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anniemarea
Oct 21, 2006, 10:11 PM
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I am looking for and acronym for good gear placement; something that may include solid rock, surface area, direction of pull, etc...
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tradrenn
Oct 21, 2006, 10:33 PM
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bomber.
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zuegma
Oct 21, 2006, 10:47 PM
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K.I.S.S.
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oldfart
Oct 21, 2006, 11:08 PM
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Y G B S M
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anniemarea
Oct 21, 2006, 11:40 PM
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Not helpful boys, but thanks for trying.
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oldfart
Oct 21, 2006, 11:54 PM
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Maybe you could have two acronyms, a long one for easy climbs, and a shorter one for the hard ones. For the truly epic stuff, you could use a mnemonic, but that's sponsored pro level.
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cintune
Oct 22, 2006, 1:48 AM
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CYA
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dfoote07
Oct 22, 2006, 2:00 AM
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STARRS S- Size of Crack T- Type of Crack - constricting, parallel, etc.. A- Angle - of gear placement R- Rock Quality R- Removablity of the piece S- Surface area and contact It has work well for me... Derek
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blazesod
Oct 22, 2006, 3:24 AM
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Not sure about gear placement but for anchors isn't it: Ernest? E- Equalized R- Redundant (no single point of failure) N- No E- Extension (shock loading) S- Strong or Sound T- Timely
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ja1484
Oct 22, 2006, 4:21 AM
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In reply to: Not sure about gear placement but for anchors isn't it: Ernest? E- Equalized R- Redundant (no single point of failure) N- No E- Extension (shock loading) S- Strong or Sound T- Timely I prefer John Long's SRENE: Strong Redundant Equalized No Extension Timely certainly doesn't hurt, but if you need a few extra minutes to get it right, I can deal.
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chossmonkey
Oct 22, 2006, 4:45 AM
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You would likely need at least four different acronyms for the major anchor types: active, passive, natural, and fixed. They are all evaluated differently.
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jt512
Oct 23, 2006, 3:31 AM
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All good acronyms start with the acronym and work backwards. With that in mind, I nominate FATTRADBASTARD. Now, you need only relate the letters to terms dealing with gear placements. HTH (Ok, that's an exception) Jay
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richmond
Dec 10, 2006, 7:54 AM
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here's mine: BFT or BFR big fucking tree or big fucking rock
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deadhorse
Feb 2, 2007, 7:57 AM
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DESS? things to take into account Direction of fall Ease of removal Stability Strength
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mikitta
Mar 6, 2007, 10:03 PM
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Or you could DRESS it :) Direction (of force) Redundancy (of back up) Ease (of placement and removal) Stability (of placement) Strength (when considering potential stresses) God Bless, mik
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zeke_sf
Mar 6, 2007, 10:33 PM
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jt512 wrote: HTH (Ok, that's an exception) Jay What does that stand for? Hope This Holds? That's what I'm always thinking, anyway.
(This post was edited by zeke_sf on Mar 6, 2007, 10:35 PM)
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ihategrigris
Mar 6, 2007, 10:49 PM
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S - Stable: how suceptable is it to walking, moving, jiggeriing out of place? L - Load: Is the piece oriented and set correctly to handle the anticipated load. I - Intent: what is the purpose of the piece, what will it function in your overall safety system. C - Contact: How good is the surface contact, lobe contact etc. K - Clean: Is it easy/obvious for your second to clean. How likely is it to get jammed and lost. That's slick!
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rockguide
May 17, 2007, 12:06 PM
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S olid rock A ngle of pull F it E xtra forces/leverage And two more that may help. S ize of the piece (larger is generally better except for tricams) T ype (simpler is often better)
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airdo
May 17, 2007, 12:33 PM
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DR MAS D - direction of pull R - removability M - maximum surface area A - appropriate size S - solid rock quality I must also admit that I work for a rock climbing school called MAS so this is the anronym we use while teach gear placement. http://www.mtadventure.com
(This post was edited by airdo on May 17, 2007, 12:59 PM)
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dynosore
May 17, 2007, 1:45 PM
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Holds bodyweight when I rest on this 5.8 testpiece All-directional Maximum surface area in contact with rock
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tradrenn
May 18, 2007, 2:04 AM
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NOT ALIEN
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tanner
May 18, 2007, 2:24 AM
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Two important rules #1 Don't F*ck up and Die. #2 If in violation of rule #1 don't take anyone else with you.
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evanwish
Jun 1, 2007, 6:50 AM
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wow there have been some good ones mentioned (i should remember those!) the one i use for anchors, not necessarily the placements themselves, is; SERNE S=solid E=equalized R=redundent NE=non extention (if one placement blows) I hope this helps
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fulton
Jun 1, 2007, 12:07 PM
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Annie, if you have time to remember acronyms when placing gear, you should be trying harder routes.
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j_ung
Jun 1, 2007, 1:15 PM
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jt512 wrote: All good acronyms start with the acronym and work backwards. With that in mind, I nominate FATTRADBASTARD. Now, you need only relate the letters to terms dealing with gear placements. HTH (Ok, that's an exception) Jay I can't tell you how many clients have come to me with a word they wanted acronymmed. I've lost count over the years. One company wanted an acronym for the word COMPLIANCE. No lie. I refused to do it and my boss talked them down off the literary ledge.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jun 1, 2007, 1:16 PM)
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