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sella/dolomites in june?
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k.l.k


May 9, 2007, 10:59 AM
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sella/dolomites in june?
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I have about two weeks in June (probably around the 9th to the 24th) in the Sellajoch scheduled. I've been before, and know the bouldering and easier solos pretty well, but I'd love to have a partner for some of the longer classics like Trenkerrisse or the Messner Route on Sella 2 or other moderate long stuff. I'd be willing to do some sport as well. I seem to be climbing about VII or VII+ trad (5.10/easy11) and maybe VIII (hard 11) sport right now. I'll have a car, and some basic German and better French.

Kerwin


chrtur


May 10, 2007, 4:54 AM
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Re: [k.l.k] sella/dolomites in june? [In reply to]
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Ciao,

From the 9th to the 19th I can most probably show up for 2-3 days and we could climb something if interested? I can for sure not be around the whole two weeks.

If you stick with routes like Messner and Trenker we can problably match each other. I did Trenker last year but sure we could do it again, I give you the nice key pitch (you will discover what happens to classics Wink)

Last year I spend some days (first time in the Dolomites) in Sella and did Via dei Camini (IV), Via Freccia (III-IV), Via dei Pilastrini (IV/IV+), Via Rossi-Tomasi (IV), Via della Rampa (IV), Via Trenker (IV/V).

Looking in the guidebook now the Messner looks like a nice choice, I have also other suggestions? Give me PM if interested?

- Christian


uasunflower


May 10, 2007, 6:05 AM
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you also started the Micheluzzi one Wink


chrtur


May 10, 2007, 6:10 AM
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uasunflower wrote:
you also started the Micheluzzi one Wink

Sure with snow coming down I counted on you Wink. I still need to do it together (already planned in my schedule Tongue) with the small one (it should be nice from what I have been told).....

- C


chrtur


May 10, 2007, 6:13 AM
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Forgot UA, will go to Bourcet this weekedn and do either apache or via degli strapiombi Wink


paolo75


May 10, 2007, 7:51 AM
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chrtur wrote:
Ciao,

From the 9th to the 19th I can most probably show up for 2-3 days and we could climb something if interested? I can for sure not be around the whole two weeks.

If you stick with routes like Messner and Trenker we can problably match each other. I did Trenker last year but sure we could do it again, I give you the nice key pitch (you will discover what happens to classics Wink)

Last year I spend some days (first time in the Dolomites) in Sella and did Via dei Camini (IV), Via Freccia (III-IV), Via dei Pilastrini (IV/IV+), Via Rossi-Tomasi (IV), Via della Rampa (IV), Via Trenker (IV/V).

Looking in the guidebook now the Messner looks like a nice choice, I have also other suggestions? Give me PM if interested?

- Christian

uhmmm....the Messner early June is usually really wet and cold. Ergo you don't wanna be there if one or both of these variables are true....

Usually early june is good for the Ciavazes routes (Micheluzzi, Abram, Irma above all), the south Sass Pordoi wall (Piaz and Gross-Momoli...the famous Maria is a piece of crap IMHO), south First Sella Tower and maybe west third Sella tower.

Might be that this year something else will be climbeable (due to the warm and dry winter) but conditions of the other walls must be looked in place.

Enjoy the Dolos and kiss them by my side!
P.


chrtur


May 10, 2007, 8:00 AM
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Grazie mille Paolo75,

When are you going to the Dolos next time Cool?

With this dry winter, ehhhh was there some ice-climbing in the dolos anyway, we should be fine I suppose....

Sure one has always to look at the conditions, it is not lacking of options there Tongue

- Christian


paolo75


May 10, 2007, 8:08 AM
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chrtur wrote:
Grazie mille Paolo75,

When are you going to the Dolos next time Cool?

- Christian

I wish sooner....Unimpressed


chrtur


May 10, 2007, 8:11 AM
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BUT, do not come when we are going! I have heard about this rumor that when you go south, you always bring the bad weather...... we at least want a dry route Wink


paolo75


May 10, 2007, 8:13 AM
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ah, I forgot!
around the Gardena Pass there are also a lot of good climbs! Piz Gran Cir and Sass Ciampac are south oriented and good for an early season start.
If you go there (Piz Gran Cir) have a look at the route called "Tartarin sur les Alps", it was my goal two w.e's ago but was raining...Mad


paolo75


May 10, 2007, 8:14 AM
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chrtur wrote:
BUT, do not come when we are going! I have heard about this rumor that when you go south, you always bring the bad weather...... we at least want a dry route Wink

very funny...Mad


k.l.k


May 10, 2007, 10:10 AM
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Wonderful. I will pm you. I would guess that the crux on Trenkerrisse has been polished to a lovely shine.

