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zealotnoob
May 14, 2007, 2:59 PM
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The newest NRG guide book shows the climb around the corner from New Yosemite to the right as Enteruptus (starting with right facing dihedral to roof), with the next one over being Four sheets to the Wind (starting with overhanging crack to bulge). However, the pics displayed in the route db for Four Sheets to the Wind are definately the route I thought to be Enteruptus... Has anyone else noted this discrepancy? Which is which?
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johnathon78
May 14, 2007, 3:14 PM
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Four sheets is the very heavely chalked up crack to roofcrack to juggy tiered roof. Theres shuts up top too. Entereptus is on of those " Oh...I see it now " routes. You dont really see it until you look for it. Its 10a. Awkward start to decent crack and juggy section. No shuts. End at roof, or, pull roof directly at 11d I think. Entereptus shouldnt be chalked at all!
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zealotnoob
May 14, 2007, 3:38 PM
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Shuts are those hooks with the spring loaded closure, which you can lay your rope over and pull it down into them, right? The route in question--which, according to your description, sounds like Four Sheets--had bolts at the top (they could have been new?). Is Enteruptus to the right of Four sheets?
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johnathon78
May 14, 2007, 3:48 PM
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Yes, Four sheets is the one with shuts. Entereptus is to the left of Four sheets (if you looking toward the rock) with no shuts. About 20 feet to the right of four sheets is another chalked up crack...its called Rapscallion's Blues, 5.10C. Good route!
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j_ung
Jun 25, 2007, 3:09 PM
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You probably have your answer by now, bu just to set the record straight for future readers...
Four Sheets to the Wind: Big dihedral, capped by roof and then out tiered roofs to a ring anchor (not technically shuts).
Enteruptus: LEFT of Four Sheets, Start in shallow dihedral, to left-facing right-lening flake. Traverse right through a big dirty, wet slot and end at the Four Sheets anchor for the 10a variation. Finish straight up through the roof for the 11d (a better TR than lead, IMO).
Enteruptus-Yew Nosemite Link-up (10+): Climb the corner and flake to the roof and then traverse left along the horizontal hand crack. Move around the arete and then finish on Yew Nosemite (not to be confused with New Yosemite, the classic 5.9). Double ropes helpful and almost mandatory. Or, build an anchor as soon as you get around the arete, lower, and then have the second clean to the anchor and lead the final fifteen feet out.
That last -- the link up -- is by far the best of the three options. If you're comfortable at 5.10, I even recommend it.
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zealotnoob
Jun 25, 2007, 3:41 PM
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Thanks J_ung
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j_ung
Jun 25, 2007, 3:53 PM
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No problemo. 
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