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clee03m
May 20, 2007, 5:09 AM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2004
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I am moving from Cleveland to Washington state and wanted to turn it into a road trip for 2 weeks in July. Unfortunately, I am also preparing for the biggest exam of my life for mid July, so was wondering if ya'll would give me recommendations on where to climb, what books to buy, etc. I'm looking for sport climbs in the 10's (will venture into 11's if very verticle or slabby). As you may have guessed, not a big fan of super powerful steep walls. I want to avoid Smith or BC since they will be my home craig, soon. I am looking at CO, UT, WY, and ID. Thanks.
OMG I'm studying too hard, I'm going out in last 2 weeks of July not June....
(This post was edited by clee03m on May 23, 2007, 3:55 PM)
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SawtoothClimber
May 20, 2007, 6:33 AM
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City of Rocks and Castle Rocks, ID. They're right next door to each other in southern Idaho. The City is more of a classic trad area but has plenty of bolted routes. Castle is an area developed more recently, thus has more bolted lines. Pick-up the guide to both from author Dave Bingham, plus they're on the way to WA!
Side note: both are of excellent quality granite
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superbum
May 20, 2007, 7:48 AM
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CITY OF ROCKS IDAHO!!!! My favorite crag....
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deane
May 20, 2007, 2:10 PM
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I have agree with everyone on City of Rocks, it sounds like what you're looking for. There are TONS of moderate sport routes including a 6 pitch BOLTED fun fest on Steinfell's Dome. Check out the latest Rock and Ice (Photo Issue) they just ran an article on the City. I went there on a trip from Vermont last summer and it was amazing. Have a good trip and good luck on the exam!
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clee03m
May 22, 2007, 3:56 AM
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Thanks, I will stop at City of Rocks.
I was wondering, should I stay at City of Rocks for the entire 2 weeks, or should I check out another site to break up the driving? Any recommendations for other states (UT, CO, WY)?
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shorty
May 23, 2007, 12:32 AM
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clee03m wrote: Thanks, I will stop at City of Rocks. I was wondering, should I stay at City of Rocks for the entire 2 weeks, or should I check out another site to break up the driving? Any recommendations for other states (UT, CO, WY)?
I can't speak for Wyoming and Utah climbing, but I'm sure many can give you ideas of great climbing in those states. I have some guidebooks for their better-known areas, but no experience at the crags.
Consider borrowing a copy of Rock & Road, or looking through mountainproject.com for ideas.
Colorado has a number of locations which you might enjoy for a day or three. Many of these crags are near the Denver / Boulder area, which means you should be able to find partners (assuming you need to line up partners) relatively easy. Sport options might include Shelf Road (could be further south than you'd like), Clear Creek Canyon, Boulder Canyon, and a few crags north of Denver & close to Rocky Mountain National Park. If you want to jump on trad routes, Eldorado Canyon and Lumpy Ridge could be on the list. If it's brutally hot when you're coming through Colorado, Monitor Rock (on the east side of Independence Pass) has some nice sport routes at higher (i.e. cooler) altitudes.
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SawtoothClimber
May 26, 2007, 7:12 PM
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In reply to: . . . or should I check out another site to break up the driving? Any recommendations for other states (UT, CO, WY)?
The climbing around Jackson, WY (5 hours to City) is good and some areas (Blacktail Butte) have awesome views of the Tetons. Climbing there is mostly tough moderates and harder. Little Cottonwood Canyon (east of Salt Lake) is also a great spot in UT. Only 3 hours drive from the City.
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clee03m
Jun 3, 2007, 12:16 AM
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Thank you guys for your replies. I have decided on the trip locations. 3 days in CO checking out Shelf Road, Clear Creek, and Boulder Canyon. Any word on where I can get a guide book on Clear Creek? How about where to go for Boulder Canyon without some epic approach?
Then 4 days at Sinks/Wild Iris (Haven't had time to look for guide books, any recommendations on guide books, where to camp, and what to climb?)
Then 4 days at City of Rocks. I did look up the article which made me really excited. Already reserved a sweet camp site. Will be ordering the guide book very soon.
Thanks, again, for everone's input. Any additional info will be greatly appreciated.
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marc801
Jun 3, 2007, 1:02 AM
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SawtoothClimber wrote: Little Cottonwood Canyon (east of Salt Lake) is also a great spot in UT. Only 3 hours drive from the City.
Other options are:
American Fork canyon - 100% sport, easy to stay in the shade, quite a bit of 5.10, lots of 5.11, and bunches of 12's.
Maple Canyon - 100% sport, curiously strange cobblestone rock, lots of options from 5.7 - 5.12.
Something to remember about City of Rocks is that the prevailing ethic is that if there's a gear placement, there probably won't be a bolt. While there are 100% bolted routes, lots of folks have been rudely surprised on some routes 'cause they didn't have a few medium cams and a small rack of nuts.
Oh, and no one goes to Jackson (ie: the Tetons) to sport climb!
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