Yes, I am being optimistic about the Messner. But last June it looked climbable, so I've been hoping. Unfortunately, I've heard that this winter there was a bit more snow, so maybe we won't get lucky. The Piaz on Pordoi looks great-- and thanks for the warning on the Maria route. Can you recommend the Vinatzer on Sella3 and Westwand Sella4? They both look good as well.

Looking forward to to the Dolomites again. Not to mention the schluetzer and grauvernatsch.

kerwin


paolo75


May 11, 2007, 12:05 AM
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k.l.k wrote:
Can you recommend the Vinatzer on Sella3 and Westwand Sella4? They both look good as well.

both are classic great routes. the Vinatzer is quite popular and was already ok 2 weeks ago, the 4th tower (I guess you mean the North wall, route called Malsiner-Moroder) as for the second Tower (Messner) could be wet and cold. But you cand give it a look...maybe you're lucky. Do not forget that for the 3rd and 4th tower the descent is along a steep gully. Although rappels stations are set it might be still covered with snow. But, again, due to the strange spring we had they might be alterady ok.

Ciao
P.


uasunflower


May 11, 2007, 3:34 AM
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chtur - i did do grandeM afterwards - it is very nice, the 2nd and 4th pitches are the hardest, traverses afterwards nice, 6b on traverse not hard. I still finished it in rain...i guess paolo was around Tongue

bourcet - you should go and lead that crazy 6a+ pitch than, chtur - to make up for my failings...Blush


chrtur


May 11, 2007, 4:47 AM
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uasunflower wrote:
bourcet - you should go and lead that crazy 6a+ pitch than, chtur - to make up for my failings...Blush

Already done it Tongue


paolo75


May 11, 2007, 5:14 AM
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uasunflower wrote:
chtur - i did do grandeM afterwards - it is very nice, the 2nd and 4th pitches are the hardest, traverses afterwards nice, 6b on traverse not hard. I still finished it in rain...i guess paolo was around Tongue

6b on traverse??? it's a V+ (5b...). Mad


uasunflower


May 11, 2007, 5:21 AM
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i believe there are like 3 traverse pitches with the last one being the hardest...


paolo75


May 11, 2007, 5:51 AM
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uasunflower wrote:
i believe there are like 3 traverse pitches with the last one being the hardest...

4, but none of those reach the 6b. The last one is the hardest, has one move of VI°- (5b+). Wink


uasunflower


May 11, 2007, 7:29 AM
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i guess my head is screwed up as long as italy is concerned...Crazy


k.l.k


May 11, 2007, 8:01 AM
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paolo75 wrote:
ah, I forgot!
around the Gardena Pass there are also a lot of good climbs! Piz Gran Cir and Sass Ciampac are south oriented and good for an early season start.
If you go there (Piz Gran Cir) have a look at the route called "Tartarin sur les Alps", it was my goal two w.e's ago but was raining...Mad

"Tartarin" isn't in my Bernardi guidebook. Does it go up that steep wall to the right of the Cameron (Glueck) Route? I saw a party on that last year-- it looked like a sport climb. Very cool ... plus I already know the descent!


paolo75


May 14, 2007, 12:09 AM
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k.l.k wrote:
paolo75 wrote:
ah, I forgot!
around the Gardena Pass there are also a lot of good climbs! Piz Gran Cir and Sass Ciampac are south oriented and good for an early season start.
If you go there (Piz Gran Cir) have a look at the route called "Tartarin sur les Alps", it was my goal two w.e's ago but was raining...Mad

"Tartarin" isn't in my Bernardi guidebook. Does it go up that steep wall to the right of the Cameron (Glueck) Route? I saw a party on that last year-- it looked like a sport climb. Very cool ... plus I already know the descent!

Tartarin goes to the right side of the Cameron, correct. Looking to the chimeys of the Cameron, you'll see, to the right, another line of cimneys. The Tartarin goes to the right of these second set of Cimneys, and it climbs the steep yellow wall. It's not a proper sport route but it's very well protected (botls and pitons).


k.l.k


May 28, 2007, 8:40 AM
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Ok-- I'm bumping this once before I have to leave on June 3. I have a partner for the weekend of the 16th, but will be in the Dolos until the 25th and can arrange to climb on weekdays as well. Tartarin sur les Alpes? Piaz on Pordoi? Rosengarten?

I'll have a car, so am willing to drive to the Torre or Brenta for a day or two.


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