|
vertical_planar
Mar 29, 2007, 8:51 AM
Post #1 of 15
(8442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 320
|
Do you have any good story about how a route got its name?
|
|
|
|
|
1080climber
Mar 29, 2007, 10:13 AM
Post #2 of 15
(8430 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2004
Posts: 46
|
was walking too a boulder on a farm in waikato, stood in cow shit on the way, my friend got the first ascent and named it cow shit toe.
it also would be hard to forget the story behind the name Dancing On A Skewer
(This post was edited by 1080climber on Mar 29, 2007, 10:15 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
superbum
Apr 8, 2007, 5:48 AM
Post #3 of 15
(8346 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
|
On the first ascent of a three pitch trad climb in Idaho I fell 20ft @ the crux and smashed into the wall w/ my hip. I lowered to the belay where my partner psyched me up to get back on that thing before I started to "really" feel the pain...so I pulled the rope and did it clean second try. We named it "Good Hip Vibes." I couldn't walk for two days after. You should climb it. Might be the 3rd or 4th best route in the country and probably the best route in the state. 
|
|
|
|
|
kr0g3r
Apr 8, 2007, 5:57 AM
Post #4 of 15
(8342 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 142
|
i was pulling on the last move of a problem i was working on, and i farted.
its name became "It's a gas"
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
May 6, 2007, 11:25 PM
Post #5 of 15
(8208 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Did a wilderness wall with my master Brutus. Due to schedles we ran out of time and left fixed ropes to our highpoint. Brutus and Em couldn't match their schedules to mine and insisted Burl and I finish the route.
So the plan evolved that Burl and I would give it a go, push the route higher. We'd either make it or not. Brutus and Em woulc come in a day later and either meet us on the decent or take up where we left off.
We did... barely; finish the route. Great adventure, with most of the upward momentum supplied by Brutus of course. He has dozenns of similar routes on his coup belt.
10 pitches, straight up, some aid, mostly free, stunning location, long summit ridge atop the wall.
At the top we planted our own summit register and the first recording included all 4 climbers (Em, Brutus, Burl and myself). We rated it Grade V, 5.10 A2 (marginally, more like A1+, now C1)
I named the route Et tu Brutus! as a play on the ancient damning question, only turned around you see?
Then Brutus in first ascent fashion and with a delicious sense of pun suggested a rename to the 'final choice'
"A2 Brutus?" (V, 5.10, C1)
Brutus and Em met Burl and I heavily laden on the descent, stumblin punch drunk in the dark through creek alders. As we struggled to the final steps to advance camp Brutus met us and handed each of us a cold beer. He and Em had a great wilderness dinner waiting for us a hundred feet beyond.
I will cherish that day for the remainder of my days.
There is now another route in that remote summit register and we still need to Free Dingus!
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
angry
May 6, 2007, 11:43 PM
Post #6 of 15
(8191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Routes without a story aren't as good as those with a story. Anything really, just a story of sorts. On my list, nothing spectacular, but a name that reflects something about the FA. Examples
New Shoes - Found this route skipping class to play with some new shoes
Cottonelle Crack - As I pulled over the lip, the air was filled with cotton floating around from the trees. Funny because it's really sharp.
Kent's Beach Party - Onsighted a friends project. It was sandy and in every way except the FFA, it was his. The name reflects that and the sand.
Cupids Love Lesson - FA 2/14/06
Sometimes I think about names of routes that I think I'd like. I've yet to use one of those names, really it's what feels appropriate just after the FA. For me, a route name is a moment in time.
(This post was edited by angry on May 6, 2007, 11:44 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
May 7, 2007, 7:16 AM
Post #7 of 15
(8148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
zadnji dnevi raja (the last days of paradise)... a really nice 7a in kotecnik, slovenia, but the crux grip seems kindof weak (thin tufa rail thingy) and once it breaks... its the end of the paradise.
JSFK (jebi se friko kranjski - f*ck off kranjski freak)... someone from kranj stole someone elses project and this was the result.
heelbreaker... FA almost broke hes heel on this one
probably could think of a few more, but these come to mind first.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
May 7, 2007, 1:08 PM
Post #8 of 15
(8118 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Lactation Corner, 5.6, one pitch, Sonora Pass. Named because on the FA I ripped my T shirt open revealing my plump breast.
Haha!
True.
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
May 7, 2007, 1:10 PM
Post #9 of 15
(8114 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
My partner of 20 years discovered a small crag reasonably close to the road up in the mountains at about 8500 feet. He recruited me to scramble up the very steep talus approach and then proceeded to lead an awesome and very srenuous 10b hand and fist crack up the center of the thing.
The crag is heart shaped when viewed from the road. The granite is stained red in many places.
He calls the formation the "Heart of the Sierra." He named his route "Blood Brothers" to honor our partnership.
Its right up there with the great Brutus routes I've been fortunate enough to enjoy....
PARTNERS!
