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Best 10+ 11- Routes
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tsparks


Sep 25, 2002, 8:20 AM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2002
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Best 10+ 11- Routes  (North_America: United_States: Kentucky: East: Red_River_Gorge__Climbing_)
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I'm trying to break into the 11's this fall and I would just like some input as to some climbs that you all might recommend here in the Red.


verbal


Sep 25, 2002, 8:49 AM
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Registered: Nov 9, 2001
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Some of it depends on what you like to climb. Slab, overhanging, pocketed, plates.
There are always the classics like fuzzy undercling at military, or maypop at left flank. There are tons of 11's all over, just look in the guide book and climb any three star routes you can find.


transse


Sep 25, 2002, 9:03 AM
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Fuzzy Undercling rules. A hard move off the ground to a romp through buckets. Doesn't get much better....

Jake


powers


Sep 25, 2002, 6:42 PM
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Breakfast Burrito 5.10d and whipstocking 5.11a at drive by crag. the 5.11s at arena.Bandolier 5.11a at torrent falls. Eye of the needle 5.11b and prime directive 5.11b at funk rock. jack n the pulpit 5.10d and Super dario 5.11a at sky bridge.


verbal


Sep 25, 2002, 7:41 PM
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Drive By would be a great place. Both breakfast burrito and whipstocking are great and fire and brimstone and yada yada yada are good too. All the 11's at torrent falls are decent.


tsparks


Sep 25, 2002, 7:48 PM
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Thanks for the info. Out of all of the climbs that you named I think the only one that I've been on so far is Breakfast Burrito, but the others are goals of mine. In the past I've had some success/failures on all different types of climbs, it all really just depends where my head is on a given day.

Are the holds on Fuzzy really as big as they look after the second bolt?


ecocliffchick


Sep 30, 2002, 9:21 AM
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I also really enjoyed Bandolier at Torrent - and there are 2 or 3 more 11's on the same wall. And don't bother with Fuzzy Undercling at Military. The route is one drastic 11b move and then 5.8 to the top. It's not a climb, it's one move. - (and maybe I'm so pissy about it 'cause I can't do that one move and it makes me very...VERY ANGRY )


ginkdivad


Oct 14, 2002, 8:48 PM
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Gettin off the gournd is the 11 part for sure, but 5.8 after????? Hmmmmm???????? Todd, its a great route give it a go........
11 wall at Torrent is a must..........


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