When leading I generally clip them "it could hold" but place gear close to them if you do decide to clip them.


griffix


May 14, 2007, 11:11 AM
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Re: [griffix] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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Since there are no fixed anchors; what is the preferred method of cleaning and getting off the routes at this area.


(This post was edited by griffix on May 14, 2007, 11:12 AM)


a_guy_named_smith


May 14, 2007, 11:45 AM
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Re: [griffix] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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If you are leading have your second clean.
You can belay from the top and meet your second there. You can take the 4 pieces of gear you used to lead the routes from your second. you can both walk around to the bottom and start over.

Or you can lead the route, set the anchor and be lowered. Clean the route yourself. You now have a top rope. Last person up cleans the anchor.

If you setting top ropes walk. walk back to the top and clean them yourself.

Having climbed a ton at the park, I really cant think of any areas that would require more than 10 (most of them 5) minutes to get to the top of the cliff to clean your anchor.


as for anchors
you can get by with a set of nuts and hexes

and lots of webbing to sling the big ole stones at the top


(This post was edited by a_guy_named_smith on May 14, 2007, 11:52 AM)


griffix


May 14, 2007, 11:52 AM
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Re: [a_guy_named_smith] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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Thanks that was the info I was looking for.


nuts_r_us


May 14, 2007, 12:06 PM
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Re: [shrug7] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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shrug7 wrote:
If I recall bolting is illegal in Wisconsin .

Maybe you meant illegal at Devil's Lake. There are a few bolted areas in Wisconsin though.


shrug7


May 14, 2007, 12:16 PM
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Re: [nuts_r_us] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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I heard it mentioned from a few other climbers. But I couldn't actually find anything on the WDNR site. But i'm sure it would piss off a Ranger.

Are they still maintained? i.e. would you climb/rap off them? everything I have seen up there was more rusty then my former ford station wagon Smile


nuts_r_us


May 14, 2007, 12:40 PM
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Re: [shrug7] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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shrug7 wrote:
I heard it mentioned from a few other climbers. But I couldn't actually find anything on the WDNR site. But i'm sure it would piss off a Ranger.

Are they still maintained? i.e. would you climb/rap off them? everything I have seen up there was more rusty then my former ford station wagon Smile

No, I mean there is no bolting at Devil's Lake-- that is correct. But it's not a Wisconsin rule, it's a Devil's Lake rule.


shrug7


May 14, 2007, 12:44 PM
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Re: [nuts_r_us] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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Huh interesting, Thanks for the info.

So..my dumb question for the day....any sport routes in WI? or just all top anchors?


sgauss


May 14, 2007, 12:50 PM
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Re: [rudolphluciani] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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There's one fixed anchor of note at Devils Lake, at the top of Cleopatra's Needle.


nuts_r_us


May 14, 2007, 1:06 PM
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Re: [shrug7] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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shrug7 wrote:
Huh interesting, Thanks for the info.

So..my dumb question for the day....any sport routes in WI? or just all top anchors?

Check out Necedah (Petenwell Bluff), Willow River State Park, and Granddad's Bluff in La Crosse for sport. Not huge areas and the bolted lines are generally hard, but if you are looking for sport, there is some.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ow_River_State_Park/

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...West/Grandad__Bluff/

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ral/Petenwell_Bluff/


nuts_r_us


May 14, 2007, 1:10 PM
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Re: [shrug7] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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shrug7 wrote:
Huh interesting, Thanks for the info.

So..my dumb question for the day....any sport routes in WI? or just all top anchors?

Well, after seeing where you're from, I guess I would drive south for sport if I were you!


shrug7


May 14, 2007, 1:13 PM
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Re: [nuts_r_us] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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It's still 6 hours away. DL is about 2 something for me

I do try and get down to Drapers when I visit my in-laws or visit friends in Carbondale. Smile


zenofclimbing


May 14, 2007, 1:32 PM
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Re: [griffix] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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as said above, the only bolt you should trust at the lake is the anchor on top of Cleo's Needle. Anything else avoid!


cracknut


May 4, 2009, 3:03 PM
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Re: [powair] Fixed anchors at Devils Lake? [In reply to]
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powair wrote:
No bolts anywhere in the park.

Just to nitpick: there are two loose 1/4" bolts on flatus and a good bolt on a slab @ Old Sandstone


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