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andy_lemon


Oct 1, 2001, 11:37 AM
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Rock Drills
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Quote:My view is that you shouldn't be using a drill at all. Just my opinion.

Then how in the hell do you put a bolt in the wall without a drill? If this is turning into a bolt no bolt conversation do it in another forum.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 1, 2001, 12:07 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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andy_lemmon wrote:
"Then how in the hell do you put a bolt in the wall without a drill?"

Bolting kits come w/ a hand drill.

rrrADAM

[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2001-10-01 17:33 ]


rck_climber


Oct 1, 2001, 1:44 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2001
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Agree with Andy. Let it go. This site is designed to be a one-stop-shop for information, once the question is posed, let's just step up to the plate with the info if you've got it.

Also, he only wants opinions on what drills you guys like, let's not jump to conclusions that he has no idea what he's doing.

I've asked for beta on ropes before, doesn't mean I don't know what I'm doing when I get it - just want the beta.

Come on guys, let's be the climbing community that we're supposed to be and share the beta, not criticize the people about what they're looking for. While I don't like the idea of self-belay, doesn't mean I should get into a debate over it with a guy looking for a device to help with it.

Just my nickle.
Mick


jds100


Oct 1, 2001, 2:15 PM
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Just want to echo the concern that the original poster, who is unidentified in the profile, maybe isn't really prepared to drill routes. The question alone raises the concern. You're right, rck, really, but if I saw a posting saying that he "was new to climbing", and "should he get a harness or just tie the rope around his waist", I'd probably say more than just a straight answer to the question there, too.

No offense is intended, but placing permanent anchors is a huge responsibility, and I think it should be taken on only after climbing sport routes and, perhaps more importantly, trad and mixed-pro (bolt-and-trad placements) routes. I strongly believe that with climbing experience, the route will 'tell' you how it should be protected, and where the stances are, etc. Establishing a new bolterd climb should not be about making a statement, and not about ego; it's a gift to other climbers. Unfortunately, people too eager to get their names in a guidebook have helped give bolted pro a bad name, by grid-bolting and over-bolting. I'm not implying that you are such a climber, but there's have no way of knowing, and it's still a fair statement in general.

I don't want to get off on a tangent that, yes, has been covered extensively on this website and others, as well as plenty of magazines and books since the sixties.

Please do the research and take the time to climb the variety of routes that are already there, including on TR. Talk to a variety of climbers in your area (local standards should be well known first) who have established bolted and mixed-pro routes, and get their varied perspectives, and advice about procedures and gear. And ask them about how to actually properly place climbing bolts, and which ones to buy, etc. Not all bolts are right for every type of rock. Know how to correct and camouflage mistakes you might make, and learn how not to make mistakes in the first place. Anything less than 24 volts will drill only a shallow useless eyesore.

I've placed bolts, and I'm not against their judicious and discriminate use. Unless you personally own the rock, there's a lot at stake when you start placeing permanent protection. Sorry for the lecture.


rck_climber


Oct 1, 2001, 3:27 PM
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All excellent points, JDS. I would have given much more information to a guy who asked the same knot-tying question as well, but this guy didn't say he was a newbie and needed the advice, only asked for suggestions. Just seems awfully rude that everyone jumps to the conclusion that since he's looking for a drill, he must not know what he's doing. That's all I'm trying to say.

Mick


kagunkie


Oct 1, 2001, 8:39 PM
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He said he needs suggestions on companys.... that can be found out at any local climbing retailer through catalogs. What is needed?
#1..Lots of climbing experience.
#2..Drill...
#3..Bolts...
#4..Hangers...
#5..Wrench...
Among other things too numerous to mention here.


jds100


Oct 2, 2001, 9:32 AM
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WiddyB7: hope we didn't put you off by assuming things that aren't fair to assume. Obviously, a lot of climbers have strong feelings about bolting. I do apologize (Mick, WiddyB7) if I took an admonishng tone; that wasn't my intention. This is a great resource for info on bolting (just be ready for some slings and arrows, too), and all the other parts of climbing. I hope you'll feel free to ask about bolting or anything else.

Okay, my drill is a DeWalt 24 volt hammer drill, (got on clearance sale from Home Depot 'cause no one was buying 'em!).

[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2001-10-02 09:32 ]


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