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
dlintz
May 7, 2007, 2:17 PM
Post #10 of 15
(8077 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
|
Great stories Dingus! Any more?
d.
|
|
|
|
|
billgoat
May 7, 2007, 3:11 PM
Post #11 of 15
(8040 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 45
|
there were a few of us tryin one of those impossible mantles you know only 1 move but if ya came off it goes downhill from there and well I rolled a little so did others no one could do it but as we tried someone was watching and said whats this "circus" called so we called it "the circus" if it sticks we'll shall see
|
|
|
|
|
vertical_planar
May 7, 2007, 3:17 PM
Post #12 of 15
(8033 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 320
|
Here is mine:
Treli Giagia or "Mad granny". Named after a mad old woman who used to attack with curses and stones the guys who were attepmting to establish the route
|
|
|
|
|
mike_ok
May 7, 2007, 3:31 PM
Post #13 of 15
(8013 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2003
Posts: 345
|
At the rock gym in OKC there is (or used to be) a route named "Dental Plan," after the guy who was leading it and took a bite on the rope to get more slack to clip. He fell, with the rope clamped in his teeth, and when it came tight he... well, needed a dental plan.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
May 10, 2007, 3:03 AM
Post #14 of 15
(7905 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
OK this is the best one I've got. This is the trip in which I met Brutus of Wyde for the first time.
Cheers,
DMT
Blind Date
Brutus's blind date with Harrington reminds me of anther blind date... mine with Brutus (and Em.
We'd corresponded for a couple/three years. Brutus is the same online as he is in person, genuine, sincere, funny, smart and weird as the day is long. Perfect company for a Dingus don't you see?
So he asks me if I'm interested in a little FA he's had his eye on. Now I knew Brutus was widely traveled and climbed, even then. But just like with reading topos in a guidebook, those little squiggles don't mean a f*#king thing till you're standing at the base confronted with the reality of the thing.
So this is how I found myself driving into Lone Pine early one morning, to meet the man in the flesh as it were. We hooked up at that restaurant there that serves breakfast, the name escapes my memory.
Em was the gracious lady she's always been. Brutus was Brutus... occasionally crazy-eyed, wild hair, workaday clothes. He drank a beer for breakfast.
"hmmm, I'm not in Kansas anymore," I thought as I declined the offer of sharing a cold one with him. They had in tow a Czech lawyer named Pavel. He was going to climb with Em as Brutus and I tried a line on the side of a remote tower.
So we head up to our trailhead at Tuttle Creek - by 9 am we're at the Stonehouse and this time I accepted the offered beer (to save Brutus from having to carry it higher you see).
Tales of east side debauchery, Harding, Beckey, Rowell, ensued. Would have loved to have visited this place in its hippy days I thought.
The next few hours saw brutal bushwhacking up the creek below the incredible S. Face of Lone Pine Peak. I had no idea, till that day, how f*#king HUGE that wall is.
Photo by Brutus of Wyde, Summitpost.com
Of course Brutus is all, 'when we climbed THAT one it was....' and 'there's the line I did with so and so', these lines were like, 'Dude NO WAY I'm going UP THERE!'
The latter half of our approach the Red Baron Tower, our objective, loomed at the head of the canyon like a mute siren.
Man the worm was turning hard the next morning as we approached the route. Brutus had expected and long warned me of potential 5.11 OWs
and I had no illusions - I'd be pulling on the ropes in those sections.
Anyway, Brutus ended up leading most of the route, I got the easy first and 2nd to last pitch, he did the rest. No 5.11 OW at all, surprisingly, 5.8 and most excellent at that. Lots of chimney work, Brutus of Wyde LOVED that.
Top of the tower, sheep shit, at the TOP of the tower and all along the 3rd class descent. That big horn sheep shit, small though it was, man, the location! Its like those squiggles again, you just can't appreciate what it is big horn sheep do till you find yourself on THEIR terrain, and you're using ROPES!
Anyway, on the 3rd class scrambling down the other side of the tower we marveled at the magnificent exposure. It was easy but spectacular, that big horn descent. It required confidence but it wasn’t too dangerous.
We compared it to the route and wondered too at the moderate level it went out. It too required a lot of confidence, lots of pg ground. I think Brutus would say ALL backcountry climbing is like that.
Anyway, it was sort of a sheep in wolf’s clothing, in a manner of speaking. It was cool and all, but its bark was worse than its bite, right? With that in mind I jokingly said, yeah Brutus, like ME!
He named it The Milktoast Chimney, 5.8 III.
Photo by jlemay, Summitpost.com
Photo by poorboy44, Summitpost.com
Just like on the descent, the chimney requires confidence in one’s abilities.
Photo by jlemay, Summitpost.com
http://www.summitpost.org/...lktoast-chimney.html
Back down the canyon the next day, we start the drive out. Almost back to town, down in the valley, its getting hot. Brutus and Em are in the Cave (his old pickup) and he pulls off at a shady spot on the side of the rd next to Lone Pine Creek.
Out of a cooler comes some stout beer, Smiths maybe, and he has a bottle cap opener mounted on his tailgate. You're IN THE MONEY when you're climbing partner shows up with a bottle cap opener on the outside of his truck lol.
So standing there in the warm shade of a cottonwood tree, sipping an ice cold beer, laughing, joking, relaxing, Brutus hand-penned a topo of our new climb, bing bang boom, just like that.
Topo by Brutus of Wyde, Summitpost.com
I was blown away by the detail. And many years later now I can look back at that topo, at that climb, at that meeting, and I still marvel at it all.
Since then I've had the pleasure of climbing with Brutus and Em many many times.
I love them like a brother and a sister.
See Em down there on the fixed ropes?
Cheers to you both!
DMT
ps. Its what its all about imo! Good times, hard times, friends, laughing and sharing adventure. Well EVERY climb with Brutus and Em is an adventure. I am a rich man for having known them.
(This post was edited by dingus on May 10, 2007, 3:19 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
reno
May 15, 2007, 1:30 PM
Post #15 of 15
(7602 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
dingus wrote: OK this is the best one I've got. This is the trip in which I met Brutus of Wyde for the first time.
Awesome story. Thanks for sharing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
