Forums: Climbing Information: Climbing History & Trivia:
The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Climbing History & Trivia

Premier Sponsor:

 


dingus


May 31, 2007, 9:19 PM
Post #1 of 12 (4665 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17392

The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I really enjoyed this book!

"Facing the Mountain that Killed My Father" is part autobiographical and part historical. It chronicles the career of his dad, John Harlin II, Air Force fighter pilot and notable Alps climber.

Harlin II was killed on the Eiger Direct of course, his rope parted as he was jugging to their highpoint for the final push to the summit. He fell like 4000 feet.

Harlin talks about the impact on his family and what it was like to grow up. He went on to become a good rock climber and writer. I myself became aware of him through his North American guide book series. Briefly met and said hi once in the south.

But even though he'd promised his widowed mother he wouldn't do it, he was drawn to climb the mountain that killed his father.

This is the tale. Its well written and has lots of historical photos. I've heard tales and read lots of stories all around this saga and Harlin's story really tells the definitive story imo.

He is a really good writer, a pleasure to read.

If you have any interest at all in mountaineering go out and buy Harlin's The Eiger Obsession.

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on May 31, 2007, 9:23 PM)


ghoulwe


Jun 7, 2007, 9:39 PM
Post #2 of 12 (4624 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 13

Re: [dingus] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm in the middle of this book right now, Dingus. You're right, it is a good read. I had always heard only of John II's climbing school over there and, of course, his final accident. This gives a good accounting of his drive and obsession as regards its impact on family and partners. Well written.

Eric


d.vonk


Nov 30, 2007, 9:32 PM
Post #3 of 12 (4331 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 29, 2007
Posts: 35

Re: [ghoulwe] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i just saw the imax video of this 3 days ago!!! amazing.. the movie really speaks to you... Was very well done!! *applause**


endercore


Nov 30, 2007, 10:41 PM
Post #4 of 12 (4320 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 100

Re: [d.vonk] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i bought this book at a used bookstore this summer and could not put it down. It was a great read.


skinner


Dec 4, 2007, 4:10 PM
Post #5 of 12 (4214 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 1747

Re: [dingus] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

To anyone that hasn't read it yet, I'd suggest reading, "Eiger Direct" by: Peter Gillman & Dougal Haston, first. Amazing story, however it was published in 1966, so you'll have to go to the library or buy a copy online.








It seems like it's becoming somewhat of a collectors item since the release of "The Eiger Obsession". with a few copies signed by Chris Bonnington & John Harlin III going for $75. I found one signed by Bonnington for $30.

While we're on the subject of the John Harlin III and the Eiger.. Has anyone seen The Alps" yet?


jgloporto


Jan 11, 2008, 8:05 AM
Post #6 of 12 (4029 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 8, 2006
Posts: 5522

Re: [dingus] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dingus wrote:
I really enjoyed this book!

"Facing the Mountain that Killed My Father" is part autobiographical and part historical. It chronicles the career of his dad, John Harlin II, Air Force fighter pilot and notable Alps climber.

Harlin II was killed on the Eiger Direct of course, his rope parted as he was jugging to their highpoint for the final push to the summit. He fell like 4000 feet.

Harlin talks about the impact on his family and what it was like to grow up. He went on to become a good rock climber and writer. I myself became aware of him through his North American guide book series. Briefly met and said hi once in the south.

But even though he'd promised his widowed mother he wouldn't do it, he was drawn to climb the mountain that killed his father.

This is the tale. Its well written and has lots of historical photos. I've heard tales and read lots of stories all around this saga and Harlin's story really tells the definitive story imo.

He is a really good writer, a pleasure to read.

If you have any interest at all in mountaineering go out and buy Harlin's The Eiger Obsession.

DMT

I am definitely going to read this.


sed


Jan 11, 2008, 8:15 AM
Post #7 of 12 (4022 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2003
Posts: 356

Re: [dingus] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

thanks for the referral, i just bought it and look forward to the read.
S


chedontsurf


Mar 19, 2008, 9:52 AM
Post #8 of 12 (3753 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 18, 2007
Posts: 64

Re: [dingus] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i saw the movie @ a dome i-max. visually, it was amazing, but i couldn't help but notice that his friend was the one who seemed to be doing all the lead climbing.Unsure


dingus


Mar 19, 2008, 10:17 AM
Post #9 of 12 (3735 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17392

Re: [chedontsurf] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

chedontsurf wrote:
i saw the movie @ a dome i-max. visually, it was amazing, but i couldn't help but notice that his friend was the one who seemed to be doing all the lead climbing.Unsure

Paid guide. Harlin wrote about how he felt when the dude refused to let him lead on the final pitches. There were hard feelings for a while but he says he got over it.

The guide was supposedly concerned over the image of allowing a client to lead when there were cameras present.

Cheers
DMT


timstich


Mar 19, 2008, 2:15 PM
Post #10 of 12 (3696 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 6263

Re: [dingus] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dingus wrote:
chedontsurf wrote:
i saw the movie @ a dome i-max. visually, it was amazing, but i couldn't help but notice that his friend was the one who seemed to be doing all the lead climbing.Unsure

Paid guide. Harlin wrote about how he felt when the dude refused to let him lead on the final pitches. There were hard feelings for a while but he says he got over it.

The guide was supposedly concerned over the image of allowing a client to lead when there were cameras present.

Cheers
DMT

Interesting. It was probably a good idea to get a guide for that route, especially one that had done the route multiple times and knew where to go.


EvilMonkey


Mar 19, 2008, 3:07 PM
Post #11 of 12 (3677 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 19, 2008
Posts: 195

Re: [timstich] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i agree that it's smart to climb something like that w/ someone who has experience, but how can you make a film about yourself seconding an entire route? it just doesn't make a lot of sense to me. i can't blame the guide for not letting him lead the last pitch though. hell, the spoils should go to the guy who lead the whole thing. don't ya think?


dingus


Mar 19, 2008, 8:01 PM
Post #12 of 12 (3651 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17392

Re: [dingus] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You guys should read the book. Harlin explains his choices therein. One theme he related well was the emotional impact his decision to climb the mountain had on his mother.

I need to see the movie.

DMT


Forums : Climbing Information : Climbing History & Trivia

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook