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griffix
May 4, 2007, 2:22 PM
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Are there fixed anchors at Devils Lake, or does one have to set them off trees and trad gear? Thanks!
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rudolphluciani
May 4, 2007, 4:56 PM
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There are no fixed anchors at DL as far as i know.
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shrug7
May 14, 2007, 2:51 PM
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Every now and then you'll see one...however....they are very, very, very old, Do not use them. If I recall bolting is illegal in Wisconsin .
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powair
May 14, 2007, 3:15 PM
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No bolts anywhere in the park. There are some OLD OLD pins scattered around but most of them have been taken out. When leading I generally clip them "it could hold" but place gear close to them if you do decide to clip them.
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griffix
May 14, 2007, 6:11 PM
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Since there are no fixed anchors; what is the preferred method of cleaning and getting off the routes at this area.
(This post was edited by griffix on May 14, 2007, 6:12 PM)
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a_guy_named_smith
May 14, 2007, 6:45 PM
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If you are leading have your second clean.
You can belay from the top and meet your second there. You can take the 4 pieces of gear you used to lead the routes from your second. you can both walk around to the bottom and start over.
Or you can lead the route, set the anchor and be lowered. Clean the route yourself. You now have a top rope. Last person up cleans the anchor.
If you setting top ropes walk. walk back to the top and clean them yourself.
Having climbed a ton at the park, I really cant think of any areas that would require more than 10 (most of them 5) minutes to get to the top of the cliff to clean your anchor.
as for anchors
you can get by with a set of nuts and hexes
and lots of webbing to sling the big ole stones at the top
(This post was edited by a_guy_named_smith on May 14, 2007, 6:52 PM)
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griffix
May 14, 2007, 6:52 PM
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Thanks that was the info I was looking for.
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nuts_r_us
May 14, 2007, 7:06 PM
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shrug7 wrote: If I recall bolting is illegal in Wisconsin .
Maybe you meant illegal at Devil's Lake. There are a few bolted areas in Wisconsin though.
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shrug7
May 14, 2007, 7:16 PM
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I heard it mentioned from a few other climbers. But I couldn't actually find anything on the WDNR site. But i'm sure it would piss off a Ranger.
Are they still maintained? i.e. would you climb/rap off them? everything I have seen up there was more rusty then my former ford station wagon 
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nuts_r_us
May 14, 2007, 7:40 PM
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shrug7 wrote: I heard it mentioned from a few other climbers. But I couldn't actually find anything on the WDNR site. But i'm sure it would piss off a Ranger. Are they still maintained? i.e. would you climb/rap off them? everything I have seen up there was more rusty then my former ford station wagon
No, I mean there is no bolting at Devil's Lake-- that is correct. But it's not a Wisconsin rule, it's a Devil's Lake rule.
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shrug7
May 14, 2007, 7:44 PM
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Huh interesting, Thanks for the info.
So..my dumb question for the day....any sport routes in WI? or just all top anchors?
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sgauss
May 14, 2007, 7:50 PM
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There's one fixed anchor of note at Devils Lake, at the top of Cleopatra's Needle.
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nuts_r_us
May 14, 2007, 8:10 PM
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shrug7 wrote: Huh interesting, Thanks for the info. So..my dumb question for the day....any sport routes in WI? or just all top anchors?
Well, after seeing where you're from, I guess I would drive south for sport if I were you!
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shrug7
May 14, 2007, 8:13 PM
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It's still 6 hours away. DL is about 2 something for me
I do try and get down to Drapers when I visit my in-laws or visit friends in Carbondale.
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zenofclimbing
May 14, 2007, 8:32 PM
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as said above, the only bolt you should trust at the lake is the anchor on top of Cleo's Needle. Anything else avoid!
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cracknut
May 4, 2009, 10:03 PM
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powair wrote: No bolts anywhere in the park.
Just to nitpick: there are two loose 1/4" bolts on flatus and a good bolt on a slab @ Old Sandstone
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